anndel

My truck was parked at work and didn't go out for lunch or anywhere. When I started the truck to go home, it took a bit longer to crank then started but ran rough. The check engine light came on and stayed on. While at the traffic light, the idle sputtered like it was going to die so I gave it some gas. I turned on the a/c and it ran fine at normal rpm (~850 rpm). I got on the freeway but noticed it didn't have the normal power and was sluggish. I got home, turned off the engine then back on but no start. I opened the diagnostics box and jumped TE1 to E1 and the CEL was still steady, not blinking any codes. I started the engine today and it again took a bit longer to crank before starting and as it warmed up it started sputtering. Same thing, I can't pull any codes and the CEL was on when I ran the engine. The truck has about 160,000 miles and I replaced the timing chain 2 years ago with a OSK OEM kit from 22RE Performance.

Anyone experienced this and any tips or advice? Is the ECM shot? I checked the voltages per the FSM and all are good.

Thanks very much in advance.

scope103

The signal for "no codes" is 2 Hz flashing. Steady on just means power.

Most likely, you didn't get a good connection with your jumper. Give it another shot.

anndel

OK I checked the jumper, and it appears I made a good connection with the same results - steady CEL. I tried jumping it at the ECM by backprobing the E1 and TE1 and even poking the wires at the ECM connectors same thing - steady CEL. I check the wires between the ECM connector and the DLC and there's continuity so the wires seem good. Does this mean the ECM is bad?

Thanks in advanced.

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

By chance did the ECU get wet??

Voltage spike ??

Other then physical damage to wiring corroded check connector .

Not much else will damage a ECU

anndel

Please see photos, looks like some drips of water but not a heavy flow. I opened the ECU and inside was bone dry with the exception a few dead cockroaches. I don't think there was a voltage spike but I charged the battery since I didn't drive it for 2 weeks since it was pouring outside. I rechecked the connectors and they all look good, like new. Continuity between the connector and the DLC was good at zero ohms. Thanks