1st gen 4runner: Help in wiring rear cargo switch for rear window
04-28-2012, 01:15 PM
#1
1st gen 4runner: Help in wiring rear cargo switch for rear window
I've got a contura spdt momentary switch that I want to wire in for the rear window. I've tried to make sense of the wiring diagrams for which wires to tap into -- electrical is my weakness. I'm mentally drained on relays and reverse grounds at this point and was hoping someone could point me to what color wires to tap into for the three coming off my new switch --- preferably coming off the relay versus inside the tailgate.
Thanks!
Thanks!
04-28-2012, 10:44 PM
#2
Ok. I wasn't going to sleep tonight until I solved this one -- and I did. Here's the solution:
Common wire for the switch: L-G coming off the canopy (cover top) switch
Window up wire coming off the relay box: Pin 12 L-B
Window down wire coming off the relay box: Pin 11 L-W
No need to tap into the tailgate and run wires through grommets. All of these wires are accessible in the rear ds quarter panel.
Common wire for the switch: L-G coming off the canopy (cover top) switch
Window up wire coming off the relay box: Pin 12 L-B
Window down wire coming off the relay box: Pin 11 L-W
No need to tap into the tailgate and run wires through grommets. All of these wires are accessible in the rear ds quarter panel.
Just used these. Then wrapped in electrical tape.
04-29-2012, 01:33 AM
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04-29-2012, 07:56 AM
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Just curious how you've had them fail. I've used them before with no issue. I do prefer to solder and heat shrink typically - in fact I've been doing it a lot this week. This was just more convenient given my long list of to-dos on the rig this week.
04-29-2012, 07:06 PM
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The biggest problem I have is that when you connect them, it actually cuts threw some of the wire, which is just one more place for corrosion to start, also they don't provide a good connection.
Its usually not so bad inside a vehicle. but when used anywhere that moisture can get to, then it will corrode out in a very short amount of time and fail. I work as a heavy truck technician, and I've had to fix and replace so meany of those scotch lock connectors that have failed. So I just plain wont use them.
Butt connectors and heat shrink work good. Solder and head shrink is best
Its usually not so bad inside a vehicle. but when used anywhere that moisture can get to, then it will corrode out in a very short amount of time and fail. I work as a heavy truck technician, and I've had to fix and replace so meany of those scotch lock connectors that have failed. So I just plain wont use them.
Butt connectors and heat shrink work good. Solder and head shrink is best
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