Philbert

iTrader: (2)

Hi guys,

So, my SR5 came with power window and locks from the factory. But, 8 years ago, when I was a (complete) newb, the passenger window stopped working (Neither the master switch or passenger door switch did anything with the window). Since I didn't know what I was doing, I bought a manual regulator, used crank handle, and swapped it out. I ended up with a working power drivers side window, and a manual passenger side window regulator.

Present day: so 8 years later, I decided that I want to bring my Yota back to life in small ways - one of them was to refresh the passenger power window setup.

I bought a regulator and motor at a Colorado junkyard - Ron Helmuth here on Yotatech helped procure, test, and ship to me - thanks Ron!!! Today, I tore apart the door, installed it, and am stuck.....

Note: I no longer have the passenger side power window switch - Doh! I do have the drivers side master switch. I took it apart, and it looks like the prongs for actuating the passenger window were not 100% flush with the ground (?) plate....however, I manually bent it back to make contact, and it hasn't changed anything.


The motor on the passenger regulator works - I tested it on the drivers side plug, and I installed it on the passenger side, and used the car battery to raise it into place. So, as it stands, the passenger motor is installed, and the window is up...I just *cannot get power to the passenger window*

I did a continuity test on the drivers side window motor plug, while the key was in ACC position (enabling power windows), and when I stick in 2 prongs of the multimeter, I get 0 OHMs resistance (resistance is infinite when not in ACC position, so I assume this must be what's supposed to happen when the key is in ACC, since that window/switch works). When I do the same test on the passenger side, I still get infinite resistance. I thought it might have to do with the passenger side window switch plug leaving a circuit open...so I jumped the plug until I got a 0 OHMs reading on the window motor plug (mirroring what I had happen on the drivers side). So, with the window switch plug jumped, I plugged in the passenger side window motor to the one in the door, and turned the key to ACC....and tried the master switch on the drivers side....no dice....worked for the drivers side stil, but not for passenger side :/


So, wondering what next to do.

1) Does the passenger window switch plug need to be jumped at all? (I'll get a switch eventualy, but just want to get it working from the drivers side for now..).

2) Is there a way to test the passenger window motor plug/wires for a short? I don't know where to start on that one.

3) Is there a better way to test the master switch/fix it?

4) anything else obvious Iam missing?




Passenger window switch plug jumped, shown next to the passenger window motor plug:




The back of the master window/lock switch from the drivers door. The switch on the right in this photo is the passenger window switch.



And the front (problem switch on the left this time):



The power window plug, power window switch plug and the reflector light plug on the passenger side:

Philbert

iTrader: (2)

53 views and no ideas? :/

I spent more time looking at the switch today but am stuck. Sprayed on CRC electrical contact cleaner and let it sit overnight.....

Philbert

iTrader: (2)

115 views, come on you electric experts

So, I repaired the switch (grinded off rivet, straightened prong, re installed and soldered tests fine....but still no power over on the passenger side.

Today, I removed the wiring harness from the drivers side door (along with about 4 plugs that attach under the dash)....tested resistance among the wires from the passenger side switch and I continuity just fine. Also tested with other connectors in the same harness, in case some wires had lost insulation and were crossing over - everything tested clean.

So I am under the impression now that the drivers side switch and harness are fine...I guess I'll remove the dash and harness on the passenger side and look for shorts/corrosion there.

Anyone else have this issue and resolve it? Or recommend a different test to do next?

Phil

Philbert

iTrader: (2)

OK guys - update:

I removed the wiring harness for both the passenger and driver side pwoer windows/locks and tested continuity for the wires that lead to the motors, and to the switches.

Everything checks out - there isn't any crossover with other leads (no shorts).

So, I gues I need to figure out where the wiring harnesses lead to inside the dash...UGH!

Any shortcuts you guys can recommend?

scope103

Mine is a '94, and that's the diagrams I have. What is the chance that an '87 has the same connections?

Well, my diagrams show that the driver's side switch runs across the vehicle on Red/Blk and Red/Grn. With no switch, both of those are gnd. With the driver's side switch "down" one is + and other gnd, and with the switch in the "up" position the polarity reverses.

For starters, that is what I would be looking for on the driver's side switch. (ground on both, then reversing polarity depending on switch position). According to my diagrams (which don't apply to you), the wire colors from the switch (which I can't tell from your photos) should be the same at the 5-connector socket on the passenger side. So long before you start taking the dash apart, see if you can trace the wire by color from the driver's side switch to that connector.

Then, foolishly assuming that your connector is anything like mine, you would jump the pair from the driver's side switch to the pair to the window motor (which my diagram says is blue/orange and blue/grn). (The order determines the window direction; hook it up, if the window goes opposite the switch, reverse them.) The fifth wire on that connector (blue/red) should be 12v with key-on. You'll need the fifth wire when you get the passenger side switch.

Let us know what you find.

dwest76

maybe a stupid question (but it's happened to me)........you don't have the "Window Lock" activated on the Driver's Master Switch do you?

I recently repaired my power set-up and couldn't get the Passenger side to work until I figured out that unless that tab has contact there isn't any power over there. d'oh.

Philbert

iTrader: (2)

Thanks Scope - that's great insight and I'll try the jumping method next time I get in there (would eliminate any behind the dash issues if it still does not work).

@ dwest - 99% positive I toggled that lock switch as well at the time. Of course I'll try it just once more when I try the jumping method, just to be sure.

Thanks guys - new to electronics on cars so this stuff is really daunting - but this really helps.

I'll report back soon.

Phil

Philbert

iTrader: (2)

Yay!

Got it fixed today finally.

Thanks to Scope's reply earlier, I learned a lot about how power window switches work, and was able to trace all the wires through the dash to ensure that they worked, and avoid removing the dash - whew!

Turns out it was a mix of things:
- Master switch was broken - had to remove prong, straighten, and reinsert and solder
- Passenger window lock switch was reversed, so I don't think it was completing the circuit as needed.
- I don't have a passenger door switch yet; due to the nature of the reverse polarity of window switches, you need to short out 4 pairs of wires going to this switch plug, to maintain the grounding that SHOULD be there....I created some jumper wires and wrapped it up in electrical tape.

So, now it all works as it should. All I need is a passenger side window switch to complete everything


Oh, and now my hazard switch no longer works :/


Thanks guys!

Phil

Philbert

iTrader: (2)

So here's something interesting....I'm all done, and now some things don't work.

My horn and emergency flashers stopped working right after this (worked before). They share the same 15A fuse in the engine bay, which is blown now....

My dome light and the 2 lights by my rear view mirror also stopped working (bulbs are fine, and fuse seems fine)....

And, last but not least, my stereo won't turn on. I checked the fuse on the head unit and it's fine. This one shares a circuit/fuse with other things in the cab that DO work....so I am stymied.

Any idea why these things would stop working and what to start with? All I did was disconnect plugs under the dash, and turn the key to ACC while I was testing the power window switch - I didn't use or turn on any of these things. I had doors open for a long time, so the dome light was one for some time, but the bulb looks ok and all 3 lights stopped working all of a sudden....


so strange...any ideas?

GreenFlames

replace the 15A fuse?

Philbert

iTrader: (2)

Of course I will

Just wondering what caused it to go?

And, the radio, and the lights - that doesn't make sense since other things on the same circuit are still working..

Philbert

iTrader: (2)

Funny thing...I just replaced the 15A fuse for the flashers and horn and ... TA DA! The radion works again. Guess the Fry's tech in 2002 found a wire to use and grabbed it

If I could just figure out the dome light thing now.....