saltandgranite

Guys,

I have read every thread on oil filters in the last day. I'm really not trying to start a new debate here. Just had a bit of an epic with changing my oil. Originally, I put a large capacity napa platinum (with anti drainback valve) on with mobil one oil. I figured the large capacity had to be better, right? More oil circulating.... well, no turns out this was wrong. I got a bit of clatter and went searching for the problem. Shoot, 22rs don't like large oil filters.

So, yesterday I popped it off and put a K&N HP-1002 smaller capacity on. This guy has a silicone antidrainback valve. And from what I can tell, I think the startup clatter is gone. So I popped online to see if any other 22r guys use this filter.... and came across a ton of people saying oem is the only way to go. The reason why this makes me paranoid is that I have a fear of my guides/tensioner going. I just put the top end back together of my truck (HG job, no chain job) and am currently living in fear of my chain or guides going bad. Any unnecessary fluctuation in oil pressure is not welcomed on my watch.

My problem is that it is all starting to look like a wives tale.... hard to tell if I am being paranoid about the fact I have the K&N on there. I've heard that only the toyota filter has the "check valve" so this must be bought. Then I've read that a "check valve" is just another name for "antidrainback valve" which every filter has...

And then I read this preaching about why any old antidrainback valve wont work on Bob Is The Oil Guy:

"The filter on these engines is mounted with the threads lower than the endcap, not much but slightly. This will allow the filter to drain back if the drainback valve doesn't work properly.

When the truck is started the un-tensioned timing chain whips around untill the filter fills with oil and pressurizes the tensioner.

In the meantime the timing chain is flying around in the timing cover, this breaks the runners. Once the runners break the chain wont tighten and will eat through the aluminum cover or allow the chain to jump which bends valves."

So tomorrow I'm thinking about driving to the dealer and buying an oem and whipping my brand new K&N in the trash. This will be my third oil filter in 200 miles. Or am I being paranoid?

Is it REALLY once and for all THAT important to run the oem due to this is the only filter that will provide the correct flowback or non flowback as it were and also the correct oil pressure for our fragile chain, guides and tensioner?
Like if I want my chain to last I should get up and go to the dealer tomorrow and get a filter? Or chill out, let the K&N sit there until next oil change and then go to oem. Or I'm a luney. Any filter with an antidrainback and the correct size will be fine.... tons of people just go to quicky lube and their rigs are just fine. Or are these the people that have their guides break?? AAAAAAhhhhh.

rworegon

Probably a bit paranoid, IMHO.
Toyota filters work great and are cheap price-wise.

BigBluePile

iTrader: (3)

I bought a grip of oem filters from Toyota parts east

xylicon

I always use OEM Toyota oil filters, I too order from ToyotaPartsEast or ToyotaPartsZone in bulk.

saltandgranite

Thanks guys. My main question is, if you had a brand new K&N Filter on your rig right now would you throw it away and put an oem on? Is it THAT crucial to our guides and tensioners?

daved5150

iTrader: (1)

I'm into overkill also, but you are being a little looney. I currently run the Purolator Pure One filter #PL20195 - it's the longer version of the stock size one #PL10241. I also have used FilterMags on my vehicles for at least thirteen years now. Check them out here and buy them here. Another good thing to check out is thread here on filters. As soon as I get a bigger filter mag, when my current oil needs to be changed, I am going with a even bigger filter; #PL30001. Look on that thread link...there's a ton of info there.

I bought my 88 4Runner in 2006 and changed the oil at 159K miles and used K&N #HP1002 filter, the short one. I then put on almost 30k miles and saw a picture of a 22re in LC Engineering's catalog with a long K&N filter on it. I started using K&N #HP2009, the longer version. I also used Mobil1's long filter #M1-209 and Bosch #D3421 long filter. I put just over 225k miles on her and had to park it because burning/loosing way to much coolant===>head gasket...No coolant in the oil though. She also badly needs a new chain with metal guides. With my 94, I've used those filters along with Royal Purple's long filter #20-400. Now I've started to use the Purolator's after reading the thread that I linked here.

Bottom line, I'm not knocking the OEM filters. Lots of guys used them here and have great results. I just like to use the name brand brand stuff I find at Advance Auto where they take care of me. This may sound crazy, but the reason how I found the longer versions of the filters was I saw that the filters had a set of letters on the plate where the holes are. I'm pretty sure just the K&N's and Mobil1's did: it was "AA." Don't think the Bosch's or the Royal Purples did.

The reason I remember all this stuff is that I keep a small notebook with notes on maintenance. This is where I got all this stuff - for future reference. If you are worried about the chain and guides, check and/or replace. But chill out, from what I've read and experienced, the K&N's are pretty good.

OK, I'm done....not known to write small replies...

stanprophet

I run Purolator Pure One filters, they work fine. Many aftermarkets have the antidrainback valve. Usually your cheap filters will not have it. The OEM filters use to not have the valve, so I cannot say if they do now or not.

You can tell a difference between one with a valve and one without. The main purpose is reduce wear. Cold statup bearing material does not have a film of oil to ride on. When engine clearances are correct, and oil pressure is correct, there is no wear going on with the lower end bearings, since the main and rods are ridding on a film of oil.

Low oil Pressure = Bearing Wear
Bearing Wear = Low oil Pressure

So it becomes a vicious cycle. The ADV allows quicker oil pressure, and oil faster to the top end on the motor.

If you stick with a high quality, no gimmicks oil filter you are fine. Toyota engineered it, their filters will work fine. Also some of the better aftermarkets work great. Fram Tough Guard, Purolator Pure One. I stay away from over sized filters, just not really a need for them, if proper maintenance is followed, the extra oil capacity an filter element is not needed.

YoungFeller

My 22-RE usually has a hard time building oil pressure at start, so I've been paying attention to the anti-drainback issue as well and experimenting with different oil viscosities.

The Toyota filters are known for having a good anti-drainback but others are as well, such as the Wix/Napa Gold filters, and I believe K&N as well.

You can usually tell by listening (and watching the oil light) how fast the engine is developing oil pressure. If it happens pretty quickly with the existing filter, I wouldn't throw it away. Only if you can tell it's taking longer than comfortable.

I'm in a bit of a viscosity trap with mine...too thin and it consumes too much oil--too thick and it takes too long to build pressure (thick oil should increase oil pressure, I know). I've finally settled on the 15W-40 diesel stuff. It seems to be thick enough to keep the consumption down but still get circulating well at startup.