1986 22re 4x4 runs great cold, then gets warm and runs awful...
12-21-2016, 07:49 PM
#41
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Co_94_PU I didnt leave the test port jumpered, also no ne pushed the gas pedal while it was checking codes, AC hasnt been turned on.
12-21-2016, 07:55 PM
#42
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Describe what you mean by "timing was set." How did you set the timing? Usually you can't get into base timing mode if you're throwing a code 11, and you need to be in base timing mode to set the timing correctly.
Have you checked that the crank, cam, distro all line up at TDC? Have you checked for intake leaks?
If your exhaust manifold is glowing, it's either timing, an extremely lean air fuel mixture, a combination of the two, or an obstruction in the exhaust. Obviously not a cat blockage issue as you don't have one.
Lean air fuel ratio can be from a few things, but let's not get carried away. You have a code 11, which deals with the TPS, which the ECU uses to understand how much air is coming into the engine (in conjunction with the AFM). But you say that the TPS tested out fine. If that's actually the case, there probably is a intake/vacuum leak somewhere in between the AFM and throttle body, and/or and intake/vacuum leak somewhere in between the throttle body and the intake side of the head, causing the extremely lean condition. (Big leak)
You also threw a code 6 at one point meaning the ECU has no engine revolution signal(NE) or the Ne signal is over 1000 RPM in spite of no Ne signal to ECU. 22re engines don't have a cam or crank sensor to count revolutions. The Ne signal comes directly from the distributor, so if the NE signal is out of whack check to see if; the pickup is fried, air gap issue, the igniter signal is fried, igniter itself is fried, wiring issue somewhere between distributor pickup and igniter, wiring issue between igniter and ECU, distributor was stabbed wrong, timing somehow skipped teeth. All these can cause timing advance issues and too much timing advancement issues.
Have you checked that the crank, cam, distro all line up at TDC? Have you checked for intake leaks?
If your exhaust manifold is glowing, it's either timing, an extremely lean air fuel mixture, a combination of the two, or an obstruction in the exhaust. Obviously not a cat blockage issue as you don't have one.
Lean air fuel ratio can be from a few things, but let's not get carried away. You have a code 11, which deals with the TPS, which the ECU uses to understand how much air is coming into the engine (in conjunction with the AFM). But you say that the TPS tested out fine. If that's actually the case, there probably is a intake/vacuum leak somewhere in between the AFM and throttle body, and/or and intake/vacuum leak somewhere in between the throttle body and the intake side of the head, causing the extremely lean condition. (Big leak)
You also threw a code 6 at one point meaning the ECU has no engine revolution signal(NE) or the Ne signal is over 1000 RPM in spite of no Ne signal to ECU. 22re engines don't have a cam or crank sensor to count revolutions. The Ne signal comes directly from the distributor, so if the NE signal is out of whack check to see if; the pickup is fried, air gap issue, the igniter signal is fried, igniter itself is fried, wiring issue somewhere between distributor pickup and igniter, wiring issue between igniter and ECU, distributor was stabbed wrong, timing somehow skipped teeth. All these can cause timing advance issues and too much timing advancement issues.
I have checked for intake leaks with carb cleaner, the timing was set by a mechanic here in town. He did the jump to check for advance timing. Im going to check the tps again tonight and follow what 4crwler recommends, Maybe this will tell me something. Im sorry I dont know more, I have never been mechanically inclined and just recently found a interest in it. I cant tell you guys how much I appreciate your help! My family has two vechicles, this is one of them. Thank you all for your help and guidance
12-21-2016, 08:11 PM
#45
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There are two wires that run from your distributor to your igniter and there are two wires (ran side by side in a protective sleeve in stock formation) that run from the igniter on the drivers side, over the exhaust manifold, over to the passenger side, through the firewall, and into the ECU. Check that none of those are damaged.
12-21-2016, 09:26 PM
#46
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UPDATE I believe I found a problem,
checking the tps per 4crawler instructions I found a issue I believe.
First test VTA-E2 read .80
Second test IDL-E2 nothing, wouldnt even register if I opened up throttle, not a thing just 1_. on my meter
Third test, same as second test
Fourth test VTA-E2 read 5.54
Now it rises and drops on the meter when I turn the throttle un and down without any dead spots but the test 2 and 3 tell me something could be wrong when it leaves from idle
checking the tps per 4crawler instructions I found a issue I believe.
First test VTA-E2 read .80
Second test IDL-E2 nothing, wouldnt even register if I opened up throttle, not a thing just 1_. on my meter
Third test, same as second test
Fourth test VTA-E2 read 5.54
Now it rises and drops on the meter when I turn the throttle un and down without any dead spots but the test 2 and 3 tell me something could be wrong when it leaves from idle
12-22-2016, 04:37 AM
#47
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UPDATE I believe I found a problem,
checking the tps per 4crawler instructions I found a issue I believe.
First test VTA-E2 read .80
Second test IDL-E2 nothing, wouldnt even register if I opened up throttle, not a thing just 1_. on my meter
Third test, same as second test
Fourth test VTA-E2 read 5.54
Now it rises and drops on the meter when I turn the throttle un and down without any dead spots but the test 2 and 3 tell me something could be wrong when it leaves from idle
checking the tps per 4crawler instructions I found a issue I believe.
First test VTA-E2 read .80
Second test IDL-E2 nothing, wouldnt even register if I opened up throttle, not a thing just 1_. on my meter
Third test, same as second test
Fourth test VTA-E2 read 5.54
Now it rises and drops on the meter when I turn the throttle un and down without any dead spots but the test 2 and 3 tell me something could be wrong when it leaves from idle
Once you you get the TPS issues hammered out, check to see if there are still codes, then clear em. Then you should be able to start her up and there's 2 connectors that are plugged in next to each other on the inner fender. Jump the wires in the smaller of the 2 connectors. You should notice an audible drop in rpm, meaning you are in base timing mode. Let her get up to full operating temp. Then time her with a light to no more than 5* advance for now, I'd honesty set her to 0* first. See if ya still get a rudolf manifold.
All this heat from the glowing manifold causes expantion and contraction of the metals involved, which is why I wouldn't be surprised if there were some intake leaks (intake manifold to head, EGR to intake mani, EGR to head) and even exhaust leaks (manifold to head). Also, if ya have power steering, those vacuum lines are damn close to a red hot manifold, make sure they are complete and intact.
Last edited by RASALIBRE; 12-22-2016 at 04:39 AM.
12-22-2016, 11:43 AM
#48
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Today I decided to run some seafoam through the brake booster line. As soon as I unplugged it the truck went dead. It wont run without it connected or stopped up. I put the line in the seafoam and crunk up the truck and holy hell! A amzing amount of smoke can from around the engine, kinda around the valve cover amoung other places, stilll looking for vacuum leaks
12-22-2016, 11:54 PM
#50
You shouldn't be getting any blow-by coming out of the valve cover gasket. Blow by is the gas that escapes around the piston rings into the crank case. If it's chuffing out of the valve cover to head interface, it's really loose or there is a problem. Replacement PCV valve is under 5$ it's a typical tune up oil change maintenance item.
On the other hand the PCV system is working and the valve cover is loose enough to leak out vapor it wouldn't be a stretch for it to suck air in either and thus a vacuum leak.
That smoke was probably coming from elsewhere. Since you didn't say or show us I'll assume it was the exhaust side. Was a new gasket used when you put the exhaust manifold on, the exhaust nuts aren't reusable either and might have backed out if reused.
On the other hand the PCV system is working and the valve cover is loose enough to leak out vapor it wouldn't be a stretch for it to suck air in either and thus a vacuum leak.
That smoke was probably coming from elsewhere. Since you didn't say or show us I'll assume it was the exhaust side. Was a new gasket used when you put the exhaust manifold on, the exhaust nuts aren't reusable either and might have backed out if reused.
12-23-2016, 12:04 AM
#51
You want to verify if the TPS needs adjusted or replaced, now that you have identified that the computer isn't receiving the idle signal.
Adjustment is covered in detail. Basically you'll need to loosen both screws, adjust the sensor to it's extreme and test IDL to E. If you don't get a reading at either end is faulty and needs replaced. If you get a response it just needs adjusted, following the directions.
Adjustment is covered in detail. Basically you'll need to loosen both screws, adjust the sensor to it's extreme and test IDL to E. If you don't get a reading at either end is faulty and needs replaced. If you get a response it just needs adjusted, following the directions.
12-23-2016, 12:17 AM
#52
I have the a d d
With the sensor unplugged, Yes. It runs a limp mode using just the engine load as measured by the VAFM. This is an extra rich condition as a safety measure but should be avoided for long term use for all the reasons over fueling are bad.
Coincidentally my TPS is unplugged. There is a post on my Turbo thread if you want to see how to fix loose connections on the circuit board. Internally mine showed less than 30% wear, but they do wear out and I didn't cover laying down new resistance tracks.
With the sensor unplugged, Yes. It runs a limp mode using just the engine load as measured by the VAFM. This is an extra rich condition as a safety measure but should be avoided for long term use for all the reasons over fueling are bad.
Coincidentally my TPS is unplugged. There is a post on my Turbo thread if you want to see how to fix loose connections on the circuit board. Internally mine showed less than 30% wear, but they do wear out and I didn't cover laying down new resistance tracks.
01-08-2017, 07:34 PM
#53
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HUGE Update!!! SO.... I am lucky enough to have a father in law that has a best friend that is a solid mechanic. I got the truck to his house and his buddy came down and done his magic. Problem has been a bad exhaust manifold from day one. My step dad is a okay mechanic but he never got the new exhaust manifold on right, it leaked awful. Thats where the smoke was coming from when I put seafoam through it. So he got it on right and BAM! truck runs like new, Im talking it runs and has a ton of power for us 22re owners. On my way home after driving for two days to work, I hear a awful noise, I thought it was the exhaust manifold again, nope. Number 2 spark plug blew out of the engine. Im assuming last mechanic didnt put in in good and it acted like a welding rod all up the threads. It is serioously messed up but thankfully he believes he can fix it. Stay tuned as the 1986 gets a operation on her way back to 100%
