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#1 (permalink) | |||||
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Registered User
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Starter issue
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#2 (permalink) |
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Registered User
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Swapped the starter and it turned right over. The replacement (out of the '86) is a made-in-Mexico starter, though, so I'll be rebuilding the original Denso, if I can, and reinstalling it.
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#3 (permalink) | |
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Contributing Member
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: SF Bay Area, CA
Posts: 7,828
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Quote:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...shtml#EasyTest Voltage drop and no click means that there is current flowing to the solenoid, but not enough to pull it fully in (making the click). That current times the resistance in the circuit feeding the solenoid = voltage drop. Perhaps the replacement starter you installed pulls less current or will pull in with less current that the one you took out: - http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...l#OtherOptions
__________________
1985 Toyota 4Runner SR-5, 22REC engine, dual t-cases, 4.88 gears, dual ARBs, 33x10.50 BFGs or 35x12.50 MTRs r.c.brown@ieee.org TruckEditor@tlca.org Project: 4Crawler 4Crawler OffRoad Gettin'Off 4WD Club |
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#4 (permalink) |
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Registered User
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I must have missed that when I was reading over your writeup.
The starter cable had good voltage when I tested that. I didn't have any spare wire or spade connectors laying around, so I couldn't test the solenoid wire. As for your theory of less current to close the solenoid on the replacement starter, it's entirely possible. The original starter was working just fine until Friday, leading me to believe that the problem is not a lack of current delivery, but something that changed within the starter itself. Either way, I'll be tearing the Denso down to check the contacts and replacing them if necessary. I think a relay for the starter is also in order, if for nothing else than to relieve some of the load on the ignition switch. Thank you for your writeup. I probably would have tossed the OE Denso without your giant, bold font telling me to rebuild it.
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#5 (permalink) | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: San Diego
Posts: 1,021
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So did you fix it yet? And if so, what was it? I am getting a relay today and probably returning the push button switch...May I'll keep it in the spare parts box for a trail fix on sombody's Toy. It was only $5 and looks heavy duty.
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'85 4Runner totaled and brought back 22RE-C 5spd 4.88's, Rear IFS axle with Detroit Locker and Tru Trac up front Doug Thorley Header and LC Engineering Cam, K+N, Downey 3 inch leaves and Rubicon shackles with Pro Comp shocks 32x11.5-15 BFG AT's Quote:
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#6 (permalink) |
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Registered User
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I'll be working on it this weekend and I'll report back.
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#7 (permalink) |
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Registered User
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I had a few minutes last night to pull the solenoid cover. No pics, yet. Sorry.
The contacts look like they're still in great shape. There is almost no visible wear on them, whatsoever. The wires running to the contacts also look clean. There is some sticky grease on the solenoid plunger that may be causing issues. The inside of the solenoid housing, however, looks dirty. For those of you in road-salt country, it's sort of like that white coating you get on your vehicle after driving on wet roads after a snow storm. I don't know if that's the issue, or if something else is causing the problem, but I can tell you it'll be a bitch and a half to clean it out. I imagine that a total dismantling would be necessary. My next step will be putting it back together and getting it tested at the Advance Auto Parts down the block. Since the contacts look good, I want to see if the motor itself still works. |
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