1993 Toyota 4x4 extra cab Pickup 22re will not start - distributor
#1
1993 Toyota 4x4 extra cab Pickup 22re will not start - distributor
Greetings,
We were driving down the road one day after playing on the forest service roads and the truck just cut out and stopped. It would not start afterwards. Had to get it towed home. It turns over but does not start. We determined that we are not getting spark. I checked the ignition coil primary and secondary circuits with the ohm meter and they are within spec. We are also getting voltage to the ignition coil. (I do have the Factory Service Manuals)
Took the distributor cap off and noticed that there is "shredded or frayed" wire wrapped around the shaft. It almost looks like cotton candy - I have no idea what that's about. Maybe a wire got caught on the rotor and shredded. I have attached a photo.
Is this the problem and if so, what do you think needs to be done? My son and I are hoping it is something we can tackle on our own. We are not mechanics but are not afraid to jump in on something if its not extremely hard.
Thanks for the input.
We were driving down the road one day after playing on the forest service roads and the truck just cut out and stopped. It would not start afterwards. Had to get it towed home. It turns over but does not start. We determined that we are not getting spark. I checked the ignition coil primary and secondary circuits with the ohm meter and they are within spec. We are also getting voltage to the ignition coil. (I do have the Factory Service Manuals)
Took the distributor cap off and noticed that there is "shredded or frayed" wire wrapped around the shaft. It almost looks like cotton candy - I have no idea what that's about. Maybe a wire got caught on the rotor and shredded. I have attached a photo.
Is this the problem and if so, what do you think needs to be done? My son and I are hoping it is something we can tackle on our own. We are not mechanics but are not afraid to jump in on something if its not extremely hard.
Thanks for the input.
#2
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Yikes! It looks like you disintegrated the pickup coil. Your multimeter will confirm:
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b.../4onvehicl.pdf
RockAuto has replacement distributors for $111-$215, but they also carry just the replacement pickup coil for about $55. If you go the latter route, inspect the shaft carefully to see if it (or the bearing or seal) was damaged by your futile attempts to start the truck.
PS: welcome to YotaTech! Remember that you have to report back on what you found, what you did, and whether it worked.
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b.../4onvehicl.pdf
RockAuto has replacement distributors for $111-$215, but they also carry just the replacement pickup coil for about $55. If you go the latter route, inspect the shaft carefully to see if it (or the bearing or seal) was damaged by your futile attempts to start the truck.
PS: welcome to YotaTech! Remember that you have to report back on what you found, what you did, and whether it worked.
Last edited by scope103; 02-28-2015 at 12:00 PM.
#5
Follow up to the distributor installation - WORKS
We (my 15 year old son did most of the work - pretty much going to be his truck) replaced the distributor this weekend. It cranked right up. Fantastic!!!
Thanks for the help, your comments gave us the confidence to expend cash on a distributor.
A couple of comments -
1. We could not use the distributor cap that came with the new distributor because the sparkplug wires would not fit to the new cap. Each wire had a clip that secured it to the cap. I found what the kind installed looks like at Ice Performance - Part number 8010105 . We tried removing the clips, etc. but could not get the wires secured to the distributor cap. What did work was to use the old distributor cap.
2. We are still at a loss as to what happened to the original distributor and where all the wire and broken plastic originated (see original photo). The suggestion that it was the pickup coil is probably correct but it looked like it was still there when we compared the inside of the new vs the old - they looked the same.
3. Now we are trying to set the timing. The service manual says it should be 750 RPM at idle (after warming up). Ours is about 660. If we bump it up by turning the distributor to about 850rpm is sounds great and has the pep it was missing. I am hoping that it is not going to cause problems other than MPG.
I do not want to over romanticize this activity but as father son project it was priceless – It was a supreme experience.
Thanks for the help
Thanks for the help, your comments gave us the confidence to expend cash on a distributor.
A couple of comments -
1. We could not use the distributor cap that came with the new distributor because the sparkplug wires would not fit to the new cap. Each wire had a clip that secured it to the cap. I found what the kind installed looks like at Ice Performance - Part number 8010105 . We tried removing the clips, etc. but could not get the wires secured to the distributor cap. What did work was to use the old distributor cap.
2. We are still at a loss as to what happened to the original distributor and where all the wire and broken plastic originated (see original photo). The suggestion that it was the pickup coil is probably correct but it looked like it was still there when we compared the inside of the new vs the old - they looked the same.
3. Now we are trying to set the timing. The service manual says it should be 750 RPM at idle (after warming up). Ours is about 660. If we bump it up by turning the distributor to about 850rpm is sounds great and has the pep it was missing. I am hoping that it is not going to cause problems other than MPG.
I do not want to over romanticize this activity but as father son project it was priceless – It was a supreme experience.
Thanks for the help
Last edited by PopsDad1; 03-09-2015 at 11:28 AM.
#6
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That definitely grabbed the VR sensor. Most likely loose / worn bushings on the distributor shaft caused contact.
Adjusting idle speed is a dance between adjusting the throttle air bleed valve (large "flat" screw on top of the throttle body) and adjusting the timing using a jumper in the service connector on the fender well.
Many write ups in here as to how to do it.
Adjusting idle speed is a dance between adjusting the throttle air bleed valve (large "flat" screw on top of the throttle body) and adjusting the timing using a jumper in the service connector on the fender well.
Many write ups in here as to how to do it.
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