natedawgg94

hey i just got this truck and having problems so here we go: first there is no EGR system everything is gone period, 2nd has a new weber carb and fabtech header installed less than 200 miles ago. i've replaced timing chain and set the timing with timing light. having problems with it running seems like i have a vacuum leak but like i said everything is gone. if anyone has deleted all the EGR please give me some advice here i really want this truck back on the road. i've tired to figure out how to bypass the egr vacuum lines with no luck still trying different ideas. any input will be greatly apperciated. thanks in advance.

natedawgg94

come on guys anyone???? how bout anyone with a crawler without egr could i get some input please. thanks

04 Rocko Taco

How'd you get an '87 with a carb'd motor? EFI was standard after 85. Someone did a swap. lol. and and an EGR delete apparently...

Willcipher

Actually, that's incorrect. The carburetor was available on the trucks until 1990. EFI was an option starting in 1985 and became standard on the 3rd gen trucks and 2 gen 4runners.

Regarding the EGR, or lack of, that in itself will not cause any running issues. It's primary function is to introduce exhaust back into the combustion chamber to reduce NO2 emissions. Some newer motors lack an EGR altogether (later 5VZFE) and rely on alternative ways to reduce emissions.

The trouble you have may be caused by an ailing ignition system, improper valve clearance, uneven compression, intake or carb air leaks or dirty/blocked idle passageways.

If it were me I would start by checking compression across all 4 cylinders, adjusting the valves, inspecting the rotor and cap, plugs and wires. If all those items were ok, then I would look for vacuum leaks on the manifold or the carb itself. The idle mixture may also be too rich or too lean.
Have fun

Willcipher

Regarding your vacuum lines, you will need to block off many of them since you're running a non-factory carb. You may want to re-examine the Weber documentation and attach or cap the hoses per their instructions, assuming there are any..

natedawgg94

thanks guys no instructions on the carb. plan on adjusting the valves this weekend i've already checked and replaced cap, button, plugs, and wires. i'll check to make sure all vacuum lines are capped this weekend also. the motor was rebuilt less than 5k miles ago but i will check the compression anyway. anything else anyone would like to add? i'll let ya'll know how it all pans out after the weekend since that's my only time to work on her.

natedawgg94

hey i took a shot in the dark this afternoon i removed the vacuum hoses from the distributor and plug all vacuum lines and reset timing to 0* truck ran a lot better is it okay to run like this or do i have to have the vacuumadvance hooked up? oh compression checked out to be close on all 4. thanks in advance

smitch

all i know is that i am lost reading all of it but my 86 pickup is a 22r carb motor

n4ynu1010

If I am not mistaken the Webers incorporate not only main jets but Idle jets as well , both need to be dialed in , not much fun when doing a aftermarket swap even with a nice carb like a weber , I had a GMC S-15 with a 3.4 roller motor in it with a synchronus 2 bbl Weber and about $80 worth of idle and main jets I got it dialed in and then it ran like a champ from then on , the tech's sometimes can help you start in a reasonable place but you have to dial that puppy in idle and mains , unless you have a computer mix monitoring device then its run it down the highway and check the color of the plug jetting for the main , idle jet should be about 2 turns out from seat if it is close to the right size .
Outside of that look for vacumn leaks (could be a intake gasket or cracked manifold worst case) , valve lash , timing and of couse critique the ignition closely .
Sure you got the timing chain in right , #1 TDC is 0 degrees on the crank ?
Let us know what you find

natedawgg94

yeah i know for sure the timing is right. it wasn't when i tore the motor down timing chain was a cheap made POS chain had all kinds of slack and tension was grooved bad. the guy i bought this truck from said timing chain was replaced bout 5k miles ago. man i don't want to go through the hassle of swapping jets.......... i'm going by a friends house this weekend to swap some parts off his running truck and see what i come up with. hopefully the truck will be striaght after this weekend. i did notice a bad vacuum line which will be replaced this afternoon.

n4ynu1010

Every time I have done a aftermarket (for that application motor) carb (generally a Weber) I have always had to dial it in for maxium performance (ie Dial the mixture in) across the rpm range , you'd be surprized at the the difference a couple of jet changes in the right direction , it will wake the motor up not to mention cleaning up some acceleration/stumbling/Idle problems .

natedawgg94

to bad you don't live any closer. could you give me a idea to start on the jets? i have a fresh 22r .040 over (bout 7k miles) weber w746, no EGR, and aftermarket header no sure of the brand, with 2" out the back. let me know if you need anything else. i changed the vacuum lines out last night and truck seems a lot better now i have a heater hose leaking so plan on changing that out this afternoon along with taking the aftermarket header off and replacing the gasket and swappping bolts one bolt isn't even touching the header.

n4ynu1010

Well its actually primitive and pretty simple , if your idle air adj is about 1.5 - 2 turns out from seated then that is good , if you are just a hair over 2 you could probably leave it be , so you need to go and turn your idle jets CW all the way in and count the turns if the setting you have now is a good smooth idle ( I always used synchronous 2 barrels so I had 2 idle adj's) you can count the turns with the engine off of course , do you have 2 separate Idle air mix screws (one for each barrel ) or just 1 .
Do you have it adj'ed well ?? If one idle adj screw you should be able to start motor -turn srew in until idle starts getting rough then back out slowly till smooth , I usually add a xtra 1/4 turn out from there ( and generally if it stumbles a bit off idle then you just need to fatten the Idle mix with the air) , at this time you should be about 1 1/2 to 2 turns out from seated , if you are further out than 2 turns for smooth idle then your jet needs to be smaller , if you are less than 1 1/2 then it needs to be larger jet , again if you are a little over 2 turns you could probably leave it but if you are under 1 1/2 turns I would fatten that jet .
As for the main jet the way we always did it without a high tech conputerized mixture monitor ...........was to go get on the highway / main road , run the motor full throttle in high gear for a stretch (we usually ran about a 1/4 to 1/2 mile) , cut the ignition off (clutch in and or neutral for auto ) pull to the side of the road and take the easiest plug out and look at the color of the plug and then fatten or lean that/those jets accordingly .
If you are familiar with motors you could probably just read the plugs now and if the color is white then you may want to fatten your mains until you see a tinge of bronze/very light brown , then you will probably be close to perfect .
The reason we always did the full throttle way was so when we were running that puppy wide open the mix would be right on since thats what we did was race .
Its not that hard but will make for good power gains if you are running too lean or too rich .
Worthwhile to check at the very least if you havn't done so or want to be sure its right

natedawgg94

k thanks i only have 1 adj. screw and it's out 3 turns and i've just cleaned the plugs so it'll be a day or 2 before i can check them or if i have time tomorrow i might try the wide open test. as far as the truck goes it's just a beater daily driver so mpg is mostly what i'll be needing. off road is rare work to much. thanks for the help.

n4ynu1010

Cool , let me know how it works out

natedawgg94

hey haven't had a chance to do anything yet been working 16 hrs a day. i've noticed a exhaust leak though and seems to be running rich. hopefully i'll be off this weekend to get these things fixed.

n4ynu1010

Cool , keep me posted , I am subscribed to thread , working on house so may be a couple of hours in between checking post's

natedawgg94

yeah if i would have thought that info you just filled me in on would have been helpful on here instead of a pm. Iknow one thing whoever made flat flanged exhaust sucks. Vbands are the stuff and might possibly be headed to the header on the truck. dislike exhaust leaks A LOT>

n4ynu1010

Yeah me too , in the last year I have had to replace pretty much all the exhaust systems on 4 cars , bad year , I hate them for that reason , so I should be Ok for a while now .

natedawgg94

hey checked the plug today and it is a little chalky white not bad just a touch.