Ballen

I AM NOT A MECHAINIC .
Ok this all started out because I had a bad oil leak from the front crank seal.
took everything apart pulled off the crank gear chipped it . got a new one replaced seal put new gear on .everything was good untill i was going to my new job. started to over heat bad . turns out the crank bolt came out and the pin that the timeing belt tensioner pivots on also came out of the water pump and put a hole in the radiator and it jumped time.my son snailed it home stopping every couple miles to add water and let it cool down.
Got new radiator ,new timeing belt new water pump ,(new starter and altinator ) long story ,put it back together and i know nothing about timeing.well after about 4 times of trying to set the timeing .I thought i had everything on the marks No 1 at tdc .start it and if started but will not stay running and it sounds different and smells very rich . So I figure mixture problem my son and i start looking around the throutle body and unplug a connection on the back and it starts and idels but boogs when you give it a quick shot of the gas pedal.and hear a lot of valve noise comeing from the drivers side. I have no timeing lite (never have used one ) could the valve noise be from the one side not being in perfect time with the other cam?
and would the richness and bogging be from a bad o2 sensor? thanks

Brian

MudHippy

Sounds to me like it could be the classic distributor installed 180° out(of time) syndrome.

What does that mean? It means you may have installed the distributor with the No.1 cylinder at TDC of the exhaust stroke. Instead of TDC of the compression stroke. Which means that the ignition timing is 180° off(out of time). Since the ignition's now firing the No.1 cylinder at/near TDC of the exhaust stroke. The ignition timing is exactly 180° off/out of time due to the fact that the distributor rotor turns at ½ the speed of the crankshaft. So after a full 360° rotation of the crankshaft, with the No.1 cylinder now at TDC of the compression stroke, the distributor rotor will be rotated 180° from the No.1 cylinder's ignition firing point(when the distributor rotor should be rotated 0° from it).

Use this to verify the correct procedure for distributor installation(and whatever else): http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-buchanan/93fsm/

If you need more help, feel free to ask.

TNRabbit

A bd O2 will cause poor mpg & rich condition. They should be replaced every 80-100k miles.


Other issues can cause your problems. Is the VAFM connected properly? Are BOTH SIDES cams aligned properly?

The Fuel Pressure Regulator can be mistaken for valve clicking--they tick like a muther. It's on the driver side just in front of the TB & behind the timing belt cover.

EDIT: Just read MH''s reply; good advice.

Ballen

never removed the distributor.
How do i tell if it is tdc of the exaust or tdc of the compression stroke.

rworegon

See page EG-43 for the cams and EG-41 for the crank. If the cams and crank is aligned as specified, the engine is at TDC.

http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...67timingbe.pdf

Ballen

Ya , I did look at those ,but it still doesn't tell how to tell if it is on the compression stroke or exaust stroke. Or am I missing something?

rworegon

Yes, you are....those instructions will put your engine at TDC which is where it has to be when placing the timing belt.

A short, sweet thread on the topic:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...t-pics-243630/

I have never thought about exhaust or compression stroke, just set as specified in the FSM and am good to go.

HighLux

Wouldnt even run with dizzy 180.


You prolly got the cam timing off. Your best bet it to search the site for a head gasket 3.0 thread and look at the pictures realted to cam timing.
Or fing a servicemanual online.

Do a google search and use " 3.0 headgasket replacement yotatech"

Dont go beyond your exp on a daily driver without research first.

rworegon

OP, see page EG2-46, step 14 a and b for the verification procedure after the belt is on and the tensioner is released.

Ballen

ok , Thanks to every one who helped . one problem is the new crank gear does not have a mark on it .The old one had a dimple.new has nothing ,but I took out the #1 plug and made sure is was at TDC, reset the cam gears to line up with the marks and put the belt on .But did not rotate the motor 2 rotations to see if they stay in line. Don't really how they could NOT be lined up if they where set right. But I will recheck tomarrow once the morning temp rises a little (no garage or even a shed).

Thanks and I will let ya know how it works out.

rworegon

Maybe, you could slip the old crank gear on, align it, remove it, and then slip the new one on.

What plug did you use as the #1?

Ballen

not a bad idea about the old gear I do still have sitting in the window sill in my kitchen.
I used the #1 plug front passenger side thats where the #1 wire was going to they are all marked. factory toyota wires.

one more ? just to make sure. you set the time for both sides off the #1 piston TDC ? correct? thats what I did . never worked on a dual overhead cam before .just helped on some old street rods.

TNRabbit

Compression stroke will have the VALVES CLOSED on that cylinder.

Ballen

1990 3vze 4runner 245,900 miles. new cap and rotor about 1 yr , needs plugs
ok ,timeing is good . but in order for it to start and idle I have to unplug a (something on the back side of the throtle body .

where the air gets sucked in just after that on the backside is a something that has a plug. unpluged it and it runs ,idles but if you step on the gas it dies, will stay running if you just barely push the gas pedal and pick up speed will not go over 50 still smells rich.

and what is better ? injection cleaner , or seafoam .never tried seafoam. new plugs next weekend just started new job truck will be sitting useing company truck until i get mine sorted out

jreyes94

Pictures of this "plug" would help. sounds like your TPS sensor though.
after you've installed the new spark plugs tell us what the old plug's condition are, maybe even a picture of them. i would use seafoam because it has more purposes. my rule of thumb is 1/3 can (16oz) in gas tank, 1/3 down brake booster vacuum line(line going into engine, pour slowly while running, rev engine around 2,000rpm until white exhaust becomes clearer) and 1/3 (or less) with the engine oil. This way you clean your injectors, intake valves and stems, top end of the cylinder wall and any grime in your oil passages.

Ballen

As far as the plugs go pretty much toast. they where burnt enough that the gap was at .060 intead of the .031 . regapped them just to make sure it ran when i was done with the timeing .will try to take a couple out if i get home in time tomarrow .

seafoam it is i guess

jreyes94

To me those plugs aren't even worth putting back in. Them being that damaged enough could be adding to your motor running lean. They most likely aren't producing a powerful enough spark per cylinder fire. It's a long shot but they could be only producing enough spark to idle but after opening the throttle they don't burn enough fuel for you to drive it.
Let us know what it runs like when you install new plugs.

Ballen

ya , I was kinda thinking that to .I know they need to be replaced .The only reason i put them back in was to keep moister out.but i don't get my first pay untill .the 11th. so that kinda sucks .bought plugs last year never put them in and when i tried i noticed they where wrong # for ngk plugs

Ballen

well heres is an update .

I AM DONE WITH IT .
FORSALE NOW SELLIN IT FOR ANYTHIMG OVER $650
I have a strong feeling that it bent some valves on the passenger side
I simply can not keep paying for parts and can not pay somebody to do the work so I have decided to cut my losses so i put it on craigslist for $1000 and got someone that may take it for $700 this sunday .

TNRabbit

The 3vze is a non-interference engine. Not sure how you would have bent valves.....