BillyJack

Since buying a 1985 SR5, 4x4 22R-E, 5spd, 121K miles, New timing chain and plugs, rotor cap, wires, yada, yada, yada...a few weeks ago.





The only thing I noticed was that it had some type of issues with the engine not starting immediately...it turned over okay, but did not ignite until it turned over a few times. It ran great after it started. No hiccups at all.

Now the truck did need a muffler since I bought it. I did drive it with this muffler system and there was little exhaust coming out of the tailpipe. I am having a new system built now:







A couple days ago, the Check Engine Light (CEL) came on and the truck started missing and loosing power and the light would go out and the missing would then clear up and the engine would re-gain power.

Most recently, the truck will start, but if given any gas, it will respond in two ways:

• If trying to take off (clutch release), then it will stall as if it cannot increase rpm and possibly die
• If you let it idle and not take off, then the engine can increase rpm, but it will reach 3,000 rpm and then start to belch and backfire...the neighbors love me

I checked my codes by using a jumper :




My CEL flashed the following: 2, 7, 8, 11. When I looked up each of these, the one thing in common is Early 22RE engines is Defective ECU:

CODE DESCRIPTION / PROBABLE CAUSE(S)
1 Normal operation (no code stored)
2 Open or shorted Air Flow Meter (AFM) circuit
- Defective AFM
- Defective Electronic Control Unit (ECU)
3 No signal from igniter 4 times in succession
- Defective Igniter
- Defective Main Relay circuit
- Defective ECU
4 Open or shorted Water Thermo Sensor (THW) circuit
- Defective THW
- Defective ECU
5 Open or shorted Oxygen Sensor (O2) circuit
- Lean or rich indication (with injectors full rich or full lean)
- Defective O2 sensor
- Defective ECU
6 No engine revolution sensor (Ne) signal to ECU
- Ne being over 1000 RPM in spite of no Ne signal to ECU
- Defective Igniter circuit
- Defective Igniter
- Defective distributor
- Defective ECU
7 Open or shorted Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) circuit
- Defective TPS
- Defective ECU
8 Open or shorter Air Thermo Sensor citcuit
- Defective intake air thermo sensor circuit (see AFM)
- Defective ECU
9 not used?
10 No starter switch signal for ECU w/ vehicle speed = 0 and engine RPM > 800
- Defective Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS)
- Defective main relay circuit
- Defective igniter switch to starter circuit
- Defective ECU
11 Short circuit in Check Connector T with A/C switch ON or TPS - IDL point OFF
- Defective A/C switch
- Defective TPS circuit
- Defective TPS
- Defective ECU
12 Knock control Sensor (KS) signal has not reached judgement level in succession
- Defective KS circuit
- Defective KS
- Defective ECU
13 Knock CPU (Sensor?) faulty

Sorry about the long winded "goings-on", but I am wondering if any of you have seen this problem before?

Appreciate any help you may have on this...Thanks.
__________________
"Style is created by those who don't follow it"

85RunnerSR5

Is everything connected while you are trying to start/run the engine?

BillyJack

Yes, everything was connected. But the exhaust was plugged.

I didn't try to run it with the exhaust off.

The code were created while she was running. As I noted, I have changed the O2 and I've got the exhaust ready to be installed.

I will be running the engine tomorrow and hope then that I can then get review the codes again.

FrankTorres

Your AFM may be toast and is related to codes 2 & 8.
The TPS maybe worn or out of adjustment and is related to codes 7 & 11.
I would also make sure you connectors and harness to the AFM and TPS are making the proper connection.

Good luck hope this helps...
Nice truck btw.

85RunnerSR5

Try running it with the exhaust off...it will be loud but you will be able to tell a difference if the exhaust was completely stopped up. And I agree with Frank...sounds like a possible AFM...when they go bad they will do some crazy things.

BillyJack

Guys, thanks so much for your help. I have been busy today:

• I got the muffler and tailpipe installed
• installed a new distributor cap
• Pulled and cleaned the spark plugs
• Because all else failed, I set and read 4crawler's steps on testing electronic circuits.
• Tested the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS)
• Installed my new "Fab Worx" shift knobs (had to use a tread die to re-cut the damaged treads on the shifters)

What I found out about the TPS is that there may be a problem because I could not get a circuit (resistance) when I jumped the "IDL - E2" to test the circuit. The other test procedures for VTA-E2 aand Vcc-E2 work well and were with in suggested ranges.



If nothing else, I learned about the way this car operates. I will get back at it tomorrow.

BillyJack

Got a new TPS installed and added new allen screws for easy adjustments.



Still have some of the same problem though...it does idle better.

Then I tested the AFM and founded that it had problems when performing the "Dynamic Testing" as detailed on http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/AFM/index.shtml. During this test, there should be a linear progression to a maximum number of 1000. However, mine ran from linear to infinity to multi-thousands then to nothing then decreasing as it approached the fully open position...thereby making the CMU have a unpredictable results such as backfiring and surging and stalling...you know a PIA.

Please let me know if you have any advice.

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

Welcome to Yotatech. Nice looking truck you have. Not to many on here from the midwest. I lived in Tulsa for a few years myself. The ECU is really stable from my experience and have never had to change one unless it got wet. A good cleaning of the intake and sensors will take care of a lot of problems as well. Is the wiring butchered up? I have seen that cause more problems then anything.

On your TPS, were you able to get Code 11 cleared? I am going thru that battle myself and it is winning. The Knock Sensor is usually the wire is damaged and the sensor itself is usually good from my experience. I get my O2 sensor from www.sparkplugs.com Make sure you get the single wire O2 sensor as there is a 4 wire that is used on the 88 and newer trucks. Bosch sensors dont do well with these trucks. I see you got one but didnt see the brand.

BillyJack

Terry, thanks so much for the advice. I agree that the ECU is probably in good shape.

Regarding the intake, it was clean and no buildup. I do need to readjust the TPS. I tried many adjustments when it did not run properly and just walked away before I made I made the final recommended adjustment.

I have not checked the codes since installing the new TPS. I'll do that this evening.

I am preparing to pull the trigger on the purchase of a new AFM from RockAuto...Cardone® Remanufactured - Vane Air Flow Meter
Part # 74-20004...gulp.https://www.yotatech.com/forums/images/smilies/bah.gif

My wiring looks to be in good shape. I will check it.
Thanks for your help...I will post what I find.