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1986 22R Bad Timing and Bad MPG

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Old 09-03-2011, 06:59 AM
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1986 22R Bad Timing and Bad MPG

I bought a 1986 Pickup 4x4 Delux last weekend for a commuter. It has the 22R in it. The truck is solid, only 118k original miles. My brother-in-law has the same truck, and he's getting 24 mpg (mostly highway). I'm only getting 15 in mixed driving. I've read a lot of the forums on increasing fuel economy, and tried a couple of the suggestions this morning. I found two things that concern me...
First suggestion I got from everyone was to change the fuel filter. I think this helps more with fuel injected engines since they require higher fuel pressure, but I did it anyway. The existing one looked new, but now I know it is new.
Second, I checked the timing. This where my first concern is. I disconnected the vacuum advance and it had absolutely zero vacuum. I plugged it anyway. I checked the timing and it was off the indicator plate. I'm guessing it was around 16 degrees advanced. My B-I-L said he keeps his at 8 degrees, and I've read that it should be 0 with the VA plugged, and 12 with it open. I couldn't get mine lower than 12 without it choking out and wanting to die. 14 is as low as I could set it. This, obviously, is my second concern.
I have read that the major downfall of the 22R is that it only has a single roller timing chain, and it is notorious for stretching and messing with the timing. At only 118k miles, I'm assuming the original owner didn't change it. Could this be the problem?

History on truck:
I'm the third owner. Original owner was a HS football coach. Drove it 5 miles to and from work on Oklahoma dirt roads. Second owner bought it from him last year and sold it to pay back taxes.
New:
Carb (Aisin)
Clutch master
Brakes
Exhaust
Plugs
Wires
Cap
Rotor

Front and rear diffs serviced recently (although the rear is leaking and I get a bad shimmy north of 45 mph)

Sorry for the long post, but I need help. I bought it expecting 20-22 mpg in my mixed commute. 15 won't cut it. It will go on Craigslist if that's all I get. There are a lot of options out there at the 15 mpg range that will fit my family better!
Old 09-03-2011, 07:38 AM
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A stretched timing chain isn't gonna affect ignition timing that much. Not 12 degrees anyway. What might is a jumped timing chain. And there is 2 vacuum advances on the 22r's. 1 rear and one front. One if full advance (front) the other is like half advance (back). Only one works at a time. Front normal operating term and Back when cold. Your right it's supposed to be 0 degrees. with both off and plugged. 0 degrees should be in the middle of the distributor bolt notch.

check this thread as well. https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f114...91/index2.html
Old 09-03-2011, 10:41 AM
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Note to self... correct fuel before ignition!
Correction to previous post, I changed the fuel filter after I checked the timing. I just drove it again, and it feels like it should. It's got it's pep back (chirped the tires!).

I read the thread you suggested. Due to the fuel flowing properly now, I was able to back the timing all the way to the stop, which put it at 8. Based on your other post, do I need to move the dizzy back one tooth? You said it should be in the middle of the adjustment slot at 0.
When I torque it back to 8, it runs like doodoo. I learned on my old '84 Chevy 350 how to time by ear. It runs best right now at 14, so that's where I'm leaving it until I get this thing figured out.

I'm hoping I can get the timing right without messing with the chain. 15 years ago, ya, I'd do it, but I'm too rusty now to confidently get it done.


Thanks for your help. It's been a while since I had a REAL truck...


While I'm here...

I want a good, cheap open element air filter. Any suggestions?
Also, what are some other suggestions to maximize fuel economy? I'm running 235's, and I'm thinking about dropping to stock 225's. This is my daily ride until I can afford something new, then it will become my toy!
Old 09-03-2011, 10:44 AM
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86 is 0 degrees and should be almost dead center of that adjustment "window". If it's not either the distributor is off a tooth or the the cam is off.

Open element on a factory carb is gonna be a little expensive to change out, only a few options out there to convert.
Old 09-12-2011, 03:41 PM
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xxxtreme, can you listen to this and help me figure out what's going on?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?\v=-L_1dPhaRsI
Thanks for all your help, by the way.
I have my timing chain kit, I just need to find the time to get it in.
Old 08-20-2013, 08:04 AM
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So the fuel filter really made that big of difference???
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