1991 4x4 22re 5Spd Info Needed
07-22-2006, 04:02 PM
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1991 4x4 22re 5Spd Info Needed
Hey everyone,
I know there is info out there on things to look for when buying a 1991 4x4 22re 5spd but I do not have much time. My sister just saw one on the way home and the owner is looking to sell ASAP! The truck looks good overall. I have not had a chance to test drive it. I am hoping to test drive it tonite. But before I go I wanted to know what specific things to look for in this generation truck.
Any other things besides checking for oil leaks, wheel play in the front, rust, repaint, accident, listening for certain noises, etc. Any help would be much much appreciated.
Oh, I believe the guy is asking for $5100 and it currently has 151,000 miles on it. Would you say this is a fair or good deal?
Thanks
Steven
I know there is info out there on things to look for when buying a 1991 4x4 22re 5spd but I do not have much time. My sister just saw one on the way home and the owner is looking to sell ASAP! The truck looks good overall. I have not had a chance to test drive it. I am hoping to test drive it tonite. But before I go I wanted to know what specific things to look for in this generation truck.
Any other things besides checking for oil leaks, wheel play in the front, rust, repaint, accident, listening for certain noises, etc. Any help would be much much appreciated.
Oh, I believe the guy is asking for $5100 and it currently has 151,000 miles on it. Would you say this is a fair or good deal?
Thanks
Steven
07-22-2006, 04:12 PM
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Can't speak of the deal as I live in Canada only to say trucks of that vintage, mine included of course have insane resale value up here, but a few things:
1) A few normal wear items that I would imagine may be in need of replacing perhaps -Front Ball Joints & Idler arm. The Idler arm is the main cause of front end wheel play if it is present. There generally is always some very minor front end 3 to 9 o'clock play but there shouldn't be any excessive play.
2) There are probably saggy rear stock springs on it by now if they haven't been replaced. Perhaps worth looking at.
3) The Timing chain and timing chain guides. Has this been addressed/looked after. This is considered the only thing that is really a weak point on this engine, otherwise many consider it to be a bullet proof engine.
Another thing worth looking at "rust" wise is open the front door and there will be a little crevice there between the door sill and in behind the front mudflap near the carpet. Shine a light in there and see how much mud/dirt/sand is in there. Sometimes it accumulates if you don't wash it out and if it gets damp it will hold moisture and potentially cause rust in that area. Also check the front and rear fender lips underneath the trim if there is any. Sometimes you'll find minor rust there. Usually not a big deal - can probably be stopped if you just keep the rig waxed/clean, and/or you can treat it with POR-15 paint as an example, but perhaps something worth using as a negotitiating tool.
1) A few normal wear items that I would imagine may be in need of replacing perhaps -Front Ball Joints & Idler arm. The Idler arm is the main cause of front end wheel play if it is present. There generally is always some very minor front end 3 to 9 o'clock play but there shouldn't be any excessive play.
2) There are probably saggy rear stock springs on it by now if they haven't been replaced. Perhaps worth looking at.
3) The Timing chain and timing chain guides. Has this been addressed/looked after. This is considered the only thing that is really a weak point on this engine, otherwise many consider it to be a bullet proof engine.
Another thing worth looking at "rust" wise is open the front door and there will be a little crevice there between the door sill and in behind the front mudflap near the carpet. Shine a light in there and see how much mud/dirt/sand is in there. Sometimes it accumulates if you don't wash it out and if it gets damp it will hold moisture and potentially cause rust in that area. Also check the front and rear fender lips underneath the trim if there is any. Sometimes you'll find minor rust there. Usually not a big deal - can probably be stopped if you just keep the rig waxed/clean, and/or you can treat it with POR-15 paint as an example, but perhaps something worth using as a negotitiating tool.
07-22-2006, 04:17 PM
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[QUOTE=CoedNaked]Can't speak of the deal as I live in Canada only to say trucks of that vintage, mine included of course have insane resale value up here, but a few things:
1) A few normal wear items that I would imagine may be in need of replacing perhaps -Front Ball Joints & Idler arm. The Idler arm is the main cause of front end wheel play if it is present. There generally is always some very minor front end 3 to 9 o'clock play but there shouldn't be any excessive play.
How would I know if it is the Front Ball Joint or Idler arm? Could I tell just by looking under the truck at the suspension?
2) There are probably saggy rear stock springs on it by now if they haven't been replaced. Perhaps worth looking at.
The rear is not sagging yet according to my sister. She said it looks regular height. Not lifted but not sagging either.
3) The Timing chain and timing chain guides. Has this been addressed/looked after. This is considered the only thing that is really a weak point on this engine, otherwise many consider it to be a bullet proof engine.
Is the timing chain something easy to change? Also what is the cost involved w/ changing the chain or guides?
Thank you!
1) A few normal wear items that I would imagine may be in need of replacing perhaps -Front Ball Joints & Idler arm. The Idler arm is the main cause of front end wheel play if it is present. There generally is always some very minor front end 3 to 9 o'clock play but there shouldn't be any excessive play.
How would I know if it is the Front Ball Joint or Idler arm? Could I tell just by looking under the truck at the suspension?
2) There are probably saggy rear stock springs on it by now if they haven't been replaced. Perhaps worth looking at.
The rear is not sagging yet according to my sister. She said it looks regular height. Not lifted but not sagging either.
3) The Timing chain and timing chain guides. Has this been addressed/looked after. This is considered the only thing that is really a weak point on this engine, otherwise many consider it to be a bullet proof engine.
Is the timing chain something easy to change? Also what is the cost involved w/ changing the chain or guides?
Thank you!
07-22-2006, 04:23 PM
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one thing I found out "after" I bought mine is get in a parking lot lock hubs put it in 4L and start a donut it should start to bind up like it doesn't want to go (thats good) it means front diff. is working. BUT you could act all suprised and use that as tool to knock 1500$ or so off price. I got a 92 and gave 2500$ but it ended up having a blown head gasket ( not the end of the world) I'd write a check then have a mechanic check compression the next day good luck
07-22-2006, 04:29 PM
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[QUOTE=SoCal80]
Well about ball joints/idler arm. I can't tell you how to know if the ball joints are gone - my suspension shop deals with that. The idler arm would be the cause of any excessive play. I don't know if there is another way to check unless you had it jacked up and you could wiggle the front wheels from 3 to 9 to check for excessive play.
To check if the truck rides level measure the distance from the top of the rim, to the bottom of the fender trim on all 4 wheels. IF it rides level all the measurements will be equal give or take a 1/4" say.
As far as the timing chain is concerned, the owner should know if it's been done, perhaps provinded receipts in the process to show maintenance history. You should have a safety done on the truck anyways to have it fully checked out and see if things like this need to be done by a qualified mechanic.
Originally Posted by CoedNaked
Can't speak of the deal as I live in Canada only to say trucks of that vintage, mine included of course have insane resale value up here, but a few things:
1) A few normal wear items that I would imagine may be in need of replacing perhaps -Front Ball Joints & Idler arm. The Idler arm is the main cause of front end wheel play if it is present. There generally is always some very minor front end 3 to 9 o'clock play but there shouldn't be any excessive play.
How would I know if it is the Front Ball Joint or Idler arm? Could I tell just by looking under the truck at the suspension?
2) There are probably saggy rear stock springs on it by now if they haven't been replaced. Perhaps worth looking at.
The rear is not sagging yet according to my sister. She said it looks regular height. Not lifted but not sagging either.
3) The Timing chain and timing chain guides. Has this been addressed/looked after. This is considered the only thing that is really a weak point on this engine, otherwise many consider it to be a bullet proof engine.
Is the timing chain something easy to change? Also what is the cost involved w/ changing the chain or guides?
Thank you!
1) A few normal wear items that I would imagine may be in need of replacing perhaps -Front Ball Joints & Idler arm. The Idler arm is the main cause of front end wheel play if it is present. There generally is always some very minor front end 3 to 9 o'clock play but there shouldn't be any excessive play.
How would I know if it is the Front Ball Joint or Idler arm? Could I tell just by looking under the truck at the suspension?
2) There are probably saggy rear stock springs on it by now if they haven't been replaced. Perhaps worth looking at.
The rear is not sagging yet according to my sister. She said it looks regular height. Not lifted but not sagging either.
3) The Timing chain and timing chain guides. Has this been addressed/looked after. This is considered the only thing that is really a weak point on this engine, otherwise many consider it to be a bullet proof engine.
Is the timing chain something easy to change? Also what is the cost involved w/ changing the chain or guides?
Thank you!
To check if the truck rides level measure the distance from the top of the rim, to the bottom of the fender trim on all 4 wheels. IF it rides level all the measurements will be equal give or take a 1/4" say.
As far as the timing chain is concerned, the owner should know if it's been done, perhaps provinded receipts in the process to show maintenance history. You should have a safety done on the truck anyways to have it fully checked out and see if things like this need to be done by a qualified mechanic.
07-22-2006, 04:33 PM
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[QUOTE=CoedNaked]
Well about ball joints/idler arm. I can't tell you how to know if the ball joints are gone - my suspension shop deals with that. The idler arm would be the cause of any excessive play. I don't know if there is another way to check unless you had it jacked up and you could wiggle the front wheels from 3 to 9 to check for excessive play.
To check if the truck rides level measure the distance from the top of the rim, to the bottom of the fender trim on all 4 wheels. IF it rides level all the measurements will be equal give or take a 1/4" say.
As far as the timing chain is concerned, the owner should know if it's been done, perhaps provinded receipts in the process to show maintenance history. You should have a safety done on the truck anyways to have it fully checked out and see if things like this need to be done by a qualified mechanic.
I will make sure to bring a measuring tape w/ me when I go later.
Thanks for the info! I will see if my mechanic can get away for a hour or so to help me look the truck over.
Thanks again
Originally Posted by SoCal80
Well about ball joints/idler arm. I can't tell you how to know if the ball joints are gone - my suspension shop deals with that. The idler arm would be the cause of any excessive play. I don't know if there is another way to check unless you had it jacked up and you could wiggle the front wheels from 3 to 9 to check for excessive play.
To check if the truck rides level measure the distance from the top of the rim, to the bottom of the fender trim on all 4 wheels. IF it rides level all the measurements will be equal give or take a 1/4" say.
As far as the timing chain is concerned, the owner should know if it's been done, perhaps provinded receipts in the process to show maintenance history. You should have a safety done on the truck anyways to have it fully checked out and see if things like this need to be done by a qualified mechanic.
I will make sure to bring a measuring tape w/ me when I go later.
Thanks for the info! I will see if my mechanic can get away for a hour or so to help me look the truck over.
Thanks again
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07-23-2006, 05:15 AM
#8
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Check to see if the engine is warm when you get there. If it is they may have warmed it up to hide something.
On a cold start, you will hear the chain slap the side of the timing cover if the plastic guides are worn or broken. It will sound like a sharp knock for about 3-5 seconds then quit as the hydraulic tensioner pumps up. This isn't necesarrily a deal breaker, but will indicate that the timing chain replacement isn't far off.
The chain slapping the cover will eventually wear right through it and into the water pump cavity and you will have a sump full of water.
If this job needs to be done, expect to pay about $200 in parts to do it yourself. From what I'm seeing with us shadetree mechanics it is taking 3-4 weeks to get it done in the driveway. Or you can exoect to spend $800-1200 to get it done professionally. Even if you have it done I'd recommend getting the steel backed rail set from www.engnbldr.com and having them just put it in. This will eliminate this problem from coming back. My rebuilt 22re broke a rail and did all kinds of damage at 12k miles. Don't replace the set with another plastic set.
If they warm the engine up before you get there they may be hiding this, or a bad ring or valve seat problem. It is definitely best if it is cold when you get there.
If possible, if you're really worried about the condition I'd have a mechanic check it out.
Also $5100 sounded high to me and kbb confirms that. Use this as a reference guide only...
They do go up to $3900 if it is at a dealer though, but that is still way below what he is asking. I'd offer around $3000.
On a cold start, you will hear the chain slap the side of the timing cover if the plastic guides are worn or broken. It will sound like a sharp knock for about 3-5 seconds then quit as the hydraulic tensioner pumps up. This isn't necesarrily a deal breaker, but will indicate that the timing chain replacement isn't far off.
The chain slapping the cover will eventually wear right through it and into the water pump cavity and you will have a sump full of water.
If this job needs to be done, expect to pay about $200 in parts to do it yourself. From what I'm seeing with us shadetree mechanics it is taking 3-4 weeks to get it done in the driveway. Or you can exoect to spend $800-1200 to get it done professionally. Even if you have it done I'd recommend getting the steel backed rail set from www.engnbldr.com and having them just put it in. This will eliminate this problem from coming back. My rebuilt 22re broke a rail and did all kinds of damage at 12k miles. Don't replace the set with another plastic set.
If they warm the engine up before you get there they may be hiding this, or a bad ring or valve seat problem. It is definitely best if it is cold when you get there.
If possible, if you're really worried about the condition I'd have a mechanic check it out.
Also $5100 sounded high to me and kbb confirms that. Use this as a reference guide only...
They do go up to $3900 if it is at a dealer though, but that is still way below what he is asking. I'd offer around $3000.
Last edited by ovrrdrive; 08-13-2006 at 05:05 AM.
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