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So I have this annoying problem where the truck dies when I engage the clutch. I have learned certain characteristics for this happen that might help with diagnosing.
1. When truck is cold, this is not an issue.
2. After truck is at operating temperature, issue persists.
3. When I drive the truck, then engage the clutch when arriving at a stop, the engine tach goes from 2K - 3K all the way down to 0K resulting in truck dying.
4. This will happen when going straight or turning.
5. I am able to prevent truck dying by stepping on throttle while clutch is engaged to give it a boost.
6. I messed around with the idle up screw but dont know if I made it worse as it seems nothing has improved.
So I have this annoying problem where the truck dies when I engage the clutch. I have learned certain characteristics for this happen that might help with diagnosing.
1. When truck is cold, this is not an issue.
2. After truck is at operating temperature, issue persists.
3. When I drive the truck, then engage the clutch when arriving at a stop, the engine tach goes from 2K - 3K all the way down to 0K resulting in truck dying.
4. This will happen when going straight or turning.
5. I am able to prevent truck dying by stepping on throttle while clutch is engaged to give it a boost.
6. I messed around with the idle up screw but dont know if I made it worse as it seems nothing has improved.
Any ideas?
If it is an EFI I'd think the Idle Air Control Valve is fubar.
I tested the valve at cold and warm and matched the RPM drop expectations. I had to use pliers to pinch the tube because it was so stiff that I couldnt do it with my fingers so dont know if thats an indication of anything. Also, I did not measure the resistance because I didnt want to take it apart assuming it was fine based on the cold/warm tests.
I think you are on to something as I mentioned before this only happens when the engine is warm.
I tested the valve at cold and warm and matched the RPM drop expectations. I had to use pliers to pinch the tube because it was so stiff that I couldnt do it with my fingers so dont know if thats an indication of anything. Also, I did not measure the resistance because I didnt want to take it apart assuming it was fine based on the cold/warm tests.
I think you are on to something as I mentioned before this only happens when the engine is warm.
Does the truck throw any codes?
Reading elsewhere some suggest the pressure plate not disengaging fully or throw-out bearing problems related to the pressure plate. TPS or MAS not working correctly as another solution. These are places to start..
That led to the 4crawler page with specific instructions for testing the TPS at http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...dex.shtml#Adj1. From reading that site, I learned about the idle screw circled in red below. So I drove my truck around to get it warm and then confirm the idle issues which happened. Afterwards, stopped the truck, popped the hood open and played with that idle screw to get the truck to idle higher around 700 - 800 RPM. Then I drove the truck around and it never stopped and held idle perfectly when engaging the clutch and coming to a stop. If you never had this problem before, you dont know how much of a relief this is because driving on the streets I was so nervous about the truck stopping while making a turn, coming to a stop, etc and having to quickly start the engine again to keep going.
I am not sure what happened here but the only thing I can think of is my smog guy may have adjusted this in order to pass smog. But that was last June so I cant remember. I guess I will find out come this June. I am hoping this adjustment was correct and doesnt mask potential other issues. As of now the engine sounds great at idle.
09-21-2015, 08:30 PM
