Notices
86-95 Trucks & 4Runners 2nd/3rd gen pickups, and 1st/2nd gen 4Runners with IFS
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by: DashLynx

1989 pickup 22RE very bouncy on any road imperfection

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 01-01-2012, 07:56 PM
  #1  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
sinful's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 130
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
1989 pickup 22RE very bouncy on any road imperfection

My truck is stock but for some reasson is very uncomfortable when going over any speed bump or road imperfection. Feels like I'm in a low rider bouncy all over the place and the rear feels too stiff. I'm suspecting someone may have messed with the rear suspension but not sure how to tell.

Is it possible someone may have added an additional leaf spring so the truck can carry more load?
Old 01-01-2012, 08:34 PM
  #2  
Contributing Member
 
rworegon's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Columbia River Gorge, Oregon...east side
Posts: 5,125
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Sure, someone could have added a leaf or did something else to the rear and it sounds like your shocks are tired i.e. the bouncy feel.
Old 01-01-2012, 08:42 PM
  #3  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
sinful's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 130
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
aren't tired shocks more like a stalled boat on water - feeling? soft and unstable.

I see the set of leaf springs when getting under the truck but not sure how many are supposed to be there for this particular 2WD truck? or do they only come in sets and additional single leafs cannot be added to the set?
Old 01-02-2012, 06:09 AM
  #4  
Registered User
 
blisters13's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Beaumont, CA
Posts: 14
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
It sure sounds like bad shocks on the front.

Inspect the front hocks- ANY oily dampness or drops of oil on them, they are bad.

If they are dry, make the front of your truck bounce up and down by hand as hard as you can (push down on the bumper then pull up on the bumper several times to get a good, hard bounce) and let go at the top of a stroke- good shocks will COMPLETELY stop the truck oscillations within two strokes (the second stroke should be half as high as the first).

If either of these items fails, change the front shocks before you worry about other possible problems.

Always change shocks in pairs and the same model.

Shocks don't just make for a good ride, they also keep the tires on the ground (critical safety item especially in wet weather), they help the tires from getting bad wear spots, and they keep the suspension from cycling too much and wearing out fast.
Old 01-02-2012, 08:24 AM
  #5  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
sinful's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 130
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
worn shocks? really?

also when going over a huge speed bump (we have many where i live), the rear seems to bounce the most hence reasson I think something is wrong with the rear.

Feels kind of like the front goes over the speed bump ok at more than normal passing speed (testing purpose), but then the rear pushes my body upward/forward violently.
Old 01-02-2012, 08:42 AM
  #6  
Registered User
 
alltracman78's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 126
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Definitely sounds like worn out shocks.
Either of those will work, 1st is easier.

Take a look at your rears too, from my experience rears tend to go before fronts.
Old 01-02-2012, 08:49 AM
  #7  
Registered User
 
alltracman78's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 126
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Your springs are what support the vehicle.
Your shocks dampen [control] the springs bouncing so they don't keep bouncing [like your truck is doing].
Old 01-02-2012, 01:12 PM
  #8  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
sinful's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 130
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
I went under the truck and shocks seemed okay from the outside. i will have to take them off tomorrow morning to make sure. but more importantly i noticed the bottom leaf spring don´t seem to belong there. it´s too thick and is not inside the set. I´ll take a pic and post it for you guys to judge
Old 01-02-2012, 01:23 PM
  #9  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
sinful's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 130
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
check

[IMG][/IMG]

[IMG][/IMG]

[IMG][/IMG]
Old 01-02-2012, 01:25 PM
  #10  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
sinful's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 130
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
is this normal?
Old 01-02-2012, 01:53 PM
  #11  
Contributing Member
 
Buck87's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: San Jose, CA
Posts: 709
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Looks normal. The spring on the bottom is an overload spring. When the truck bed gets overloaded to the point that all of the other springs flatten out the thick bottom spring will take the weight. Pick up trucks tend to have a stiff rear spring rate when empty so that they have the capacity to carry more load when needed.

Last edited by Buck87; 01-02-2012 at 04:08 PM.
Old 01-02-2012, 03:37 PM
  #12  
Registered User
 
sixstringslut's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: NW OH
Posts: 118
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Throw about 6 cement blocks back there (adjust as needed, don't forget to tie them together with something), you will be smiling.
My 88 only has two leaves and an OL. Is this a LWB?
Old 01-02-2012, 04:05 PM
  #13  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
sinful's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 130
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
i dont know man but.. this thing is just plain uncomfortable. will check shocks but doubt thats the problem
Old 01-02-2012, 04:35 PM
  #14  
Registered User
 
92dlxman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: visalia, ca
Posts: 278
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
those shocks look factory. they're old. replace them and i bet your a happy man
Old 01-02-2012, 04:50 PM
  #15  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
sinful's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 130
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
will do

when you compress good shocks they are supposed to slowly decompress - come back up, correct?
Old 01-02-2012, 04:53 PM
  #16  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
sinful's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 130
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by sixstringslut
Throw about 6 cement blocks back there (adjust as needed, don't forget to tie them together with something), you will be smiling.
My 88 only has two leaves and an OL. Is this a LWB?
whats LWB?

two leafs and an OL are supposed to be stiffer, correct?
Old 01-03-2012, 11:32 AM
  #17  
Registered User
 
VegasNaturist's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Henderson, NV
Posts: 66
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by sinful
whats LWB?
Long Wheel Base, IOW long bed vrs short bed.

Originally Posted by sinful
two leafs and an OL are supposed to be stiffer, correct?
The more leafs, the more load carrying capacity. But when the bed is empty, stiffer ride.

Like what was suggested, but some weight in the bed and road test.

John
Old 01-03-2012, 11:48 AM
  #18  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
sinful's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 130
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
okay I checked the rear shocks and they seem ok. compressed and expanded how they should. a little stiff to compress and took about 45 seconds to expand uncompress.
Old 01-03-2012, 12:14 PM
  #19  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
sinful's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 130
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
I know for sure the rear shocks are good in my case. they have plenty of tension to compress them, an example I was having a hard time compressing both when reinstalling them using one arm. I also checked them for any valve play and all good. And they expand on their own completely even upside down within 35-45 seconds.

However I did discover the driver side shock was not installed properly. The top bolt had broken off and someone welded a stud and used the wrong washer and nut to tighten it. I should taken a picture for a better explanation; basically you have the factory stud thats about 3/4 of an inch in diameter where the shock bushing slides into, right. so there's a back washer on the 3/4 diameter stud, shock/bushing, front washer and bolt to tight everything. In my case the 3/4 stud has a 3/8 diameter extension welded to it (i guess they decided to add a stud and instead of removing a probable broken bolt) and the coned shaped front washer is missing. Instead there's a regular washer and is not close to near touching the shock bushing once is tight.

Last edited by sinful; 01-03-2012 at 12:37 PM.
Old 01-03-2012, 12:23 PM
  #20  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
sinful's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 130
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
not sure if that would make any difference but I'm planning to use a 3/4 front washer so that I'm able to tighten the shock/bushing a little better since the 3/8 front washer isn't even near touching the shock/bushing when tightening them.


the factory washers have an coned angle that gets them closer to the shock/bushing. a flat washer wouldnt work. but in my case the welded stud won't allow any 3/8 washer wether is flat or cone shaped to be near. the weld wont allow it. so i have no choice but to use a big washer.

It probably won't make a difference but at least the shock will be tight.


Quick Reply: 1989 pickup 22RE very bouncy on any road imperfection



All times are GMT -8. The time now is 03:06 AM.