1993 4runner 3.0 problem
07-07-2014, 11:26 PM
#1
1993 4runner 3.0 problem
Hey guys, I just recently bought a 93 4runner and I thought this would be the best place to go for my issue on the 4runner. First off its a 3.0 v6 automatic with cold air intake and 211,000 miles. I started noticing that the truck will not accelerate what so ever after a few minutes of driving. It accelerates fine after just starting it but then a couple minutes later, it falls flat on its face and takes a while to get to 20mph. The weird thing is though is that when it goes to ˟˟˟˟, if I turn it off and turn it back on, it runs fine again and then a few minutes later craps out. It also will rev fine in park but once it goes back to drive, it won't go over 2k at full throttle for a few seconds. It idles fine and does not have a misfire. I pulled the codes and it's telling me it's all clear. Please help, I don't know what to do.
Last edited by Charecter1; 07-08-2014 at 01:00 PM.
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07-08-2014, 07:02 PM
#9
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A clogged fuel filter could produce symptoms similar to yours; when you sit for a while the "gunk" falls to the bottom, and after running a bit it moves up and clogs the few remaining pores. A long shot.
The issue, though, is that changing the fuel filter on a 3.0 IS a big-darn-deal. Testing fuel pressure is also pretty involved, and you need replacement gaskets for every time you do it.
So I suggest starting with the easy stuff (like checking for stored codes, and verifying timing). You may get to harder stuff later.
The issue, though, is that changing the fuel filter on a 3.0 IS a big-darn-deal. Testing fuel pressure is also pretty involved, and you need replacement gaskets for every time you do it.
So I suggest starting with the easy stuff (like checking for stored codes, and verifying timing). You may get to harder stuff later.
07-08-2014, 07:12 PM
#10
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I'm leaning towards fuel pump or filter myself.
As stated it is a pain in the ass, as there is no test port.
You need to install a test fitting that replaces the banjo bolt on the cold start injector.
I bought an extra one and just left it installed.
My thought is that it is having problems keeping up with the flow requirements under load.
No load....no problem.
Fresh start....no problem until it can't keep up.
It might not be, however.
I'd throw a fitting on it and take a drive when it acts up throw a gauge on immediately and see what it's reading.
It will rule out fuel or not.
As stated it is a pain in the ass, as there is no test port.
You need to install a test fitting that replaces the banjo bolt on the cold start injector.
I bought an extra one and just left it installed.
My thought is that it is having problems keeping up with the flow requirements under load.
No load....no problem.
Fresh start....no problem until it can't keep up.
It might not be, however.
I'd throw a fitting on it and take a drive when it acts up throw a gauge on immediately and see what it's reading.
It will rule out fuel or not.
07-08-2014, 07:29 PM
#11
So update on the timing, it was retarded but it runs better when it is. When we set the timing back to 10btdc like it should be, it runs even worse. It constantly is in what I call, it's "crap mode". It's hard to accelerate and shutting it off doesn't fix it. So we put it back to retarded.
Last edited by Charecter1; 07-09-2014 at 12:57 AM.
07-09-2014, 05:51 AM
#12
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07-09-2014, 07:45 AM
#13
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Just my $.02 but I'll go with a dirty fuel filter. What a PITA if the connectors on the filter are rusty and you will still get a nice bath of gasoline when you get it off. The "fail under load" really points to low fuel flow. Also, when you advance your spark, you are leaning out the A/F ratio even more.
There might be a very slim chance that your TPS needs adjusting, but the one of the symptoms I had was a very advanced spark. I doubt that is your problem.
There might be a very slim chance that your TPS needs adjusting, but the one of the symptoms I had was a very advanced spark. I doubt that is your problem.
07-09-2014, 09:56 AM
#15
Works better with timing retarded?
hmmmmm. I don't know if the TPS will affect the engine/ignition system this much, but try unplugging it and see how the car runs. If it runs differently, your TPS may be suspect.
But, maybe someone else can chime in on why retarding timing will have better results.. it's usually other way around.
hmmmmm. I don't know if the TPS will affect the engine/ignition system this much, but try unplugging it and see how the car runs. If it runs differently, your TPS may be suspect.
But, maybe someone else can chime in on why retarding timing will have better results.. it's usually other way around.
07-09-2014, 05:57 PM
#17
Registered User
Worse case, your pump is either failing or the "sock" is clogged up. That probably means visiting your fuel tank.
Good luck - Mark
07-09-2014, 06:25 PM
#18
If your filter was just changed, then that probably isn't the problem. I'll have to side with GEVO about your TPS, but then again by retarding the advance and getting better response sounds counter intuitive. If you have a multimeter and two credit - hotel key cards that are different thickness, check out your TPS. It just takes a little time once you know what pins to connect to on your TPS. Each 3VZE is different depending on year and model. Don't ask me how I know.
Worse case, your pump is either failing or the "sock" is clogged up. That probably means visiting your fuel tank.
Good luck - Mark
Worse case, your pump is either failing or the "sock" is clogged up. That probably means visiting your fuel tank.
Good luck - Mark
