1986 22re battery/wiring harness help.
#1
1986 22re battery/wiring harness help.
So I just finished putting my 22re back together yesterday but I have a problem.
I just went to autozone and bought a brand new battery (the old one was dead and wouldnt charge) when I got home I hooked everything up and turned the key to accessory to see if I had any power, but sadly I was mistaken. I've mad sure all the ground wires are hooked up and where they should be. I'm almost 100% positive that I've gotten all the connectors from the wiring harness plugged in the right places. the only ones I haven't connected are the cold-start injector only because I have to get it to reach, a light blue one that two vacuum lines plug into and go to the charcoal canister and a green one that im not quite sure where it goes. so my question is, what would make it so I i dont have any electric power at all? really noobish question but I need some help. thanks in advance.
I just went to autozone and bought a brand new battery (the old one was dead and wouldnt charge) when I got home I hooked everything up and turned the key to accessory to see if I had any power, but sadly I was mistaken. I've mad sure all the ground wires are hooked up and where they should be. I'm almost 100% positive that I've gotten all the connectors from the wiring harness plugged in the right places. the only ones I haven't connected are the cold-start injector only because I have to get it to reach, a light blue one that two vacuum lines plug into and go to the charcoal canister and a green one that im not quite sure where it goes. so my question is, what would make it so I i dont have any electric power at all? really noobish question but I need some help. thanks in advance.
#2
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You get zero power at all?
Check fuses?
believe that you have a + line running to the starter, and another running from the + terminal to the fusebox (this recharges the battery, and connects to the alternator through the wiring harness). The - grounds to the block, and also to the body/fender.
Photos would help us help you more. Getting a "click" or nothing at all when you turn the key? lights come on?
Check fuses?
believe that you have a + line running to the starter, and another running from the + terminal to the fusebox (this recharges the battery, and connects to the alternator through the wiring harness). The - grounds to the block, and also to the body/fender.
Photos would help us help you more. Getting a "click" or nothing at all when you turn the key? lights come on?
#3
Thanks for the reply philbert. I'm not getting a "click" and no lights come on at all. I have the big green plug running to the starter from the harness plugged in, I never unplugged any from the alternator (but I'm checking right now), all fuses in the engine bay are good. I'm not really sure what to take a picture of, so what kinda pictures are you looking for? I'll just take picture of the engine bay, intake side, exhaust side and what ever else I think will help.
#5
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check your ground(s). and make sure the body and engine are grounded together. fallow the wires coming of the battery terminals and see where there isn't power.
check all fuses in the cab.
especially the 15amp IGN/EFI fuse.
check all fuses in the cab.
especially the 15amp IGN/EFI fuse.
Last edited by FattMaanLittleTruck; 05-22-2013 at 09:43 PM.
#6
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In your last pic there should be one more fuse link to the right of the red one that says "30A" on it.
It will be a "80A" and is the MAIN power wire for the whole truck.
Yours looks like it got smashed to hell and most likely is broken.
It should look like the "30A" and "40A" but will be black. It will have the same clear plastic cover on it.
Most any auto parts store will have this 80 Amp Fuse Link and you can find instructions here on yotatech on how to change it.
99% sure this is your issue.
It will be a "80A" and is the MAIN power wire for the whole truck.
Yours looks like it got smashed to hell and most likely is broken.
It should look like the "30A" and "40A" but will be black. It will have the same clear plastic cover on it.
Most any auto parts store will have this 80 Amp Fuse Link and you can find instructions here on yotatech on how to change it.
99% sure this is your issue.
Last edited by SoCal4Running; 05-22-2013 at 09:57 PM.
#7
Need Fusible Link Wire and Fusible Link "Fuse"
In your last pic there should be one more fuse link to It will be a "80A" and is the MAIN power wire for the whole truck.
Yours looks like it got smashed to hell and most likely is broken.
It should look like the "30A" and "40A" but will be black. It will have the same clear plastic cover on it. 99% sure this is your issue.
Yours looks like it got smashed to hell and most likely is broken.
It should look like the "30A" and "40A" but will be black. It will have the same clear plastic cover on it. 99% sure this is your issue.
SoCalRunning is talking about this Fusible Link (FL) which is inside a black plastic module:
Philbert is talking about this Fusible Link (FL). He knows where to get replacement
Ring terminal connects directly to positive battery terminal, while brass plate screws directly to the terminal of the 80-Amp FL.
Then, look at schematic to make sure you have all the wires connected to fuses properly. If you don't have schematic, PM me so I can send you that section.
Last edited by RAD4Runner; 05-23-2013 at 12:12 AM.
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#8
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+100 internet points for Ray (RAD) - he's spot on and those photos are great.
Depends on what gauge wire is used from the bottom of that missing fuse to the alternator harness wire. You can buy "fusible link wire" from any auto store - make sure it's 4 "gauges" lower than the wire you're trying to protect. I ran 10 gauge wire from this post to my battery for recharging, and used 14 gauge fusible link to protect it (higher gauge=smaller size). I used metal "parallel connectors" to crimp the wires to the fusibile link to the wire again (you use a fusible link piece that's a few inches long is all), then soldered and hat shrinked it. Fusible links are like fuses but they are designed to slowly burn and break before too much current passes through, whereas fuses just blow once with a slight current spike.
Either way, that fuse itself that is missing/smashed...that's likely a big part of your problem and is an easy fix
GL
Depends on what gauge wire is used from the bottom of that missing fuse to the alternator harness wire. You can buy "fusible link wire" from any auto store - make sure it's 4 "gauges" lower than the wire you're trying to protect. I ran 10 gauge wire from this post to my battery for recharging, and used 14 gauge fusible link to protect it (higher gauge=smaller size). I used metal "parallel connectors" to crimp the wires to the fusibile link to the wire again (you use a fusible link piece that's a few inches long is all), then soldered and hat shrinked it. Fusible links are like fuses but they are designed to slowly burn and break before too much current passes through, whereas fuses just blow once with a slight current spike.
Either way, that fuse itself that is missing/smashed...that's likely a big part of your problem and is an easy fix
GL
#10
Wiring is not my strong suit.
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