dugan1

I recently received a free 1995 auto 3.0 toyota auto with 130k on it that "died" about 3 years ago.

I was told the engine was a fresh rebuild and the truck just stopped starting one day.

It will crank forever but will not fire.

After receiving I started messing with the obvious issues:

Has spark - I saw and had to feel.. ouch
Has fuel - Can smell it
Efi relay- Checked good
Open Circuit Relay - checked good
Fuel pump - Bypassed at fuse panel using diagnostic ports Checked good
Check engine codes - #27 ECU/02 Sensor.
Timing belt - Dizzy rotor spins when engine is cranked.

Now I was told an ECU wouldnt cause a no start, but who knows.

Can you check the timing without tearing down the engine? Can I remove the plastic cover and check the cams while the engines at TDC? It could have skipped a tooth?

Edit: Just found this http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...63troubles.pdf
Lists possible issues with no starts.

dugan1

Anyone have any input on this?

scope103

What you need is fuel, air and spark. That's all there is to it.

Use a timing light to verify spark (put the pickup on each plug wire; the light flashes to confirm spark. Much easier than electrocuting yourself).

Then check to see that the timing is somewhere in the right neighborhood. You should at least be able to see the timing mark when on #1; if not, the distributor may have been mis-inserted (each gear-tooth off is about 28° of timing).

Pull a plug and verify that it is wet (with fuel). If not, you could try starting fluid (but go very light on that stuff).

Where did you get your codes? I thought the '95 had the same codes as '93, and there is no code 27. http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...85diagnosi.pdf (it it's really 21, don't worry about that yet, it won't affect starting).

Of course a bad ECU can cause a no-start, but bad ECUs are really quite rare.

Rather than pull the valve cover to check valve timing, just check compression. I've heard people worry about "skipping a tooth," but I've never seen it happen, and I can't imagine how it could happen.

dugan1

initially I had looked at a 22R code sheet, I realized the 27 isnt for the 3.0.

I swear I was getting 2 fast flashes a pause and 7 more fast. Ill recheck.

fdp101452

Scope, as usual is right on the money. Ive noticed anymore that fuel doesn't keep as well as it used to. Sometimes it will run with it but it wont start with it. Might be something to check.

dugan1

I was told to check the Crank position sensor.

Everytime I look up the part, it seems to all be universals.

Did these have CPSs?

Ghc80

I recently rebuilt a 3.0. After putting everything back together including a new wiring harness and ECU. I try to start it have the same symptoms as you air, spark, and fuel cranks but won't start. Anyway after rechecking everything I find I forgot to plug up my o2 sensor. Plugged it in and fired right up. May be worth checking on. Could be a wire burned/severed I didn't have a CEL on even though mine was not hooked up.

dugan1

An 02 sensor kept the truck from starting? Ive never dealt with toyotas, but no other vehicle ive ever seen has done that haha. Def going to check it out.

Rerunn

That 02 was coincidence of some kind. I started my 22re after rebuild with no 02 just to check it or would ruin and it fired off fine.... just ran bad

dugan1

I read on this post about a ground behind the manifold.
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...94/index2.html

Im gonna have to check my grounds. That would explain why this vehicle just died randomly for the PO.

AdmiralYoda

I'm curious about fuel too. My 22RE sat for 4 years and wouldn't start. Occassionally I could get it to kick but it wouldn't go.

I did everything you did and verified my fuel pump was working...but I wasn't getting fuel. Have you verified you are getting fuel pressure at the injectors?

There was sludge in the tank and it clogged the fuel filter. I replaced the filter and it started right up.

dugan1

I bypassed fuel pump to turn it on, I can smell fuel when cranking, get a slight white haze after i jumped the pump. Before i jumped the pump the engine sounds like it wants to fire up. One time my gf let off the gas a bit and it started but died because she didnt hold throttle.

Is there a scrader valve on fuel rail on these? Well be diag. this thing this weekend. I hate trying to get a non-car person to rememeber 3 years ago what happened to their vehicle...then working off skewed info

dugan1

Looks like theres a banjo bolt somewhere I need to remove and use a tester banjo, Autozone has the banjo kit for rent. Ill have to try it out.

Just gotta location place to test.

dugan1

I did hit it with carb cleaner and starting fluid and it wouldnt start however. Kinda makes me think fuel pressure wouldnt matter but its more to check!

AdmiralYoda

Like scope mentioned....are the plugs wet? If its been cranking forever and has actually been getting fuel they'd be soaked by now.

dugan1

I havent had a chance to touch it. Just trying to acquire a list of things to check before this weekend.

Ghc80

Good luck my 3.0 gave me a fit. But, now that's its running it does fairly well. I am 100% sure that mine for whatever reason will not start without the o2. I say this because my buddy argued about it with me until I unhooked it and proved it wouldn't. After all I've been through with mine nothing surprises me with a 3.0....lol

dugan1

Got it running, but it doesnt like running!

Realized the "27" code I got was 2 and 7. TPS and Air flow vane.

So we cranked the engine over with pedal to the floor and I would push the air flow vane open and the engine would start, not easily though. Atleast 30 seconds of cranking. And would only idle under throttle.

The engine created a cloud similar to "seafoaming" a car.
As I was revving the engine I noticed the overflow of the rad blowing out towards the engine. I put my finger over it and it was ice cold. Opened rad cap to the smell of exhaust fumes. Trashed HG....

So sadly the engine was toast and my friend who might have wanted it isnt willing to put effort to a HG engine that has upper valve train noise.

Im up for either scrapping it or I have a guy whom wants the whole thing for 650$.

Would it be better to sell the older, brand new tread tires and rims and I have a buyer for the 8"(I guess 200$?) and scrap the rest? or just sell it for 650 and say screw it!