GG_GLI

I guys... i'm new here and i want to ask some question to you all the toyota trucks know-it-all!!!

I've found an old toyota truck 1984
4 cyl
4 x 4
129 000 miles

It look really clean but before calling the guy... i would like to know everything about these truck (engine, frame, tranny, everything!!!) good or bad!

Thank you very much!

metalhed

Greetings I have an 84 PU and it is great. Mainly stock appearing but with lockers front and rear add a leafs K & N filter, glass pac. Nothing great or grand but it gets 20 MPG in the city and is super dependable. If you are looking to buy thisyear of truck, Rust is the main problem. The bed is either trash or has been fixed. I have fixed it twice and will not again, the box will rot off and i will replace it with a Bruzer Box or fab a flat bed. If the major and minor maintenance was done the truck should be ok, expect to go thru the brakes and all fluids, tune and go! Engine concerns are the timing belt and any leaks associated with the valve cover gasket, exhaust manifold cracks and leaks. Timing belt is major $$ unless you want to do it yourself. Probably a 22r, do not expect any huge (over 125) HP with this motor unless you dump some $$ into it and then you could have gotten a newer truck. Be prepared to go slow with the 22r. Interior is small, bench seat is marginal, seat springs wear and sag. The truck probably looks like it is sagging in the rear but the front fender is cut higher than the rear, but rear springs are plentiful.
Overall i love my TOY and hope to keep it a long time. A great tough truck, Just wish i had a pot of gold to tweak mine to perfection. little by little it is coming along

joez

timing chain, make sure it has been replaced, along with the guides and tensioner. the fuel pumps have a tendancy to leak on those, but i replaced mine myself in about 25 min for $30. make sure the pinions are not leaking, and check the gear lube in the front and rear axle.

the frame has a tendancy to rust through and crack at the base of the rear spring hangers. feel arround the whole rail, as it is a boxed frame.

make sure the trans makes no noise in nuetral, as this is a bad input shaft bearing. it is a cheap part, but requires dropping the trans to do.

e-brake, dont pull unless the guy is sure it works. they will stick on you just before the cables break.

thats all i can think of off the top of my head, other than the basics, o, and another thing, make sure it has manual hubs. the auto ones unlock in reverse, making a stuck situation get much worse very fast.

hope this helps, and good luck.

metalhed

Greetings again

I believe most if not all 1984's were 22r's
most were 5 speeds with 4:10 gears

supposedly the strongest mini truck axles

Go to the library and look for "How to keep your Toyota Pickup alive" by Larry Owens a great book with tons of info HIGHLY RECOMMENDED
Detailed explanations on all aspects of Toyota mini trucks

Hope this helps

dajabr

Here's one I wrote for another board...

Re: any advice on buying a used 4 Runner? [re: hakefisherman]
11/16/02 12:16 PM Edit Reply

Unlike Hakefisherman, I have maintained my appreciation for the 1st generation 4runners. I love the convertible top, the economic 4banger, and it will do anything that the big ole new gens can do; maybe slower, maybe quieter, maybe not as well, but we can fit in smaller parking spots and tan while we're doing it. And I just plain disagree with the looks part, I think the broncos are awesome powerwise, but big and clunky loking. There are more cheap junkyard parts for us too...

If you get a first gen, first of all decide what you need from it, and wait for a good one that fits your needs; 4 cyl vs. 6, SR5 or not, etc... Bring a tape AND a CD...


First, look underneath it...
Look for any rust or damage, when in doubt poke rust spots with a screwdriver.
Check underneath for scrapes and gouges in the frame and suspension; this is a sure indication of abuse/offroading.
Check the shocks, tires, rims, boots, spare tire lowering mechanism, drivetrain, everything.
Look at the engine, check for clumps of dirt, non pro looking repairs, recent repairs, check radiator for previous repairs, look for old and cracked hoses and belts.
Last check all the fluids and remeber where they are.

Then start it, and mess around until it get's up to temperature, this will be to check for overheats when you're driving.
Rev the engine while you're looking at it under the hood, listen for wierd noises, clacking. You might get a few clacks at startup but they should go away quickly.
While that's happening, Make sure you see any maintenance records, since they're older vehicles, don't take the guys word for anything.
Be absolutely sure the timing chain has been done, unless you are willing to pay $1000 for it, or you're interested in a paying lower price for a possibly bad engine that you'll be swapping out, rebuilding, souping up or don't mind fixing. Listen to the engine while it warms up, it shoud idle fast but still sound smooth, then eventually slow to a regular idle.
Pop in your tape and or CD, check the radio, dig yer tunes, do a little dance, make a little love, get down according to whatever time it may be.
Check for rust at the top of rear wheel wells on the outside, once these start to go they go fast. (if you care about the body, optional)
Work the rear window a lot, test it from the key in the tailgate and from the switch inside, these window problems are expensive. If it's noisy or not smooth operating, drop the price a few hundred.
Test the clutch defeat button to the left of the steering wheel, not a biggie, but can keep it from starting when it goes.
Check the interior, the drivers seat padding wears out at the lower back, if you feel anything hard across there, you may have to fix it.
Look under the back seats as you fold them up and down. Don't mention the paper money that's there...
Look under the dash for do it yourself wiring, be careful if it goes to anything important.
Listen for signs of any fluid being low, a steering component that leaks is expensive.
Look at if from a distance and check if the back end sags much lower than the front, these spring are the same as the pickups and wear out.
Check for cold A/C and hot heat, check once at startup and again at normal temp. Make sure the levers move easily. Smell the air for radiator fluid smell or other.
The clocks are expensive, make sure it's working. Also, see if it's at the right time, if it's off by anything more that daylight savings check for and ask about electrical problems.
When your temp gets to normal range make sure the temp stops rising, stays in the normal range then go for the test drive.
Note the milage on the odometer and trip odo, before you start.
Make sure the speedo works and the odometers, tachs, etc. are spinning.
Feel if the suspension feels solid or if it's slops around corners or over bumps. Keep in mind it's not a car and will ride harder.
Note how smoothly and tightly the clutch holds.
Hot Heat, cold A/C, again, every setting.
Listen for any noises or difficulties in every gear, including reverse. Listen for loudness or grinding and note if from front, rear, middle, wheels, etc.
Get on the highway and floor it. Try to get through to 5th as fast as possible.
Later, get it up to the top of the 1st gear range then drop it into 4th and give some gas. Yes, 1st to 4th. It should sound really low and slow and groan a lot but if the engine has bad gaskets or valves they'll blow right now, before it's your problem.

After all this, if you still like it, offer to pay the $20- $30 and get your states safty and emissions inspections done.



894R: 30"BFG TA, red SR5 Gauges, new 22re, Marlin Clutch, Rear Speaker Boxes, Aiwa w/jack 4 laptop.

84 yota ex-cab

The 22r motor will run for ever is it has been maintained regularly. Ask the guy if he has any receipts. Alot of times people will save all the maintenance records. The timing chains wear out and the timing covers are prone to leaks. The axles and trannys are pretty tough. Very easy truck to work on.

myyota

To put it as simply as possible, these trucks just won`t quit, if you take care of them and do regular maintenance they will last forever.

eightnine

the drivetrain might last forever but not the body..they rust out pretty fast.

myyota

Like i said, they last forever. We don`t have a rust problem in the area that i live in, it would probably be a problem were is snows alot and alot of salt is used on the roads.