Str8jaket

I have a 1995 $runner 3.0L V6 4WD...with a bad knock sensor. Being the nub to toyota's that I am I am wondering if anyone can give some help as to what need to be done to replace this. I am confident in my mechanics skill but need direction on exactly what to do to replace it.... i.e. where it is and how to get to it. I am new here and would greatly appreciate any help from the community here.

thook

It's directly under the intake manifold in the center of the block. You'll have to pull everything off the top of the motor to get to it. You'll need a gasket set and gasket maker for this.

This is the online FSM that most everyone refers to for dismantling whatever on the motor.
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...sm/engine.html
You can refer to "cylinder head" removal for guidance....although, to do what you need to, many of the steps covered in that section aren't necessary.

There's a lot to remove to do this one little replacement and I don't recall offhand every little step. I can tell you the plenum and throttle body assembly can remain intact as well many of the vacuum lines on the pass. side of the plenum. Maybe someone with more energy will chime in. I'm just too tired right now. Sorry.

TNRabbit

It's probably just the wire running to the KS that is bad; a common failure point. It's about 8 inches long & costs less than $10. But the labor to get that puppy out is an absolute B!TCH! You have to remove the entire plenum/intake, not to mention the timing cover & a host of other crap. Check the online FSM for sure.

thook

Yep....the timing cover has to come off to get the idler pulley/water inlet off. That has to come off to remove the manifold.

headgasket

Chickenlover did a nice post on how to get the upper idler off w/o more work than necessary do a search on chickenlover's posts/threads. Saved me a bunch of work!

headgasket

Ditto x2 on the $9.95 new Toyota wire and ditto on replacing it if you're getting the code 52. Rig will underperform i.e. run crappier than normal.

Bassinfool

Yeah, I'd definitely check the wire first. I had the same problem on my old '92 V6. When I got down to the wire it was totally chewed up. Only problem is it will cost you about $120 in gaskets to replace a $11 wire, if you do it yourself. But that's better than $120 in gaskets and $275 for a knock sensor! Good luck!!!

fast7mtoys

3.slow for the loss!!!

sorry but yes this is a pain in the A$$ problem with the 3.0 usually the wire gets replaced with the upgraded wire when the head gaskets get done, I ALWAYS REPLACE THIS WIRE WHEN DOING HEAD GASKETS!!!!!!!!

headgasket

Hey if you want a $20 option w/o ripping your engine down here's a simple way to solve your [problem.

Call this friendly business at 503-661-5614. They dismantle used engines. I purchased a used knock sensor and wire for $10 + $8 UPS.

You simply disconnect the existing KS wire from under the throttle body; hook up the new(used) wire and knock sensor. Bolt the "false Knock sensor" to your driver side rear engine "hook" (By plug wire number 6) with a corresponding lock washer and nut.(your hardware or auto supply store has nuts)

Viola the ECM thinks "Everything's OK and you save a lot of time and hassle.
If it turns out the used knock sensor wire is bad, I doubt it, mine wasn't then you go to Toyota dealership and get a $9.95 wire.
I know this works because I tried it firsthand. Ping me if you have a problem or questions.

My personal brand new knock sensor wire is still in the Toyota packaging.
Best $10 I have ever spent and when I need it I've got it.

Just the usual 2cents but it can save you some hard earned cash and the hassle of tearing the rig down.

fast7mtoys

good idea never thought of that, i know when i installed a jasper into a customers 4 runner i think it had 2 knock sensors, or was missing the bung or something to that degree and i was instructed to do like you said and remote mount it