paulman227

I was out collecting firewood yesterday and smelled gas. One of the injectors is spraying fuel with the engine running. I can see part of the o-ring sticking out, so I am assuming that's the culprit.

I have the Haynes manual, so I think I can do this myself. However, the truck is in a not so easy to access or work on area, aka up on a ridge. So if anyone has any advice on what to, or what NOT to do in this situation, please advise.

The Haynes instructions seem a bit lengthy. Any shortcuts? My plan is to replace all the o-rings. Should I replace the grommets too?

Cheers,

Paulman

Cthulhu

I am not a mechanic. All you have to do is take your time and pay attention to what you take off then put it back on the same way. If I can do it, you can do it.

I bought an O-ring kit from Napa for the injector. Take off the intake manifold and all the vacuum lines. Pull the injector off and redo all the rubber on it. Before you push it back in make sure the hole is clean where you insert it and also make sure you don't drop anything in there.

I CANT STRESS THIS ENOUGH-------->>> Get some GASOLINE and make sure to get all the rubber on the fuel injector lubed up with gas before you push it in. I didn't do this the first two times and it screwed me. Ive had my damn manifold off like 4 times this year..

You'll need some extensions to get the fuel line back into the bottom of the intake. Be careful when taking any fuel lines off because they have copper crush washers that can fall and disappear so magically quick!

paulman227

Thanks for the info.

A couple more questions:

How do I relieve the fuel pressure? The Haynes says to drop the fuel tank and remove the wiring harness to the fuel pump. Sounds involved. I can't find the fuel pump relay or any fuse. Location?

In taking this apart are they any other gaskets that need to be replaced or any special tools I need? The truck is in an isolated area and very far from a parts store.

You mentioned "extensions'. I assume you mean socket extensions, yeah?

Thanks Much!

Cthulhu

Yes I mean socket extensions. To relieve pressure just open your gas cap. And when I worked on the tank I took the bed off of my truck. I did it solo EXCEPT for actually moving the bed back and onto the ground. I needed help for probably 30 seconds total the rest was all me. As for gaskets or special tools, I don't think so. I didn't need anything special anyway.

If you have a 4runner then obviously you wont be taking the bed off, in that case you will be dropping the tank which isn't bad.

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

To relieve pressure what I do is disconnect the battery and with a rag under the Cold Start Injector, I soak up the fuel that leaks out. It will not be that much. Disconnecting the electric supply is more involved then I want to get into myself and will relive the pressure. Just the way that I do it and works for me. The correct way would be as mentioned earlier but is more difficult on a truck. It is possible to disconnect the electric plug without removing the bed.

When you do reassembe it, anytime I have to disconnect the fuel supply line to the Cold Start Injector, it is the very first place I look for leaks when cranking and starting the truck back up. It will spray fuel everywhere if not sealed tight enough. Really pay attention to that area when completed.

wallytoo

iTrader: (1)

replacing injectors/o-rings shouldn't involve removing the tank. that's why i don't use either chiltons or haynes - both are a waste of paper.

there are a few ways to relieve the pressure. two involve the fuel rail (under the TB/plenum). the easiest is to loosen the fuel pulsation damper at the front end of the rail. or, you can loosen the fuel pressure regulator at the rear. another way is to loosen the cold start injector fuel fitting. all will allow gas to flow/leak out. it didn't bother me, i just let it flow. after about 10 seconds, the flow stops (and the pressure is relieved).

scope103

DO NOT reuse the crush washers! They crush when you tighten them, get it? One-time use only.

They are a dealer-only item, but they are cheaper than dirt. In fact, figure out the sizes you need, and buy 2 extra of each size.

They look to me like they are made of aluminum, but I suppose it's possible they are tinned copper. The do not LOOK like copper.

I know someone on this site will say "yeah, yeah -- you can reuse the crush washers. What's the worst that could happen?" The worst that can happen is the most likely thing to happen: you and your truck will disappear in a ball of fire.

There are "lots" of ways to relieve the rail pressure, from running the truck and pulling the EFI fuse to using a pump to pull vacuum on the FPR. None of them work. Follow Terrys87 suggestion: eliminate ignition sources, wear safety glasses, wrap a rag under a fitting, and open it carefully. You'll lose about 1-2 tablespoons of fuel.

Removing the fuel cap isn't strictly necessary, as that holds a tiny bit of pressure in the fuel tank, while the pump (and check valve) holds the ~38psi pressure in the rail. But I suppose if it's a hot day expansion in the tank can keep the open fitting slowly dripping fuel, so go ahead and take off the cap.

paulman227

Thank you so much for all the info. This task has gone from daunting into adventure mode. I'll let ya'll know if I blow up or not

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

Most wont have access to a FSM and I have both FSM and Haynes. Chilton is terrible. I prefer Haynes unless in depth trouble shooting and even then the Haynes was better in a couple of areas over the FSM. The FSM is great for indepth things that most wont go to on these trucks.

Now would be a good time to clean the Plenum, EGR, Sensors if you are fixing a leak. The Throttle Body is held on with 3 bolts and 1 nut. Remove the whole assembly and do not messs with the TPS. Just leave it alone. You wont need to pull the Intake but if you want a little more info on the Plenum side https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f198...l#post52044719 Post 24, 25, and 35 show the seal to lube up well. It is the one that will cause a leak.

Once the Throttle Body is off and you have the Plenum off, I take it to the Plenum to the carwash and get all the carbon out. Check all ports and hoses. For what you are doing and cleaning everything for me is about a 2 hour job but I have done this a couple of times so will take you a little longer.

Just for a future reference for you, anytime when messing with fuel on the 22r/e motor, the starter is right below the fuel system and the battery has a hot wire running to it and is energized at all times. Disconnect the battery. Check for leaks by cranking a few times and when starting and you will be ok. Beyond just auto repair, go to your local fire department and learn the different classes of fires. Fire extinguishers are cheap and will pay for themselves quick. I am surprised at how many shops I have been in and no extinguisher is around.

paulman227

Stuck. I pulled out the injectors and sure enough the leaky injector was missing rubber and the rest were in rough shape. The problem now is: so are the plastic insulator tip things (pintle caps?). And my "local" auto stores do not have them or seem to know what Im talking about, even though the Napa website has them...

I see some kits on Ebay that include all the rubber and the pintle caps, and new filters for what seems a good deal. The problem there, they only seem to have them for the 1992 v6 and I have the 22re. Are the injectors the same? I sure don't mind having the extra 2 sets.

The truck is currently resting 1 hour from me (up on a mountain ridge), and 2.5 hours (1 way) from the nearest auto store. Looks like I'll have to order the parts, just want to make sure to get the right ones. Got to get this truck outta there.

Thanks everyone for all of the help!

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

If you are talking about the seal kit http://www.ebay.com/itm/270921195123...mtr&rmvSB=true I too have run into that problem at the local parts store. Seems like I tell them it is for an 88 and they can then find the kit. The seal kit is $4 a box and you will need four boxes to do the job. I would think that the V6 would be the same but not sure on that.

paulman227

I went with this one: http://www.ebay.com/itm/251613416713?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
I really need those pintle caps. I actually drove the 5 hour round trip to town today to get the only set that included the caps, got back to the truck....and they didn't fit.

Hopefully these work and I can get the truck back on the road.

Thanks again for your help.

bswarm

Are these what you're looking for...
Injector Cap set http://www.lceperformance.com/Fuel-I...-p/1065005.htm
Injector o-ring set http://www.lceperformance.com/22RE-2...-p/1065007.htm

scope103

The injectors for the 22re and 3VZE have different part numbers, but the part numbers for the o-ring, grommet, and insulator are the same for both.

There is no Toyota part number for the filter or the Pintle cap; those are strictly after-market.

DHWRIGHT

Next time just unplug the two wire connector on the back of the injector and limp it home on 3 cylinders.

millball

Hope you get your truck off the mountain before sombody else does.

paulman227

Injectors are in and sealed up nice, and the truck made it down the hill just fine.

Thanks much to all of your help!

bicklebok

Cool! Good job man!