22r 32/36 run on issue?
#1
22r 32/36 run on issue?
This thing is driving me nuts I have the timing set at factory standard of 0degrees at tdc when you shut the truck off it has a slight diesling effect , the run on is worse if you retard the timing past zero or if you advance past around 8 degrees btdc at idle the vacuum port on the front of the dizzy is capped and the ported nipple on the weber is capped I have one line running from the vacuum port closes to the cap all the way to the back nipple on the pass side of the carb ..any idea why it's doing this ?
#2
Registered User
This thing is driving me nuts I have the timing set at factory standard of 0degrees at tdc when you shut the truck off it has a slight diesling effect , the run on is worse if you retard the timing past zero or if you advance past around 8 degrees btdc at idle the vacuum port on the front of the dizzy is capped and the ported nipple on the weber is capped I have one line running from the vacuum port closes to the cap all the way to the back nipple on the pass side of the carb ..any idea why it's doing this ?
You capped 1 of the ports on the distributor, used the other to hook up vacuum at the base of the carb? If that's the case, you're pulling advance at idle, like mine was set up on my '83. Plenty of people told me that was wrong, but it ran better that way than with the advance hooked up to ported vacuum.
Either way, I doubt it's the cause of your dieseling. Do you have the anti-diesel solenoid on your carb? It'd be a second electrical connection if you have a DGEV with the electric choke. If you do have it, and it's hooked up, then maybe you should test it to make sure it's functioning. Have someone else just turn the key to on while you listen for a click from the solenoid. If it's hooked up and working, then you need to start changing some jets more than likely. It's really not hard, and I'll bet even if you get it stop dieseling without changing the jets, you probably should anyways cause they load all the DGEV's with the same jets, no matter the application or kit they're made for.
#6
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#7
I will let you know soon as I get home, also wtf is goin on with the choke? If I unplug the electric connection to it .. It still works meaning that if I unplug it and start the truck it high idles till I blip the throttle then it comes down? Also what are both vaccum nipples on the pass side of carb for ?
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#8
Ok I set screw 2 turns out I currently have it close to 2 turns out it smooths out there for the most part between 1 3/4 and 2 turns . Idle is another story I don't have a tach but it's prolly around 700rpm it's only turned in a quarter of a turn ( I start counting as soon as the screw touches the arm) it will idle with the screw backed out all the way but sounds like a tractor . If I turn it in any more it's diesel city ok every shut down. Timing is at 0 if I go up to 5 it will diesel .. Any more opinions? I ordered a ˟˟˟˟ down solenoid by the way
#9
Registered User
Well, speed screw only being in a 1/4 turn sounds suspiciously like a vacuum leak to me. It shouldn't idle at all choked off that much. You have the throttle bracket semi loose on the throttle shaft, right? Just thinking of the throttle sticking some and that's why you only have 1/4 turn of speed screw in.
On the vacuum ports: vacuum advance or something like that, most likely. These are pretty universal carbs
I'd take a real good look for vacuum leaks and then start thinking about jetting the carb properly, as they don't ship jetted right for a 22r, no matter who you buy it from and what they say.
Edit: once you're certain there's no vacuum leaks and your throttle isn't binding, check this thread out for a proper setup
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f114...tuning-261129/
On the vacuum ports: vacuum advance or something like that, most likely. These are pretty universal carbs
I'd take a real good look for vacuum leaks and then start thinking about jetting the carb properly, as they don't ship jetted right for a 22r, no matter who you buy it from and what they say.
Edit: once you're certain there's no vacuum leaks and your throttle isn't binding, check this thread out for a proper setup
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f114...tuning-261129/
Last edited by JonnyBoy; 07-31-2014 at 01:36 PM.
#10
Ok it's running good found out fuse for choke was blown so it was only running choked. So now another question.. I have the idle set and the truck runs good at 2turns out of the mixture screw but when you go from idle to snapping the throttle it has a bog. What could that be from ?
#11
It's too lean. I had the same issue until I bought one of these:
https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pr...asp?RecID=4145
The pump jet you have is only a single. This is a dual. You also need to drill it out a little: http://bradleyrestoration.com/techni..._pinprick.html
I did that and mine takes gas with NO hiccup whatsoever.
https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pr...asp?RecID=4145
The pump jet you have is only a single. This is a dual. You also need to drill it out a little: http://bradleyrestoration.com/techni..._pinprick.html
I did that and mine takes gas with NO hiccup whatsoever.
Ok it's running good found out fuse for choke was blown so it was only running choked. So now another question.. I have the idle set and the truck runs good at 2turns out of the mixture screw but when you go from idle to snapping the throttle it has a bog. What could that be from ?
Last edited by Thomas Reynolds; 08-26-2014 at 07:25 AM.
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