2.5" or 3" lift kit
#1
2.5" or 3" lift kit
My son has a 94 4runner and recently rolled his old 4runner which had a 4" lift with 35's. He doesn't want to put the old Pro Comp 4" lift kit on his new 4runner. Wondering what is the best way to lift it either 2.5" or 3" suspension lift.....don't want to do a body lift at all.
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#12
[QUOTE=angrybob;51910814]Just curious as to why this thought.[/QUOTE
His rolled his first 4runner and we want to lift the new one only 2.5" or 3" and are asking the best way to achieve this.
His rolled his first 4runner and we want to lift the new one only 2.5" or 3" and are asking the best way to achieve this.
#13
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Do not discount a mild body lift in combination with other methods of lifting. I went with a 1" body lift, 1.5" BJ spacers, and slightly cranked heavier t-bars (installed for extra winch and bumper weight) and fit 33's. I did fold back the pinch welds in the rear part if the inner fender too. Rear was 2" Downey leafs and a Deaver mini-leaf pack to replace the overload leaf.
Read this: http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/BodyLiftKit.shtml Quote from the article: "Lift as much as needed, but as little as possible"
Its very informative about lifts...especially if you've just rolled Yes it will take a little time, but you will probably learn a lot about lifts as I did.
Read this: http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/BodyLiftKit.shtml Quote from the article: "Lift as much as needed, but as little as possible"
Its very informative about lifts...especially if you've just rolled Yes it will take a little time, but you will probably learn a lot about lifts as I did.
Last edited by angrybob; 05-01-2012 at 05:19 PM.
#18
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Welcome to YT. Definitely take a look in the 4runner lift guide thread sticky - plenty of IFS lift info in there.
Are you keeping the 35s on this rig? If so, that will make a difference - mainly with clearing the firewall w/o going to 3.5-4" lift.
BJ spacers with a t-bar crank will get you in the 2-2.5" range. lift any higher with tbars and the CV geometry will be bad - bad for CVs durability, bad for very little down-travel, and bad for the stiff ride. You might be able to squeeze a little more lift in there if you do a diff-drop, but then you can't run your typical IFS brace (which is good if you wanna wheel). You could probably fit those 35s on this setup as long as you're willing to do some work on the firewall/pinch weld area of the cab. Alternative to cutting/BFH might be a 1" body lift - I decided to go with the cutoff wheel and BFH instead of more lift when I put on my 33s.
Are you keeping the 35s on this rig? If so, that will make a difference - mainly with clearing the firewall w/o going to 3.5-4" lift.
BJ spacers with a t-bar crank will get you in the 2-2.5" range. lift any higher with tbars and the CV geometry will be bad - bad for CVs durability, bad for very little down-travel, and bad for the stiff ride. You might be able to squeeze a little more lift in there if you do a diff-drop, but then you can't run your typical IFS brace (which is good if you wanna wheel). You could probably fit those 35s on this setup as long as you're willing to do some work on the firewall/pinch weld area of the cab. Alternative to cutting/BFH might be a 1" body lift - I decided to go with the cutoff wheel and BFH instead of more lift when I put on my 33s.
#19
Im not keeping the 35s. I have a 91 4 runner that Im putting a 4 inch lift with 33s.my son is the one we've been talking about. He just wants a small lift, but didn't want to spend alot of money. So thats y i ask the? . Thanks for everybodys input.
#20
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You can fit 33x12.5's on 15x10 3.75" backspaced wheels with no lift.
All you need to do is cut a bit off the front bumper and valence, then hammer the pinch weld.
Save you money, you don't need a lift.
Go with a 3" body lift if you absolutely want a lift but you'll still need to do the mods mentioned above (just to a lesser extent). Reason for the body lift, cheap and easy to instal. Doesn't mess with your suspension (i.e. balljoint spacers and 4" suspension lift).
All you need to do is cut a bit off the front bumper and valence, then hammer the pinch weld.
Save you money, you don't need a lift.
Go with a 3" body lift if you absolutely want a lift but you'll still need to do the mods mentioned above (just to a lesser extent). Reason for the body lift, cheap and easy to instal. Doesn't mess with your suspension (i.e. balljoint spacers and 4" suspension lift).
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