Todd Glenn

Hello,

New to the forum, I strayed from Toyotas to Jeeps for many years, but have realized the error in my ways and now have a Toyota again.
I traded a basket-case 68 CJ-5 for a clean 88 4x4 PU 22RE with a bad/noisy timing chain and am trying to get it on/off the road.

I have owned several 20R & 22R 4x4s, but nothing injected, 1980, 1982, 1983. I do have a straight axle to swap in if I like the truck once it is running.

I changed out the chain/cover/pumps and it is all back together.
It runs and drives OK, but I can not get the distributor timing to 5 degrees BTDC with or without the check connector shorted. In fact the short seems to effect nothing in regards to the timing.

In the initial distributor position, the most retarded I could get the timing was about 8 degrees BTDC. I pulled the distributor and moved it 1 gear tooth and I cant even get it advanced to 0 degrees in that setting. I do not know the history of the truck although it is unlikely someone messed with the gear/spun it 180 degrees on the distributor or anything crazy. The only idea I have is that I must have the timing chain off by one tooth (even though it was checked several times during assembly.) Before I pull the valve cover back off to check the chain, is there something I am missing?

There is no vacuum advance on the distributor to mess with. Is there a sensor or ? that could be causing this?

I set up the timing chain so that the cam pin was straight up 12:00 with the crank position TDC, That is correct, right? I believe that puts the dot on the top gear at about 11:50 or similar.

Thanks for your help.

dark_fairytales

You do describe the timing chain correctly, so I would guess that you are good with the timing chain.

You are correct about no vacuum advance on the distributor. Advancing the timing is all computer controlled on the RE's, and that is why when setting the time you must jump/short E1 and T1 (I think its E1 and T1 anyway, I did not feel like looking it up at this time).

If the engine does not drop in rpm when jumping the ports, there is some other issue taking place. The idle may already be too high, and the rpms will not drop when ports are jumped. Maybe the TPS needs adjusting, as you do not know what the PO did before. Worse case, maybe the diagnostic port is not functioning correctly, but I doubt that is the case.

If you do decide to play with the TPS, you should read this first so you can be prepared. https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116/timing-issue-1994-22re-291306/#post52292921

Todd Glenn

Thanks for the reply. I guess I got some learning to do about this fuel system. I didn't check the valve lash, so I might as well pull the cover off to check that too first. Thanks for the link. I'll do some more research. Thanks again.

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

Here is a couple of videos I like. I have had them to be dead on sometimes when doing the distributor.

A Timing Video I like Better. Set Crankshaft pulley to 5 degrees.
Timing Video
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9qEQM...ature=youtu.be



Easy way to install distributor on Youtube.

superex87

Something else to keep in mind. The crank pulley uses a rubber insulator to dampen vibrations. As the rubber ages the outer portion of the pulley can spin. This will not hurt anything but will make it hell trying to set the timing. Might want to pull #1 plug and use a thick zip tie to determine TDC.

maco35

I was having the same problem when trying to set timing on my truck, i ended up checking my TPS and it was fried, i replaced it and adjusted it and only then i was able to set timing on my rig. http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/TPS/index.shtml