acs

Hi,

First off, thanks to those who've posted how to rebuild the 22R carb and adjusting it.

I think I f'd up the throttle linkage assembly. When I push the accelerator, the throttle plate in the air horn closes and the truck wants to stall out. When I hold the accelerator long enough, it'll bog through it and rev high for me. Did I reinstall the lever the wrong way? Looking at it, I don't see any other options for installation...

Any ideas?

Thanks,
-acs

acs

slimbobaggins

Subbing to this now. Don't have any suggestions at the moment, but if I can get my carb back on the truck this weekend and try to get it tuned, I might be able to help you out. This is my first Yota so I don't have any prior experience with it.

slimbobaggins

Just went and grabbed my carb out of the garage, mine does the same thing when working the linkage (the same plate closes). I'm not going to pretend to know anything about carbs, but my understanding is that that plate is supposed to close on hard acceleration to increase the AFR. Perhaps whatever pump is supposed to provide extra fuel isn't doing it?

Did you completely disassembly the carb, and replace all the diaphragms?

Hopefully someone else jumps in here, and I can learn something too.

slimbobaggins

If you completely disassembled it, perhaps you forgot a spring somewhere that isn't pushing a valve open for more fuel as vacuum decreases?

dark_fairytales

the vacuum of the engine opens the secondary, so you have something else that is wrong. From the vid., I can not see what else my be causing the issue.

acs

Thanks for your replies.

I did tear down the entire carb. I followed along with the FSM to reassemble and I didn't have any left over parts for the diaphragms...

acs

Thanks for that piece of info. I didn't realize the secondary was vacuum operated.

Is it the AAP that opens the secondary? I haven't checked if it has gas in the line, but I will when I get home today.

hiluxhack

Accelerator pump is not working. Check it's linkage, if ok, pull the top and check the spring under the pump and if that's ok, you might have forgotten the check ball that keeps fuel from back washing. All are easy to overlook. If all else fails, get a weber. Good luck

acs

The accelerator pump linkage appears to be working properly, but I still have to disassemble it to make sure it's put together properly.

I advanced the timing and the stalling out has improved 75-80%.

By advancing the timing, would I be masking other potential problems?

Thanks again!

hiluxhack

I wouldn't think so. If advancing the ignition timing helped, then it must have been part or most of the problem. When it's too low, the engine isn't burning enough fuel. Good work. The pump is probably ok. If the spring or check ball were gone, there would be a big flat spot on initial acceleration.

slimbobaggins

You bring up a good point with this comment.

I used the GP Sorensen rebuild kit for my carb, which looks like it covers multiple years and has a lot of extra parts in it.

My truck & carb are an '87 but I couldn't find the FSM for an '87 so I used the '85 FSM that I could find online and followed that to tear the carb down, clean, and replace stuff.

Tearing it all the way down per the FSM, I never got to the point where I was removing any check balls from the carb.

The only other time that I've rebuilt an automobile carb, which was a long time ago, I do remember having to replace some check balls.

Did I not tear the carb down "far enough"? I did follow the FSM... took all the diaphragms off, took the jets out, there were a couple metal inserts left in the carb but they looked pressed in and with no obvious way to get them out, and the FSM didn't mention them.

Am I missing something here? If so, I'd like to catch it before I put the carb back on the truck. Replacing the gaskets on the intake manifold today and all the vacuum lines, and then reinstalling the carb is the next step.

hiluxhack

The check ball for the accelerator pump is located under the pump. It isn't always necessary to replace it since it's stainless steel, but it is best to remove it for soaking the carb. or, at least spray out the passages and then blow compressed air through them. If you didn't turn the carb. upside down with the pump out, it didn't fall out. It's probably not going to make any difference anyway unless you had acc. pump problems to start with. It's your call. Best of luck.