84-85 Trucks & 4Runners 2nd gen pickups and 1st gen 4Runners with solid front axles

Water in oil and water in coolant system.

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Old 02-24-2014, 06:20 AM
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Water in oil and water in coolant system.

Ok I'll start off at the beginning. Monday of last week I changed my water pump as it was leaking. I changed it at a friends house so I just added water until I could get home. On my way home I stopped and got some coolant and oil. Changed both. Tuesday morning I woke up checked my water was a few oz low. Figured it just needed to be burped. Wednesday checked it agin was all full. Thought I was good to go. So Friday it was running fine like no problems. All of a sudden it seemed like it was losing power. I stopped and was low on water. Added some water to it. Drove a few more miles and it shut off. The truck didn't over heat or anything. So when I started addin water again I noticed oil come up. Checked my dip stick water in it. I haven't done anything yet. I know the motor isn't locked up cause it spins freely. Could it be a warped head. Or maybe the gasket. We also had a crazy winter down here could it also possibly be freeze plugs. This is on a 85 22re. Any help will be appreciated. Thanks.
Old 02-24-2014, 07:01 AM
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Freeze plugs are external on the block, so if one pushed out, it would simply leak water onto the ground, it wouldn't mix with the oil. If there is mixing it's an internal issue. Cracked head, cracked block, defective head gasket, etc. Sounds like some disassembly may be in order.
Old 02-24-2014, 07:17 AM
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Thanks. Yes disassembly is going to be required. Hopefully it's just a hg. I also poured a lil water with the oil drain plug open and it went straight thru. Then I pulled my radiator plug and was a little coolant that was till left in there.
Old 02-25-2014, 12:17 AM
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Could be a hole in the timing cover water jacket, too. Were you getting any timing chain slap?
Old 02-25-2014, 03:28 PM
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It's a hole in the timing chain cover. I drained all water and oil. Left oil plug off. Pulled valve cover off. Looked down in there and poured water in radiate. Sae it go into timing chain cover. I hear they can be complicated to change.
Old 02-25-2014, 03:55 PM
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Lol, the one thing I forgot to mention.

Good call, Ute.

I don't think the t-chain cover is all that hard. Just a little time consuming, maybe?
Old 02-25-2014, 04:07 PM
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I will know tomorrow. I got all the parts now time to change it. Hope all goes well.
Old 02-25-2014, 05:32 PM
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I thought the hard part about working on the timing chain stuff was deciding whether or not to pull the head. Some have no trouble with leaving the head in place, others aren't so lucky.
Old 02-25-2014, 05:46 PM
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I heard it was best to pull the oil pan. Since you need to anyways to clean everything out of there. Hope it's right.
Old 02-26-2014, 02:10 AM
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Originally Posted by Gulfcoast13
I heard it was best to pull the oil pan. Since you need to anyways to clean everything out of there. Hope it's right.
Yeah if there is water in the oil you should pull the pan. You have an '85, so the only thing in your way is a steering stabilizer, depending on lift. The poor IFS guys have to drop the front diff to pull the oil pan.

22reperformance.com says to replace the oil sending unit, too, since it's got water in it now.

Since it sounds like your timing chain wore through the water jacket (based on the fact you could pour oil in the radiator and watch it come out the oil drain plug) you have a big job ahead of you. I suggest reading THIS THREAD for lots of great pics and instructions. About 3/4 down the 1st page you'll see THIS POST, note the wear marks on the driver side where the timing chain has worn through the housing. That's your issue too, so you're replacing the timing chain cover which has a hole in it letting water into oil, upgrading to steel-backed TC guides, new oil pump, probably a new timing set. engnbldr.com has a kit for nearly everything you need, just tell them your water pump is new so you won't need that.

Since you are pulling that timing chain cover, you have to figure out if you're also pulling the head (big job) so you can also do the head gasket, or if you're trying to not damage the head gasket during TC cover replacement. IMO, I would go with pulling the head. Actually IMO, if you don't know the full history of the motor (miles since rebuild, good maintenance) I would go for a new/rebuilt motor. Reason? Read all 12 pages of that thread above. Some say the work he did can be done in a weekend, but regardless, he did the full timing set plus head gasket and the gasket went, again, a year later. Plus if he was doing it again he would pull the motor, and if you're going to do that I would freshen up the bottom end while you're there = full rebuild. If all you can afford is to slap some new parts in, flush the water out of the oil, and go, I'm sure you'll get some more good mileage out of it - a lot of folks do.
Old 02-26-2014, 04:30 AM
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Thanks for the advice. Yea I read that forum the other day very helpful. My neighbor is very good when it comes to these motors can fix one blindfolded I believe. He is going to give me and eye help me out. I'm going to do it all. He's one of them people that he learned all on his own he will tell and show you once next time better know how to on your own. I have bought new timing cover new timing set and gaskets. I'll find out for sure hoe bad it is when I get into it today. Not truly looking for fwd to if but it's got to be done.
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