helidriver

.....I'm 99% sure that I put the head on and the timing chain together with the number one piston at TDC (high as it can go in the block before going back down). But the book says that at TDC on compression stroke certain valves are suppose to be tight and others are suppose to be loose but the ones on my old engine at TDC and the new rebuilt one at TDC arent the same as described.

How can I ensure I put it together right? I already turned them both 180 and the valves still don't match the book? I do have Engbldr cams in both, would that make the valve different? Is it because it's brand newly rebuilt that the valve are open/closed different?

Is there a specific procedure for a "first valve adjustment"? Thanks.

Gizler00

iTrader: (1)

TDC on the compression stroke of #1 cyl, valves should be closed on #1. If not, double check that you are on #1 and not another cyl. Also make sure that the rotor is pointing at the #1 plug on the cap.

The valve clearances are different from stock to engnbldr. I believe the 268 cam is .007 and .009, where stock is .008 and .012

helidriver

Yeah, the front most cylinder should be all the way up and the mark on the main pully on zero. The book says that these valves should be loose and these other valves should be tight and that's how you know its top center on compression. But none of mine on the old engine that ran before I took it out, or the new one I just built have the same tight/loose valves as the book describes. I moved the old distributer from the old at TDC to the new but the teeth didn't line up perfect the first time the distributer rotated a bit. So I can't rely on that, I pulled it out and put it back until it lined up with the number 1 plug by the looks of it. I don't know if there is another more precise way of doing it.

I guess bottom line is: I'm nervous that some how I didn't put the timing chain on with the engine at TDC at the compression. I don't know how that may have happened but I'm just trying to cover all bases. I was 100% confident on everything until the valves aren't tight/loose (open/closed) the same way the book describes TDC is. Is there anyway to difinitively be positive that with the pulley on 0 the block is chained to the cam perfectly? Without taking the timing cover back off and taking the head back off and starting over.....

Oh, and how do you install a new to the engine distributor when the new engine is new and never had one and the one you have came out of a different one? Is it just set the engine to TDC and push in the distributor see where it points then pull it out and rotate a bit and stick it back in until it poiints at the #1 on the cap? Is that as scientific as it gets?