RustyBucket_4x4

Will the rear brake conversion work in my 87 yota 4x4 xtra cab truck?

hauckster

ya im bringing this thread up from the dead just to add some tech

do the grinding like RMA said but if you have to do your bearings then do your grinding with the old bearings in.
if ya do it with the new bearings in it sure doesnt wanna spin under the power of the grinder like in the vid and ya have to start it up and put it in gear to get the axles turning


ask me how i know this lol

Junkers88

Old thread revival time.

I'd like to order one of those brackets and so far the links both give me 404 codes and I haven't gotten anywhere looking online. Anyone know if these are still available??

Mountain Cop

I'm guessing that you could piece it together for a couple of bucks at the hardware store. You would need that angle bracket, an eye bolt, and two nuts that fit the bolt. You will have to drill the bracket to fit the bolt holes. Done. If you couldn't find the bracket, you could make the piece with as little as a drill, an angle grinder, and a piece of angle iron.

I don't think that it should be a problem to have a little play between the rod and the eye of the bolt. It may not be as classy-looking, but it would just as functional. Paint it black, and nobody will ever see it anyway.

I, too am interested in a mechanical E-brake option for these. It seems to be worth looking into a bit more.

MC

RMA

junkers .. mountain cop is right you can make them pretty easy and cheap if you already have some angle iron ..

i did end up taking mine off and installed a manual summit valve .. not because it was giving me problems but because the whole toyota lspv was in the way of me putting in the f-150 gas tank. at the rear. i still havent put the tank up though.

i can sell you mine $15 shipped if you like..

corax

transfer case e-brake kit or I imagine it wouldn't be terribly difficult to make a set of cables like in this (somewhat pricey) kit for Tacomas with an 8" rear

Junkers88

I'll take it! PM me your information and let me know if you like paypal or prefer something else.

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

I just used a simple turnbuckle and hook setup from the local hardware store on mine:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/4R_suspe...ortioningValve



Handy threaded hole in the cargo floor right where it needs to be,

Junkers88

I took a look at that and considered it but am trying to clear as much space as possible under there so I'll have more room for the cargo hold we're building.

Thanks though!

BigBluePile

iTrader: (3)

Yeah, if you go with discs in the back you'll probably replumb so that the LSPV isn't even functional any more. Hence the manual proportion valve. Mine is still on the truck and it has the 4" extension bracket off the axle housing to locate the rod up higher. That's cost you nothing if you have some steel flat stock. The only reason I still have that rod and LSPV is to support my diff breather hose and future elocker cabling.

bamacooner1591

where can i find them brackets?

viaduct09

I just had some brackets cnc plasma cut last week outta 1/4" steele plate!!

$86 bucks shipped lower 48 states!! I ship across CANADA as well!!

Will work with all 1979-1995 Trucks & 4Runner's!!

You can set up these rear disc brake conversion brakets to run IFS, Tacoma or Pre-1985 calipers & rotors!!

RB_yota

I know this is a really old thread but has anyone looked into an 89 supra brake master cylinder? From my understanding it seems like a pretty good route to go. Someone correct me if I'm wrong but I believe it has the same bolt pattern for the brake booster so it bolts right on, it is still a 1" bore (aka 1" bore upgrade for many people) AND it has an adjustable proportioning valve built into the cylinder because the supra had rear disk brakes. It also strikes me as a good time to delete that goofy LSPV. Now I could be way off and if I am somebody please correct me, or yell at me and make fun of me no worries haha. Any input at all would be greatly appreciated.

viaduct09

Buy a manual proportioning valve from Summit Racing...take the guess work out of "are my back brakes gonna lock up!! Mixing prop valves with weight differences is a huge gamble!! Swap in a Landcruiser 1" bore master cylinder!

jordanhere123

So what's better to use? The newer v6 caliper and rotors or 83-85 caliper and rotors?Im trying to do the install on my 94 pickup.

Also is a press needed for anything?

nbl300

iTrader: (1)

[QUOTE=jordanhere123;52296644]So what's better to use? The newer v6 caliper and rotors or 83-85 caliper and rotors?Im trying to do the install on my 94 pickup.

Also is a press needed for anything?[/

I just did the install today with my buddy we used the solid axle calipers And rotors. Chose to use proportioning valve to prevent rear lockups. You need a press to push out the studs to get the drum backing plates off. Also took about 3 hours of grinding to get the axles small enough to get the rotors to fit over the ends

jordanhere123

[QUOTE=nbl300;52296682]I was leaning towards cutting the backing plates off since ill have no use for them. That would eliminate the need to press the studs out as well?

nbl300

iTrader: (1)

[QUOTE=jordanhere123;52296701]Yea I guess you could just cut them off and then you wouldn't have to press out the studs but your caliper mounting plates might not fit depending on how thing the backing plate is and how thick the mounts are

jordanhere123

[QUOTE=nbl300;52296703]The brackets are 3/8 or 1/4 from different people. Not sure what ones are better.

nbl300

iTrader: (1)

In my opinion it probably doesn't matter 1/4 inch is still pretty thick so either one would be solid I got the cheapest one off of ebay