84-85 Trucks & 4Runners 2nd gen pickups and 1st gen 4Runners with solid front axles

timing help i think?!?

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Old 05-20-2013, 11:04 AM
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timing help i think?!?

I recently tore down and replaced all the gaskets and timing chain.what really sucked is we had to roll the truck back and move it with the head and sprockts off. i got it all back together. i put the first and 4th cylinder all the way down and the head notch straight up as i was told that would be correct for initial timing. now it doesn't even try to start. it now just makes a weird sound like timing is waaaay off. how do i fix this?? all i know is when the crank notch is down first n fourth cylinders are down. i have a weber so very few vacuum lines are present. please help i need to get to work. thanks for your time in advance.
Old 05-20-2013, 08:02 PM
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You have it backward. Piston #1 should be at TDC (Top Dead Center) for this procedure. If piston #4 is at BDC (Bottom Dead Center) then piston #1 is also at BDC. With piston #1 at TDC your timing alignment mark on the cam sprocket should be at 12 o'clock.

You need to remove the timing chain from the cam sprocket, rotate the crank so cylinder #1 is at TDC and reinstall with the cam timing mark at 12 o'clock.
Old 05-24-2013, 10:38 AM
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Thank you for your response . i am working on it today. I run a framing crew all week which reallykeeps my hands full. well that and three kids lol. so tic is the notch on the crank facing up at 12 0'clock right?
Old 05-24-2013, 05:55 PM
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Ok timing is closer but when i try and start it the carbon seems to backfire or pop. is the distributor timing? its not starting but it sounds fairly normal. the carbon gets flooded quick it seems like. this thing ran before just chocolate milk oil. i have done rebuild in the past but this one is kind of confusing me. what should i troubleshoot?
Old 05-27-2013, 04:32 PM
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To check your distributor timing place cylinder #1 at TDC using the notch on the crank set to 0 degrees specified on the timing marker (notch at 12-oclock). Follow spark plug wire from cylinder #1 and #4 and note its location on the distributor. Pull the distributor cap and look to see if the rotor is pointing to cylinder #1 or #4. Pull the valve cover. Whichever cylinder the rotor is pointing to should have the valves closed (firing position), this can be verified by checking the rockers on that cylinder are loose. The other cylinder (#1 or #4) that it is not pointing to should have the valves open (exhaust position), which will have the rockers engaged and tight.

If the rotor is pointing to the cylinder with both valves open, your distributor timing is reversed, the spark is firing with open valves and no compression. If that is the case, remove the distributor, rotate the engine 1 revolution by using the crank pulley nut back to 12-oclock, and reinstall the distributor. Verify the rotor is pointing to a cylinder with closed valves.
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