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| 86-95 Trucks & 4Runners 2nd/3rd gen pickups, and 1st/2nd gen 4Runners with IFS |
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#1 (permalink) | ||||
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Registered User
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Join Date: Mar 2013
Posts: 1
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1990 4Runner DD, lump of cash, where to start?
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#2 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Independence, CA
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I think you're on the right track with the 5 speed swap, but maybe not the 33's if you're going to tow. I'm not sure you can do suspension, 33's, and regear for $1,500.
I'm in Beaverton for a few more days right now, if you wanted to check out my rig for ideas, or advice. PM me if you want. It'd be a good idea to start by posting some more specs here, like your diff gear ratio currently in the rig. If you're lucky enough to have 4.88 stock, then the 5 spd swap should take care of your gearing needs for 33's, so it depends on current specs and condition.
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Jonny 1990 3.4 5spd 4Runner, 33" BFG AT's, 4.10's Open/Elocked...now with unlocking feature! http://www.yotatech.com/f199/jonnybo...-build-246420/ Tow rig in progress: 1969 F250 Camper Special, 31" dry rotted tires from 1992, D60 4.10's, 400 hp 390 10.1:1 CR Fuel saver 2001 Forester, all stock except 02 WRX springs "If at first you don't succeed, skydiving's not for you." -Unknown |
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#3 (permalink) | |
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Location: Ameliasburgh, On. Ca.
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His most likely has a axle code of G294 (4.10) go to a scrap yard and find a 92to95 with a code of G144 (4.88) pull the rear third and the front differential - swap these into your 4Runner. Also look for IFS manual hubs, not needed but nice to have!
For axle codes look at the drivers b-pillar and you will most likely see G294 (on yours, at the wreckers you will want to look for G144) Codes are as follows - these codes can end in 2 as well (4=4pinion turbo or v6, 2=2pinion 4cyl) The "G"= 8" Rear axle. G294 = 4.10:1 G284 = 4.30:1 G254 = 4.56:1 G144 = 4.88:1 As for the engine, if it is on its way out then by all means replace it if the price/time frame works for you. As for lift - Ball joint spacers and Cruiser coils/panhard drop bracket - relatively cheap (also pinch weld trim/pounding)will get you the clearance for 33's. 33x10.5's will fit pretty much stock, but are hard to find. The lift is where the manual hubs really come in. This set up is about as cheap/reliable as you can get for a lift. This is exactly what I am doing to my 90 4Runner. Then do the 5speed swap and bobs your uncle... If you have any questions about anything I have posted, feel free to ask! Hopes this helps...
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Quote:
Currently building - 1985 85 X-Cab SR5 - Rear 2wd F150 w/4" YJ Shackle, RUF, 2" Forward Front Axle, Crossover Steering w/Hydro Assist, Locked Front/Spooled Rear - 5.29:1, V6 Front Brakes/Master and Booster, Rear 85 X-cab calipers, 12" Bed Bob, Dual Cases, 36's, OBA and more... Build on Sontt.com (very slow build) http://www.sontt.com/forum/viewtopic...t=1100&start=0 Last edited by 91 4Runner; 03-19-2013 at 03:29 AM. |
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#4 (permalink) |
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i'm thinking if you have an automatic with a v6, you have 4:88's right now. If that's the case, you might be ok with those gears and 33's if you do the 5 speed swap. I like my 33x10.50's, as keeping the tires as light as possible on these trucks is pretty important. If you do the Marlin tranny, that will eat up a lot of your budget too.....just some thoughts i picked up on.
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My DD ext. cab build http://www.yotatech.com/f199/yamiryd...-build-264889/ Toyota Pickup Facebook page! http://www.facebook.com/ToyotaPickups |
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#5 (permalink) | |
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Location: Ameliasburgh, On. Ca.
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4.88's didn't start until 1992 - he will have 4.10
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Quote:
Currently building - 1985 85 X-Cab SR5 - Rear 2wd F150 w/4" YJ Shackle, RUF, 2" Forward Front Axle, Crossover Steering w/Hydro Assist, Locked Front/Spooled Rear - 5.29:1, V6 Front Brakes/Master and Booster, Rear 85 X-cab calipers, 12" Bed Bob, Dual Cases, 36's, OBA and more... Build on Sontt.com (very slow build) http://www.sontt.com/forum/viewtopic...t=1100&start=0 |
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#6 (permalink) |
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Location: Punxsy, PA
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ah, good catch.
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#7 (permalink) |
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Do a bit of reading on that motor, it doesn't seem especially popular... I was seriously considering it it myself but the research I did really put me off and pushed me towards a swap. YMMV, of course. If it runs alright I'd start with the lift and take care of all the steering and suspension components (bushings, balljoints, tie rode ends...) while I was in there before addressing the lack of power.
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#8 (permalink) |
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Location: Commonwealth of Northern Virginia
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first thing is to make your truck reliable
then 5sp conversion and then engine then gears and tires then lockers then armor then comfort unless you have other reliable transportation and don't mind tearing the truck down all at once. you could always go the 3.4L route instead of replacing the 3.0 with a 3.0 figure out how much weight the loaded trailer will be, and how much you can legally tow with your VIN truck. Just because you upgrade the engine does not mean you can legally tow something with more mass. just my opinion. Don't tear into a truck that you cant drive in the meantime. This is how we go overbudget or sell projects.
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1978 FJ40 GreenMan 1986 4Runner-33/1050KM2, 4.88s, ARB front bumper, Spartan locker rear... |
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#9 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: I live in New Tripoli Pa out in the woods
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Well first off welcome!!
I see this alot when people try and make projects out of a DD your doing every thing under lots of pressure .One snapped bolt or unforeseen failed parts can cause all kinds of interesting adventures. Mr Murphy and his daughters will be your constant companions and thoughts of a budget will be gone in a heart beat because of trying to get things done so your not walking to work. Then you run into the other issue unless your girl friend is involved pulling wrenches as well . Your not spending enough time with her in her eyes. Find another vehicle you can build as time and money permit allowing it to be fun and relaxing . Last edited by wyoming9; 03-20-2013 at 10:56 PM. Reason: spelling failure |
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| 1990, 31, 4runner, yj, yotatech |
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