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Whats the Best Drop Drag link and why?

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Old 12-09-2007, 11:23 AM   #1
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Whats the Best Drop Drag link and why?

I was wondering what is the best draglink for an 85 4runner with around 3 inches of leaf lift and 1" of body lift? Could ya also tell me about why it is any good and where ya got it?
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Old 12-09-2007, 12:46 PM   #2
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As I said in your other thread...I used a Procomp which is designed for about 3 inches of lift. Frankly it's the only one that I could find that would work. I think Skyjacker makes one as well but it's for more like 4 to 6 inches of lift. It works fine and if I remember correctly, cost something like $175. I ordered it through a local shop but you can get them on line as well.

Here's a photo:
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Last edited by Wardamneagle; 12-09-2007 at 12:47 PM.
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Old 12-16-2007, 11:31 AM   #3
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Dropped

The best dropped drag link is the one that was dropped into the scrap pile. Convert it to cross-over and be done with it. You will lose alot of the bump-steer issues related to draglink setup. You could do it for under $400 bones and have a safer wheeling experience.
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Old 12-16-2007, 11:53 AM   #4
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get rid of that J-arm and go to cross-over steering. with the lift and drop drag link, you are going to start breaking J-arms. Plus as stated, you will have a lot more bump steer, which is a bad thing.
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Old 12-16-2007, 01:35 PM   #5
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I think I got my old one at Downey, I think it was a Superlift part, but that was over 10 years ago:
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/4R_suspension.shtml#PhaseI

Ran that for 1-2 years before converting to crossover steering.
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Old 12-18-2007, 07:26 AM   #6
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Ive run stock steering HARD! for many years and have never broken a darn thing!!
if you are gonna run just 33's and a 3" lift you will have NO problems.if you go bigger than that it might be a better idea to go hysteer.depending on driving style.
most guys that tell you to do hysteer right away have never broken a j-arm,they just listen to everyone else,then pass that on to you.
trust me stock steering works just fine for a daily-driver weekend warrior rig.i 've been doin it for years with no trouble.and im not nice with my trucks.
if you want a drop draglink,just hang out in the toyota boards and get a used one that someone took off their rig to do hysteer.i got all mine for free or like 50 bucks.they are just about all the same quality wise,and general size.
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Old 12-23-2007, 11:01 AM   #7
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I just installed a pro comp drop drag link along with my new pro comp 4 inch lift springs and the new link works great so far.I got my stock steering radius back and it didnt wander all over the road when I test drove it. I will get crossover steering and be done with it, but for now this setup will work just fine.
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Last edited by deserttoy84; 12-23-2007 at 11:03 AM.
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Old 12-09-2009, 03:43 PM   #8
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I'm running a 85 Toyota solid axle j arm setup with a 4inch lift pro comp leafs springs in front and a pro comp drag link bar. i brake j arms all the time i got a collection of them! braking in the same spot every time. its when you flex it and turn your DONE. and if you haven't broke any yet IT WILL HAPPEN!!! get cross-over and be done like the man said...
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Old 12-09-2009, 04:48 PM   #9
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One advantage of flipping the ball on the steering j-arm is less likely to break it. Granted crossover steering is far superior, but a flipped ball and adjustable drag link setup is a fairly decent setup. Reason the stock arm breaks is the drag link attaches underneath and if you angle the drag link up too far (with suspension droop) the link binds under the j-arm and twists it upward. With the ball stud flipped on top, you don't have quite the leverage pulling up on the ball stud as you do from below and you also raise the lower attachment point of the drag link up higher so the angle on it is lessened.
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Old 12-09-2009, 09:13 PM   #10
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how do you have the j arm ball switched up right???
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Old 12-09-2009, 09:19 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by mikeyallout View Post
how do you have the j arm ball switched up right???
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showt...ipped+ball+arm
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Old 12-10-2009, 08:47 AM   #12
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I have run procomp drop drag links and never had a problem but I went to high steer so now Im sellinig the drop drag link if you want it
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Old 12-10-2009, 09:21 AM   #13
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i run a 3 inch on my 83 been out quite a few times and never had a problem...The steering is all stock.
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Old 11-07-2015, 08:30 PM   #14
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I know this thread is pretty old but in hoping someone will be able to help me out.

I just purchased a 1985 Toyota pickup but am having an issue with the steering. When I got it the steering was very sloppy. I found that the stock drag link was shot. I got a pro comp drop drag link since the truck has a 4 inch lift, seemed like a good thing. The issue I'm having is that when I go to install it, I have soft steering one direction and stiff the other. What I have found was that there are the two springs, one in each drag link end, that are supposed to help with bump steering. Well, the way the directions show to put it together, it's causing the arm to compress both springs one direction and neither spring the other direction. This doesn't seem correct to me...

The stock drag link I removed had one spring inboard of the ball on one end and one spring outboard of the ball on the other end so that one spring was compressed in either direction. I don't know if I got sent a drag link with a wrong end in it or if I'm doing something wrong. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks
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Old 11-07-2015, 08:36 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jhsantacruz63 View Post
I know this thread is pretty old but in hoping someone will be able to help me out.

I just purchased a 1985 Toyota pickup but am having an issue with the steering. When I got it the steering was very sloppy. I found that the stock drag link was shot. I got a pro comp drop drag link since the truck has a 4 inch lift, seemed like a good thing. The issue I'm having is that when I go to install it, I have soft steering one direction and stiff the other. What I have found was that there are the two springs, one in each drag link end, that are supposed to help with bump steering. Well, the way the directions show to put it together, it's causing the arm to compress both springs one direction and neither spring the other direction. This doesn't seem correct to me...

The stock drag link I removed had one spring inboard of the ball on one end and one spring outboard of the ball on the other end so that one spring was compressed in either direction. I don't know if I got sent a drag link with a wrong end in it or if I'm doing something wrong. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks
Bingo, we have a winner! Not a bad drag link but it's cheap to make that way, they just send you a bent chunk of tubing and a pair of road ends with a spring loaded cup in the end. Best answer is to just crank the heck out of it and live with what you get:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/4R_suspension.shtml#PhaseI



Quote:
One trick I found with the dropped drag link was to tighten the screwed in end caps as tight as possible to cut down on the internal play. In the stock draglink, the ends are spring-loaded, but designed such that in either compression or tension, at most one spring is in play, on one end the spring is on the inside and on the other its on the outside. The dropped drag link use screwed in ends, which are identical, both with springs on the inside. So, under tension everthing is nice and tight, but in compression, the two springs compress and make for spongy turning input. To tighten the end caps really tight, I fashioned the tool pictured above out of 1x1/8" flat bar. The ends are filed down to about 0.84" to just fit the slot, then the tool is inserted in the slot and torqued down with a long Cresent wrench.
And yes, the stock drag link is designed properly and the aftermarket one is not.

Only real solution is to cut all the factory steering out of there and install crossover steering. It's 100 times better than stock and well worth it.
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Old 11-07-2015, 08:39 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4Crawler View Post
Bingo, we have a winner! Not a bad drag link but it's cheap to make that way, they just send you a bent chunk of tubing and a pair of road ends with a spring loaded cup in the end. Best answer is to just crank the heck out of it and live with what you get:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/4R_suspension.shtml#PhaseI





And yes, the stock drag link is designed properly and the aftermarket one is not.

Only real solution is to cut all the factory steering out of there and install crossover steering. It's 100 times better than stock and well worth it.
Ok thanks for the info. That sucks that someone didn't take the time to design it to work properly. I'll have to look into the cross over steering. Thanks again
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Old 11-07-2015, 10:56 PM   #17
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Cross over steering , also referred to as high steer is great.
You use an IFS steering box,, can cost up to $400 to get all you need (also need a minimum 3" lift) but it is a night and day handling difference from the old push pull.

Also inspect your bearings, and other front end items. They tend to get neglected on old trucks
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Old 11-10-2015, 09:32 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deserttoy84 View Post
I just installed a pro comp drop drag link along with my new pro comp 4 inch lift springs and the new link works great so far.I got my stock steering radius back and it didnt wander all over the road when I test drove it. I will get crossover steering and be done with it, but for now this setup will work just fine.

I noticed in the picture, the newer drag bar for keeping the axle centered.... where did you find that beauty?

I know its a long shot considering the time fram haha.
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