1993 4wd front rotor removal
#1
1993 4wd front rotor removal
Rig
1993 toyota pickup ext cab 4x4
What I can't seem to find in the toyota fsm. I can't seem to find how to remove and replace the front rotors. If someone could post up a link would appreciated.
1993 toyota pickup ext cab 4x4
What I can't seem to find in the toyota fsm. I can't seem to find how to remove and replace the front rotors. If someone could post up a link would appreciated.
#2
Registered User
I don't have the FSM with me (on my phone), but from memory it should be.
Jack and support vehicle
Remove wheel and tire
Remove the 4wd hub selector
Remove the cone washers
Remove the wheel bearings
Remove rotor hub assembly
Unbolt rotor from back of hub.
Jack and support vehicle
Remove wheel and tire
Remove the 4wd hub selector
Remove the cone washers
Remove the wheel bearings
Remove rotor hub assembly
Unbolt rotor from back of hub.
#6
Registered User
Rotor to Hub: 47 ft/lbs
Nut over cone washer: 23 ft/lbs
Middle screw under Free-wheel selector: 13 ft/lbs
Cap screws in Free-wheel selector: 7 ft/lbs
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...14freewhee.pdf
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...8-4wds1212.pdf
Nut over cone washer: 23 ft/lbs
Middle screw under Free-wheel selector: 13 ft/lbs
Cap screws in Free-wheel selector: 7 ft/lbs
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...14freewhee.pdf
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...8-4wds1212.pdf
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#8
Yes i have looked at every PDF fromt he sticky FSM, and not one thing found on how to or torque specs for the removal or install of a rotor. In some cases it says to remove it, but nothing how to. If you can find it, please paste the link.
Looking for the torque spec of the 54mm nut(s) to preload the bearings within the hub/spindle
Looking for the torque spec of the 54mm nut(s) to preload the bearings within the hub/spindle
Last edited by kcaudill; 05-11-2015 at 10:36 AM.
#10
Awesome, thats what i was looking for. thanks Millball
Can you confirm for me its a 54mm socket needed?
Thanks again
Can you confirm for me its a 54mm socket needed?
Thanks again
Last edited by kcaudill; 05-11-2015 at 12:01 PM.
#11
Registered User
IDK. I no longer have my '94. This was going off memory and the FSM. But to be honest setting the wheel bearings I always used a big pair of channel locks and spun them. I've regreased hundreds if not thousands of front ends and always spun the wheels to set load.
#14
Registered User
I snapped off my lug stud while putting my tires back on right after I repacked my wheel bearings. When I replace the stud will I have to repack them again or will they be ok to just set back in and tighten?
#15
Registered User
You should be fine with the same grease and packing job.
When you drive, the grease gets hot and thin and flows thru all of your bearings. When you repack a set of bearings you are doing two things: pushing all the remaining old grease out if there was any left after cleaning, and put grease into the bearing for initial use until the grease gets hot.
Since you haven't driven anywhere, all that freshly packed grease will still be between the rollers and the cage.
When you drive, the grease gets hot and thin and flows thru all of your bearings. When you repack a set of bearings you are doing two things: pushing all the remaining old grease out if there was any left after cleaning, and put grease into the bearing for initial use until the grease gets hot.
Since you haven't driven anywhere, all that freshly packed grease will still be between the rollers and the cage.
#17
No, you have to remove the brake caliper, steering arm, wheel hub with rotor, remove the rotor, press out the stud, and then reassemble.
You will need
54mm socket, a special thin wall socket will only work
19 mm socket to remove the steering arm
17mm socket remove the caliper
10mm to remove the free wheel hub
12mm gold bolt and the 4wd hub
spring clip pliers
14mm socket for the rotor bolts
Parts
New star lock washer
New lock hub seal
New 4wd hub seal
Have fun :-)
You will need
54mm socket, a special thin wall socket will only work
19 mm socket to remove the steering arm
17mm socket remove the caliper
10mm to remove the free wheel hub
12mm gold bolt and the 4wd hub
spring clip pliers
14mm socket for the rotor bolts
Parts
New star lock washer
New lock hub seal
New 4wd hub seal
Have fun :-)
#18
Registered User
My hub seal and star lock washer wasn't damaged at so ill just reuse the old ones. doesn't sound that bad just time consuming. I might just wait a while. why do I need to remove the steering arm?
#19
to get the caliper out of the way. the hard line runs to a bracket that holds the steering are on, Unless you can remove the hard brake line from your caliper. i couldn't.
#20
Registered User
Ok I asked because that was the first time I heard someone say anything about the steering arm. I assumed it was the same process as changing the wheel bearings(disassembling wise), then just unbolt the rotor to the hub and presto your stud is exposed. But my original ? never fully got answered about repacking. Will I need to repack again since I have driving it since my repack 3 days ago. if that's the case ill just ride with 5 lugs on one side till I change rotors or repack or something lol