22R break-in questions
06-17-2010, 01:03 PM
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
22R break-in questions
Hows it going? I just wanted to know if any of you guys had any tips for breaking-in a rebuilt 22R. I have heard everything from "give it in the pipes" to "treat it like a newborn baby". What do you guys think? Tomorrow I will be driving the truck from Albuquerque NM(where the engine was installed) back to Taos NM, which is about 132 miles of mountainous driving. Is that going to be good or bad for my new engine? Thanks in advance!
06-17-2010, 01:55 PM
#3
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Drive it like you stole it.
Your not going to hurt it.
A search on google is easy-
Recommended Break-In Procedure for Rebuilt Engines
Protect the investment you have in your engine. Take the time to read and follow these recommendations.
Before starting your rebuilt engine for the first time, be sure it is pressure lubricated. This means priming the oil pump with oil shaft rod or turn engine over with starter without spark plugs.
NEVER add cold water to the colling system while the engine is running. The engine should be allowed to run at normal operating temperature. If not, shut down and wait 30 minutes, then restart.
Start the engine and run at a fast idle, approximately 1500 RPM, and check oil pressure. Run the engine for 30 minutes even though the collant may rise to operating temperature in a few minutes. Adjust carburetor and ignition timing. If the coolant should 'boil over,' stop engine and allow to cool down for 30 minutes, then start again and add water, and then proceed as above.
Stop the engine and re-torque head and manifold to engine manufacturer's specifications in proper sequence. Readjust tappets if necessary. NOTE: look for any leaks, upper and lower.
Start engine again and make a test run on the road at 30 mph in 'drive' range or select proper gears for standard transmission. Periodically open throttle and accelerate to 50 mph and decelerate rapidly. Repeat this procedure at least 10 times. For a large truck or industrial engine, accelerate in intermediate gears as above. NOTE: Applying light loads to the engine for short periods of time causes increased ring pressure against the cylinder walls and helps to seat the rings. This is especially important because you are 'breaking-in- the engine with heavy duty oils. The rapid deceleration increases vacuum and gives extra lubrication to the pistons and ring assemblies, also helps lubricate the whole engine.
ENGINE OR VEHICLE SERVICE RECOMMENDATIONS FOR PASSENGER CARS: Drive normally but not at continuous speeds for the first 500 to 1000 miles. Occasional fluctuation of speed followed by deceleration during this first period of break-in is beneficial. Then make sure to change oil and filter on or before the first 1000 miles. Note 30 weight for break-in.
ENGINE OR VEHICLE SERVICE RECOMMENDATIONS FOR TRUCKS: Run with light loads from 500 miles and avoid 'lugging.' Occasional acceleration and deceleration in proper gear during this break-in period is advisable. Then change the oil and filter, 30 weight.
ENGINE OR VEHICLE SERVICE RECOMMENDATIONS FOR INDUSTRIAL ENGINES: Follow above instructions and operate under partial loads for several hours. Change oil and filter after approximately 10 to 20 hours of operation.
After 1,000 miles of service, re-torque cylinder heads and manifolds to proper specifications. Re-adjust tappets. We suggest that this be done again at 6,000 miles. We know this means extra work, but it assures long and satisfactory engine performance.
Your not going to hurt it.
A search on google is easy-
Recommended Break-In Procedure for Rebuilt Engines
Protect the investment you have in your engine. Take the time to read and follow these recommendations.
Before starting your rebuilt engine for the first time, be sure it is pressure lubricated. This means priming the oil pump with oil shaft rod or turn engine over with starter without spark plugs.
NEVER add cold water to the colling system while the engine is running. The engine should be allowed to run at normal operating temperature. If not, shut down and wait 30 minutes, then restart.
Start the engine and run at a fast idle, approximately 1500 RPM, and check oil pressure. Run the engine for 30 minutes even though the collant may rise to operating temperature in a few minutes. Adjust carburetor and ignition timing. If the coolant should 'boil over,' stop engine and allow to cool down for 30 minutes, then start again and add water, and then proceed as above.
Stop the engine and re-torque head and manifold to engine manufacturer's specifications in proper sequence. Readjust tappets if necessary. NOTE: look for any leaks, upper and lower.
Start engine again and make a test run on the road at 30 mph in 'drive' range or select proper gears for standard transmission. Periodically open throttle and accelerate to 50 mph and decelerate rapidly. Repeat this procedure at least 10 times. For a large truck or industrial engine, accelerate in intermediate gears as above. NOTE: Applying light loads to the engine for short periods of time causes increased ring pressure against the cylinder walls and helps to seat the rings. This is especially important because you are 'breaking-in- the engine with heavy duty oils. The rapid deceleration increases vacuum and gives extra lubrication to the pistons and ring assemblies, also helps lubricate the whole engine.
ENGINE OR VEHICLE SERVICE RECOMMENDATIONS FOR PASSENGER CARS: Drive normally but not at continuous speeds for the first 500 to 1000 miles. Occasional fluctuation of speed followed by deceleration during this first period of break-in is beneficial. Then make sure to change oil and filter on or before the first 1000 miles. Note 30 weight for break-in.
ENGINE OR VEHICLE SERVICE RECOMMENDATIONS FOR TRUCKS: Run with light loads from 500 miles and avoid 'lugging.' Occasional acceleration and deceleration in proper gear during this break-in period is advisable. Then change the oil and filter, 30 weight.
ENGINE OR VEHICLE SERVICE RECOMMENDATIONS FOR INDUSTRIAL ENGINES: Follow above instructions and operate under partial loads for several hours. Change oil and filter after approximately 10 to 20 hours of operation.
After 1,000 miles of service, re-torque cylinder heads and manifolds to proper specifications. Re-adjust tappets. We suggest that this be done again at 6,000 miles. We know this means extra work, but it assures long and satisfactory engine performance.
Last edited by flecker; 06-17-2010 at 02:07 PM.
06-17-2010, 02:07 PM
#4
Registered User
New cam? If so you need constant high oil pressure for 20 minutes for a cam break in. around 2000 RPMs to make sure the cam is oiled 100%
Otherwise, stick your foot in it. Let it rev out in 2nd gear, then let go of the gas and let the engine decel back to idle. Continue this process of engine braking and high revs. I say change oil after the initial break in, then again after 100, then again after 500. The 100 mile mark probably isnt critical, but oils cheap, engines arent. Definitely do it immediately after break in though, flush out assembly lube and any metal.
Otherwise, stick your foot in it. Let it rev out in 2nd gear, then let go of the gas and let the engine decel back to idle. Continue this process of engine braking and high revs. I say change oil after the initial break in, then again after 100, then again after 500. The 100 mile mark probably isnt critical, but oils cheap, engines arent. Definitely do it immediately after break in though, flush out assembly lube and any metal.
06-17-2010, 03:19 PM
#5
Registered User
Depends how your motor is built, but if you have the proper cam and valvetrain, run the damn thing to redline!
In all seriousness, drive the thing. We have plenty of turbo'd & H/C motors that we've built and each case we treat them like a 70hp Samurai..foot to the floor to move. Change the oil @ 100 miles, 500 miles, & 2,000.
In all seriousness, drive the thing. We have plenty of turbo'd & H/C motors that we've built and each case we treat them like a 70hp Samurai..foot to the floor to move. Change the oil @ 100 miles, 500 miles, & 2,000.
06-17-2010, 03:35 PM
#6
Registered User
Thread Starter
Drive it like you stole it.
Your not going to hurt it.
A search on google is easy-
Recommended Break-In Procedure for Rebuilt Engines
Protect the investment you have in your engine. Take the time to read and follow these recommendations.
Before starting your rebuilt engine for the first time, be sure it is pressure lubricated. This means priming the oil pump with oil shaft rod or turn engine over with starter without spark plugs.
NEVER add cold water to the colling system while the engine is running. The engine should be allowed to run at normal operating temperature. If not, shut down and wait 30 minutes, then restart.
Start the engine and run at a fast idle, approximately 1500 RPM, and check oil pressure. Run the engine for 30 minutes even though the collant may rise to operating temperature in a few minutes. Adjust carburetor and ignition timing. If the coolant should 'boil over,' stop engine and allow to cool down for 30 minutes, then start again and add water, and then proceed as above.
Stop the engine and re-torque head and manifold to engine manufacturer's specifications in proper sequence. Readjust tappets if necessary. NOTE: look for any leaks, upper and lower.
Start engine again and make a test run on the road at 30 miles per hour in 'drive' range or select proper gears for standard transmission. Periodically open throttle and accelerate to 50 miles per hour and decelerate rapidly. Repeat this procedure at least 10 times. For a large truck or industrial engine, accelerate in intermediate gears as above. NOTE: Applying light loads to the engine for short periods of time causes increased ring pressure against the cylinder walls and helps to seat the rings. This is especially important because you are 'breaking-in- the engine with heavy duty oils. The rapid deceleration increases vacuum and gives extra lubrication to the pistons and ring assemblies, also helps lubricate the whole engine.
ENGINE OR VEHICLE SERVICE RECOMMENDATIONS FOR PASSENGER CARS: Drive normally but not at continuous speeds for the first 500 to 1000 miles. Occasional fluctuation of speed followed by deceleration during this first period of break-in is beneficial. Then make sure to change oil and filter on or before the first 1000 miles. Note 30 weight for break-in.
ENGINE OR VEHICLE SERVICE RECOMMENDATIONS FOR TRUCKS: Run with light loads from 500 miles and avoid 'lugging.' Occasional acceleration and deceleration in proper gear during this break-in period is advisable. Then change the oil and filter, 30 weight.
ENGINE OR VEHICLE SERVICE RECOMMENDATIONS FOR INDUSTRIAL ENGINES: Follow above instructions and operate under partial loads for several hours. Change oil and filter after approximately 10 to 20 hours of operation.
After 1,000 miles of service, re-torque cylinder heads and manifolds to proper specifications. Re-adjust tappets. We suggest that this be done again at 6,000 miles. We know this means extra work, but it assures long and satisfactory engine performance.
Your not going to hurt it.
A search on google is easy-
Recommended Break-In Procedure for Rebuilt Engines
Protect the investment you have in your engine. Take the time to read and follow these recommendations.
Before starting your rebuilt engine for the first time, be sure it is pressure lubricated. This means priming the oil pump with oil shaft rod or turn engine over with starter without spark plugs.
NEVER add cold water to the colling system while the engine is running. The engine should be allowed to run at normal operating temperature. If not, shut down and wait 30 minutes, then restart.
Start the engine and run at a fast idle, approximately 1500 RPM, and check oil pressure. Run the engine for 30 minutes even though the collant may rise to operating temperature in a few minutes. Adjust carburetor and ignition timing. If the coolant should 'boil over,' stop engine and allow to cool down for 30 minutes, then start again and add water, and then proceed as above.
Stop the engine and re-torque head and manifold to engine manufacturer's specifications in proper sequence. Readjust tappets if necessary. NOTE: look for any leaks, upper and lower.
Start engine again and make a test run on the road at 30 miles per hour in 'drive' range or select proper gears for standard transmission. Periodically open throttle and accelerate to 50 miles per hour and decelerate rapidly. Repeat this procedure at least 10 times. For a large truck or industrial engine, accelerate in intermediate gears as above. NOTE: Applying light loads to the engine for short periods of time causes increased ring pressure against the cylinder walls and helps to seat the rings. This is especially important because you are 'breaking-in- the engine with heavy duty oils. The rapid deceleration increases vacuum and gives extra lubrication to the pistons and ring assemblies, also helps lubricate the whole engine.
ENGINE OR VEHICLE SERVICE RECOMMENDATIONS FOR PASSENGER CARS: Drive normally but not at continuous speeds for the first 500 to 1000 miles. Occasional fluctuation of speed followed by deceleration during this first period of break-in is beneficial. Then make sure to change oil and filter on or before the first 1000 miles. Note 30 weight for break-in.
ENGINE OR VEHICLE SERVICE RECOMMENDATIONS FOR TRUCKS: Run with light loads from 500 miles and avoid 'lugging.' Occasional acceleration and deceleration in proper gear during this break-in period is advisable. Then change the oil and filter, 30 weight.
ENGINE OR VEHICLE SERVICE RECOMMENDATIONS FOR INDUSTRIAL ENGINES: Follow above instructions and operate under partial loads for several hours. Change oil and filter after approximately 10 to 20 hours of operation.
After 1,000 miles of service, re-torque cylinder heads and manifolds to proper specifications. Re-adjust tappets. We suggest that this be done again at 6,000 miles. We know this means extra work, but it assures long and satisfactory engine performance.
Last edited by yotaman90; 06-17-2010 at 03:47 PM.
06-17-2010, 03:44 PM
#7
Registered User
Thread Starter
New cam? If so you need constant high oil pressure for 20 minutes for a cam break in. around 2000 RPMs to make sure the cam is oiled 100%
Otherwise, stick your foot in it. Let it rev out in 2nd gear, then let go of the gas and let the engine decel back to idle. Continue this process of engine braking and high revs. I say change oil after the initial break in, then again after 100, then again after 500. The 100 mile mark probably isnt critical, but oils cheap, engines arent. Definitely do it immediately after break in though, flush out assembly lube and any metal.
Otherwise, stick your foot in it. Let it rev out in 2nd gear, then let go of the gas and let the engine decel back to idle. Continue this process of engine braking and high revs. I say change oil after the initial break in, then again after 100, then again after 500. The 100 mile mark probably isnt critical, but oils cheap, engines arent. Definitely do it immediately after break in though, flush out assembly lube and any metal.
Depends how your motor is built, but if you have the proper cam and valvetrain, run the damn thing to redline!
In all seriousness, drive the thing. We have plenty of turbo'd & H/C motors that we've built and each case we treat them like a 70hp Samurai..foot to the floor to move. Change the oil @ 100 miles, 500 miles, & 2,000.
In all seriousness, drive the thing. We have plenty of turbo'd & H/C motors that we've built and each case we treat them like a 70hp Samurai..foot to the floor to move. Change the oil @ 100 miles, 500 miles, & 2,000.
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06-17-2010, 04:02 PM
#9
Registered User
The rings will seat 90% of the way after 20 minutes.
Full break in can take up to 500 miles.
And as stated above, retorque your head bolts and adjust your valves after initial break in.
I recommend a standard 30W Non-Detergent for break in. (First initial run only)
You dont necessarily want all those additives that regular oil has when your seating rings and such
Full break in can take up to 500 miles.
And as stated above, retorque your head bolts and adjust your valves after initial break in.
I recommend a standard 30W Non-Detergent for break in. (First initial run only)
You dont necessarily want all those additives that regular oil has when your seating rings and such
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