10.5" Tundra axle vs Full Float 8"?
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
10.5" Tundra axle vs Full Float 8"?
What would be stronger?
A rear Tundra axle with the 10.5" diff like this
http://www.4wheeloffroad.com/techart...xle/index.html
or a regular 8" differential axle with this kit on it
http://frontrangeoffroadfab.com/nfos...06e62fd0182578
The only thing is there don't seem to be any lockers for the 10.5". Maybe a T100 axle (the so called "8.25") with the full float kit is the way to go?
http://home.4x4wire.com/erik/diffs/
A rear Tundra axle with the 10.5" diff like this
http://www.4wheeloffroad.com/techart...xle/index.html
or a regular 8" differential axle with this kit on it
http://frontrangeoffroadfab.com/nfos...06e62fd0182578
The only thing is there don't seem to be any lockers for the 10.5". Maybe a T100 axle (the so called "8.25") with the full float kit is the way to go?
http://home.4x4wire.com/erik/diffs/
#2
The 10.5" Tundra axle is going to be the strongest obviously. Read the article you posted, that thing is huge. While its not a full floater, look at how they beefed up the portion of the axle supporting the weight of the truck:
What could you possibly need more axle strength for, the Toyota 8" is very stout already?
What could you possibly need more axle strength for, the Toyota 8" is very stout already?
#3
Registered User
Thread Starter
Ah, just curious. I don't think I'll ever be grenading a full float 8", but if I happen to come across a cheap Tundra axle...Do they have discs in the back?
EDIT: No it's a drum.
I bet they're way different widths though.
EDIT: No it's a drum.
I bet they're way different widths though.
Last edited by T-1000; 02-23-2009 at 11:06 AM.
#4
Contributing Member
I guess it depends on how you look at it ... Tundra axle will be a helluva lot harder to grenade, but when it does, your wheel comes off.
8" FF will break easier than the Tundra, but you just remove the broken part and drive on ...
8" FF will break easier than the Tundra, but you just remove the broken part and drive on ...
#6
Contributing Member
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#9
Contributing Member
Dual cases
I'm sending 36,000 ft-lbs of torque to the wheels. I have sheared front axles at the shaft (not the joint/boot).
No axle is designed for that.
I'm sending 36,000 ft-lbs of torque to the wheels. I have sheared front axles at the shaft (not the joint/boot).
No axle is designed for that.
#10
Registered User
Thread Starter
#11
Wouldn't the tires loose traction way before that (unless they were wedged). Any idea what the tires can take in terms of torque before the lugs tear off, the side wall tears or separated from the bead.
#12
Contributing Member
Yes, there is no way the tire can generate that much friction - wedged is the issue. I can tell you on the front that the Warn manual hub, the lugs, the R&P, and the diff stub shaft have all survived when a CV shaft hasn't ... my hub dowels ARE in pretty sorry shape though!
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