Kyle95sr5

Alright guys, I'm bout to go for the 5speed swap in my 4runner. My auto is still perfect and all, I just want the better power that comes with the 5speed. My 4.88s will also be perfect with my 33s if I did the swap. I've been researching it alot and it seems pretty easy to do. I just have a few questions.

First off is the parts list:
- Tranny/Transfer Case
- Mount
- Rear driveshaft
- Pedal Assembly
- Master/Slave cylinder
- Shifters
- Hydraulic Lines both hard and soft
- Flywheel
- Misc. Seals to replace
- Fluids
- Speedo Plug

So here are my questions.
1.) The only electronic problems I need to deal with other then some dash lights is the plug that goes into the tranny. You just connect black to black and white to white correct?

2.) ADD? Anyone figure out how to make this work? Are there some vacuum lines that need to be connected or something like that.

3.) Marlin Crawler has this cool little plug thing to cure the speedo problem. http://www.marlincrawler.com/htm/tra...e/tcase_ac.htm Does it matter what year transmission I get? I heard that 93-95 R150 has an electronic speedo thing and the older ones had a mechanical? Which transmission should I be looking for or does it matter? I have an electronic speedo right since mine is 95?

4.) Hydraulic Lines? Where and how do I route them? How many lines do I need and how do i know if I need a soft line or hard line? Where should I get the lines from?

95RunnerSR5

bump as i am about to start my swap also..

Kyle95sr5

Here are some of the links i've been reading through fellow Kyle

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/show...light=schooler

http://bbs.off-road.com/ubbthreads/s...ue#Post1262965

95RunnerSR5

much appreciated

Kyle95sr5

anyone?

tc

PM Schooler - she's done it, here's the thread

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116/so-begins-auto-manual-transmission-swap-93-3-0-4-runner-82939/

Guardian_Saint

I haven't done mine yet but I let you know after I'm done, maybe I be done by next week.

From what you have the wire should be cover in your second link were he mention the wire, can't get what he was saying but it should give you a hint.

Believe there is no vacuum hose that you will not need to connect through the tranny or anything without vaccuum will be involve, all you need is to connect the wire that connect to the transfer case, he should mention this wire too. If I am done with mine I'll let you know.

You should wait until you get the 5 speed tranny first to see if you will need the MC VSS but I'm not sure if year '92 - '95 5 speed have a similiar VSS but maybe using same VSS as the auto. Try getting the tranny from a '93 - '95 4runner, your wheel base is 103 inches so you might not need the driveshaft or you will, but just in case just grab the DS if you can. If you got the tranny from 88 - 91 5 speed you may need the driveshaft from '92 - '95.

You need the hard line and the soft line, toyota sell them so grab the year model that you have, it might route them to your 4runner. If you got the line from the donor or from junk yard it might not route them correctly but you can bend them by using the pipe/tube bender from any auto parts store that carry them.

Manuel pedal assembly from 88 - 95 should bolt in, you need to make a 30 or 31mm hole by using the Bi-metal hole saw Mandrel and bi-metal hole saw 30mm or 31mm [ harbor freight carry them ] and it make a perfect circle..., so carefully mark the hole then drill [ be sure to pill off the plastic cover off first, you don't need a blade to cut them just pill them off ], you also need to make two hole between the 31mm hole, just drill them with any drill set and using a grinder to grind to it spec. I'll take a picture later on to give you a hint
You might want to take the whole dash out to make an easy work around the pedal assembly area, thats what I did on mine.

I'll take some picture that will give you some help, a picture is worth a thousand words .

Kyle95sr5

See thats that kind of info that I wanted. This keeps sounding easier and easier. I have a friend that owns a Toyota junkyard so I just need to go out there some time to pick out a tranny/transfer case. Yeah man, please post up all the pictures that you can. A picture is worth a thousand words. How much time do you have invested in this? How long do you think it would take to finish? I plan on finishing it in one weekend.

dijlop

lol. wanna post some pics of how to do it with a '96 nissan maxima? hehehe. see if i cant get my dad to but himself a new car so i can have the max. woo that thing can get goin fast. (u must realize that im comparing it to my 94 yota pu with the 22re.)

along with the know how and such, be sure to include pricing. i would love to know u can do this for a medium amount of money and a ton of work in a weekend.

Guardian_Saint

Here is a glance of the clucth through the firewall, you might want to use your old bracket to mark the three hole you need to make because the clutch assembly only have one hole and the other two are block by the studs.


From the outside view, it sit there perfectly.


Here is the stick shift will be at and I got the cover sitting there and getting ready to mark them and will be diong some cutting. easy task I can say.

If you need some more picture from other area I be happy to post up more. This is all I got for the day.

If you got everything on hand then it should be done in a week. If you have 2 person working on it then it should take you 2 days or one, only if you work very hard into it then you might get it done in a day or two.

My investment on this, 5 speed transmission + T/C, hard and soft line, slave + master cylinder, clutch assembly = $400 ( got it from craigslist and the guy charge me $100 for him to remove the tranny out from the truck...) Haven't got the clutch and flywheel yet so it should be at the range of $200 to $300 and these clutch are maybe cheapo type not from MC, but I might get the flywheel from MC, total out at $300. I work in a auto supply company and they also carry clutch kit and the fly wheel, if I get it from them then it might cost me $150 for all. ( Dynomax is the name ) all total at $550 to $700 USD...

Un-relative tools and parts. Engine Hoist, engine stand, MLS HG and HG Full kit from eBay, oil pump all total at $360



Will when ever you are giong to start the work on it, you want to drop the tranny first if you are thinking pulling the engine out. Also use a jack, to keep it at low cost investment I did the old fashion way, didn't use the recommended tranny jack and use my regular jack to hold the tranny in place, balance it while you placing it there then you want to put the jack w/ a thick wood under the tran. pan and lift it up a bit so you can unbolt the 8 bolts that hold the cross member, oh be sure to unbolt the tranny mount first, and there are 5 bolts you need to remove from the tranny mount, 3 on the passenger side and 2 on driver side. After you are done with the cross member and other, then you want to unbolt the engine mount and get the engine hoist to hold the engine in place so you can drop the tranny a bit down to remove 12 or 15 bolts that hold it to the engine. I use a 18' extension and a 3/8 ranchet w/ the long 14mm socket is all I needed to get the job done, and be sure to have a breaker in hand, I use my broken 15 inches magna flash light for the breaker bar, it done the job easier.

Forgot to tell you, drain the tranny fluid first and don't worry about those wire and the throttle cable, when you get the tranny out you can just unplug the connector that connect all wire to the tranny then ur done with the wire remover. 02 sensor plug need to be disconnected too.

So be safe while working on your project, I have friend that got there thump broken while removing the tranny cause not being careful, and don't rush to get it done.

netgodsrdn2

I just completed the process on an 86 4runner last weekend. I have done a lot of wrenching over the years and didn't find the process to be all that tough. The one detail I was concerned about was getting the holes in the firewall right on the first try. Given the tight space under the dash I decided to make a little room. I cut the bracket part off of the old automatic pedal assembly leaving just the backing plate part that actually bolts to the firewall. The automatic backing plate has the correct holes (although a little larger than you actually want to drill) Once the chopped plate was bolted back in I it was pretty easy to get the holes right... Here are a couple pictures of what I'm talking about...

The bracket part I cut off-


And then the backing plate that was left-


Not sure if that helps anyone else, but like I say it made me feel better about drilling new holes in my firewall...

EDIT: One other thing I found made the job easier, take out your drivers seat. It gives you a lot more room to get in there...

Ron

Kyle95sr5

Thanks guys. Thanks for the pictures. It's makin everything easier to understand. Right now i'm just waiting to hit up the toyota junkyard to get some parts. My graduation is this saturday and family are gonna be down so its gotta wait until next weekend. I should be pullin the trigger by the end of June. Just gotta collect the parts I need first.

The only part that has me worried now is the hydraulic lines. Is there a diagram or something that shows which lines to run to which port?

Spinnbait

I did my swap in three days this past fall. It is very simple. Do make sure to purchase a new master cylinder, slave, lines, clutch, pressure plate, and pilot bearing. Fill the tranny and case while they're on the ground, trust me. If you have the time and materials, weld a backing plate around the area that you install the m.c. Make sure to press the pilot bearing in as far as possible, otherwise you will never get the thing to work correctly. If you have any questions, please feel free to ask. The wiring is the only difficult part, but it's really only three pieces. Best of luck with the ADD. I just engaged mine permanently (manual hubs cure the CV problem).