masonjames75

New to the forum and looked for a thread but couldn't find one exactly like my problem. I have and 84 pickup 22r carbed of course with 150k on the motor. It sometimes will not start until I unhook and rehook the battery once or twice. I have no clue what could be the issue. I've already replaced the ground wire thinking that was it but same problem. I had it for two weeks before I let my trusty mechanic replace the rear main seal, diff seal, and pinion bearing seal. I didn't have the issue until I got it back. Maybe that's just a big coincidence. I am taking it back Friday to let him take a look at CPU and etc. If any body has experienced the same issue then pease let me know what it was and how it was fixed. Thanks in advance for any replies.

Rowdydudeman

motor to frame grounds good? body to frame?
my 82 did the same thing (wouldn't start every once in a while) and after a good ground cleaning it hasn't happened since. I had a headlight the liked to turn itself off every now and again too, but only the lowbeam! the high beam would still work! same issue, poor connection.
silicone paste is your friend.

masonjames75

I got the ground to body connection. I should have bought a longer wire to run my battery ground to frame because I don't like the body ground but that is where it was at before. I'll get some greese and put some on the ground ends and double check my connections. Its some frustrating stuff. I know its probably just something simple like that. Thanks for the info

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

I dont know of a good wiring diagram showing all of the ground connections for your truck. I take a wire brush to the ground connectors and to the body where they connect. By your fuse box in the cab or under the hood will be one. Make sure your alternator ground is connected good. Should have one from the head to the body. Those are the ones I know of for your generation of trucks and sure there is more I may have missed. Pretty sure your truck doesnt have a CPU of any form but could be wrong.

stkybgr

Sounds like a loose wire on the starter. You said you had your rear main replaced right? I would guess your mechanic removed the starter but didn't hook it back up right, well maybe loose connections anyways. Check there and see what you find. Good luck.

masonjames75

I hope it don't have a cpu. I need to do some digging but there expensive last I check on one for another vehicle.

stkybgr

Have you had any luck yet?

RAD4Runner

Please clarify.
By starting, you mean "cranking", correct? Not combustion when you hear, feel & smell "VROOM"?

If cranking issue, maybe you meant ECU. However, ECU does not have any effect on cranking issue.

Does your starter solenoid click when you try to crank? Does it sound strong or weak?

Checking battery condition and connections are important basics.

After you do that, if you still have a problem, try this

Does it consistently crank your starter?

Regardless... you also need to remember that your truck (like those up to up to 1985) does not have a starter relay. That means that the 12 amperes or so needed to energize the starter solenoid are go from battery, along long wire into cabin, through ST1 contacts of ignition switch, back on looong wire to engine compartment, and finally to starter solenoid.

That means lots of power loss to wire resistance, and possibly more resistance from oxidized ignition switch contacts so there's not enough power to actuate the solenoid shaft and close the contacts.

Search "Adding Starter Relay".

masonjames75

If I can't get it starighted out tomorrow morning then I'll run to the mechanic. Work has kept me busy. The starter wire seems like a good idea that I never even considered and wire diagrams seem to be few and in between specicaly good ones. And by not cranking I mean when I turn the key, my electronics start to turn on but when I go to turn the motor over then everything just dies and I can hear a faint buzzing sound sounding like electricity being pulled but the motor won't turn starter doesn't engage basicly nothing other than my electronics going off when I turn the key. Hopefully I'll have a solution tomorrow to update this thread.

RAD4Runner

Ground was mentioned several times, but did you clean your battery posts and connectors. Did you clean so bare metal contacts bare metal? Grey metal is not bare metal, as I have experiencedhere

The fact that electronics turn on but turn off when trying to crank suggests either:

1. Battery is weak- enough to turn on electronics but when loaded with 12 amps needed to energize solenoid OR much heavier current needed to turn starter motor, voltage drops significantly.
2. Interface between battery post and connector is bad - when high current flows, power is lost in that interface and does not reach your electronics so latter dies.

Got a multi-meter? Next to our senses that's the most important and least expensive diagnostic tool.
Once you got a voltmeter, we'll go from there.

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

If I read this correct you only have one ground going to the inner fender??

I do think that might be a big part of the problem you need the main ground going to the steel part of the block .

A frame ground is good if you want a good ground at the frame does not really help in cranking it does not hurt .

Remember your starter is grounded by the bolts and contact of the nose in the past I have run a ground right to the bottom starter bolt.

RAD4Runner

On my 1986 4Runner, here are the grounds I actually see:

1. Battery negative to right fender, near fuse block
2. Battery negative to front, right bottom corner of engine block. This is the thick battery cable, because this is where cranking gets its ground.
3. Top left rear corner of engine block (not valve cover) to firewall.
4. There is also a ground wire coming from alternator harness to where alt bracket mounts on the engine block. This must be connected to alt body.

stkybgr

Have any luck over the weekend?