jcm151

Sounds like a much better Idea.. I am still trying to figure out how to make sure I get the wires to the right places though, as earlier in this thread someone said a mechanic found that some of the jag alts terminals are not the same as a toyota denso alt terminals.. Which is why people were killing their rotors, batteries, etc? Any info helps.

I guess I can buy the alt, take it to an alt shop and they can test em for me.

RAD4Runner

Charging system is simple with no need to go fancy. Most of them are wired the same (See my build thread for Toyota 22RE charging system schematic) ; If both old and replacement alts have internal regulators, it would just be a matter of finding where "IG", "S", "L" and "B" terminals.

Unfortunately, your 1982 may have an external regulator, unlike the 1986's and later.

Why not find a schematic for the Jag AND yours and post them so we can compare? The the electrically savvy in the forum can help you.

stanz

iTrader: (1)

So am I correct in reading that the stock pulley on the Jag alternator causes it to spin too slow and the amps at idle are lower as a result?

I posted a while back that I talked to an alternator shop that told me that the terminals were different on the jag vs toyota. I never got around the swap but my most recent online research suggests that the terminals are the same. Are people finding this to be true? Who's having issues with burning up rotors and batteries?

RAD4Runner

Stanz, care posting schematic of Jaguar so we can compare?

As for pulley speed, compare diameter of Jag alt pulley with stock Yota pulley.

Physical connectors may be different, but most likely same functionally.
IG for excitation
S for sensing/feeding back batt voltage
L- for charge fault
B-for actual output to batt

stanz

iTrader: (1)

RAD4Runner

There you go, exactly same termination. Just need to see if connectors are physically same. If not, just replace connector on harness with one to match the Jag one. IIRC, those who used this alt say it's plug-n-play, except for swapping the pulleys, and slight bending of bracket

stanz

iTrader: (1)

Thanks RAD! The physical plug is the same. I caught the bracket bending note before. Now the only open question is pulley diameter... some have reported lower output at idle as the stock v belt pulley is a larger diameter than the jag serp pulley.

I ordered a smaller 17mm bore pulley online last night to have on hand. Hoping that does the trick.

chuckross1957

Any news on this, it would be nice if someone could find a source for a proper pulley.

stanz

iTrader: (1)

Yes, the stock pulley is the way to go. Just bore it out to 17mm. The inner diameter of the belt groove is already smaller than the Jag pulley. The next size down is so small that there is no room for a recess on its face. That makes it too tall front to back preventing the nut from getting any threads to bite on.

Turns out that other poster had bad grounds. His issues were not pulley related.

stanz

iTrader: (1)

One more things you should know if you're attempting this upgrade...

The factory ring terminal for the B post is too small. You'll need to increase its size to 5/16:



Here's mine installed:

aportis72

SO quick question do I bore the pully off of my alternator out to 17mm all the way through and then just put on the new alternator? Im about to do this today

stanz

iTrader: (1)

Yes, you bore it all the way through.

aportis72

STANZ what pully did you use? That looks like a new one in the picture.

Oh and I had to order a 17mm drill bit. Nobody in my area had one.

stanz

iTrader: (1)

It's the stock pulley. I had a reman Autozone alternator so the pulley was only a few years old.

aportis72

Put mine on today. I used a Denso alternator. Went very well. Sending back my old dead stock alternator as the core haha. Maybe I will get credit for it maybe not.

stanz

iTrader: (1)

I've got some miles on the Jag alternator now and thought I'd report that I have had no issues. It's working out just great.

frm_808

iTrader: (1)

Great Mod! Had mine on for a couple years now and no problems

Bruin425

Bruin425

ZARTT

Although the original post is almost 7 years old, It is still relavent.
There is an easier way to upgrade to a higher output alternator though.
The GM CS-144 (140 amps) unit from a 94 Cadillac Northstar motor fits the 3VZE motor with almost no madification.
I got it from the scrapper for $35. It has the 6/12 o'clock mount ears, and sits in the upper V of the Cad. motor. Easy to remove.
The Cad.alt. has a serp pulley with one or two extra grooves, but when the Toy.hood is closed, who sees it?
No screwing with pulley swaps. (risk of damaging/bending the shaft is great.)
A rebuild kit(bearings,rectifiers, brushes and voltage regulator) for $50 from alternator man.com. (no Chinese crap also)
An adapter elec. cable for $19 from the same guy to mate the GM to Toy., and you are gold. The serp. belt will have to be changed also. (longer, took me 3 tries)
You will have to lengthen the slot on the adjuster bracket to provide more East/West swing for the alt body away from the block.
Also a bunch of washers behind (or in front of, I forget) the large bolt to orient the alt in a North/South direction for a straight belt path.
The Toy. large bolt works just fine. Do not use the GM bolt as it is an SAE pitch and will cross thread.
You may have to massage the air box a little to clear pulley rotation, though not too much, or it becomes epoxy time.
Remember to beef up your positive, and neg.cables to the battery. Also wherever their is a body, or engine ground, that also.
I can't stress that enough!!!
Swap the orig 80 amp main fuse in the 3VZE box for a 22RE 100 amp fuse. The orig V6 Toy alt. was only 65, or 80 amp output. (forget)
I hope this is helpful to anyone with this upgrade in mind.

Art.

Link supplied should be www.alternatorman.com