remove knuckle arm completely?

live4soccer7 · 10-26-2009, 09:33 PM

I've gotten the knuckle arm this far off, but can't get it off the last part. Does it just come off of the top of the bolt or is there something else to it?

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TOYOTA 1 · 10-26-2009, 09:37 PM

take the tie rod nut off, then use a pickle fork to separate the arm from the tie rod.

live4soccer7 · 10-26-2009, 09:54 PM

I think I've already taken the nut off. I'm fairly new to all the terminology, but I'm learning. You mean the nut that is on top of the knuckle arm on the end that isn't free in the pic? You can't really see, but it's off (if that's what you're referring to). Thanks for the help.

Etype R · 10-26-2009, 10:21 PM

The TRE (Tie Rod End) has a tapered end that wedges into the arm, you need to either wack the TRE down with a hammer or use a pickle fork to seperate it.

live4soccer7 · 10-26-2009, 11:04 PM

I don't have a pickle fork and I tried using something kind of similar, but it didn't work (just got some grease to ooze out of the joint. I've also tried beating on it a bit with a hammer and still no luck. I'll have to try more of the hammer method. Thanks for the tips.

tmcorbin · 10-27-2009, 03:26 AM

If you have a propane(spelling) torch, heat up the threaded end of the TRE until the grease in the TRE knuckle starts to smoke. Then quickly hit the threaded end with a hammer to knock it out. Either use a brass bar, or leave the castle nut on the treads to protect them. If you have already banged up the threads dont worry, TRE's are farly cheap.

Etype R · 10-27-2009, 06:52 AM

You can get a pickle fork pretty cheap, $10-20.

**waskillywabbit** · 10-27-2009, 07:37 AM

Pickle fork tends to ruin the boot on the TRE and the hammer method tends to mushroom the bolt end.

I have a small pitman arm puller that pops them right off with a few hits from an impact.

Etype R · 10-27-2009, 07:48 AM

Probably time for him to replace the TRE's anyways

4Crawler · 10-27-2009, 08:08 AM

I have some tips on removing tie rod end type of joints below and X2 on the heating trick:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...ringStabilizer

live4soccer7 · 11-02-2009, 10:11 PM

This is what happened to the pitman arm puller that I got today. I guess it's off to the torch.

I do not have an oxy acetylene torch, but I have one of those smaller propane torches. Would something like that work? I've got to get this thing off now b/c the stud is ruined. Beat the hell out of it with a 10lb sludge hammer with now luck. Looks like I'll be replacing the tie rod ends after all. lol.

It's not letting me upload any pics for some reason, but I'll try again in a couple minutes

live4soccer7 · 11-02-2009, 10:13 PM

well, there it is. It would come off so I tore it in half with my bare hands!!!!! JK, it broke while trying to remove the knuckle arm from the tie rod end.

TOYOTA 1 · 11-02-2009, 10:14 PM

lol tried a pickle fork yet? if you use the right size, it wont damage the tre like some say.

anyway, yea it will get it hot enough.

tmcorbin · 11-03-2009, 03:35 AM

I have used propane torches before, but yours really seems to be on there. Good luck

Etype R · 11-03-2009, 05:58 AM

I use mapp gas when I need heat, its worked well on TRE's in the past for me. Give it a few good wacks from the top with a 4lb mallet and it will pop right out, if you get it hot enough.

live4soccer7 · 11-03-2009, 07:15 AM

I honestly do not think the pickle fork will work. This thing is on there and on there good. I was able to brace the knuckle arm right next to the tre and I could it it as hard as I wanted with a 10lb hammer and still nothing. As you can see, it thrashed the pitman arm puller. I'll try the propane today, it seems this is all I have left.

Etype R · 11-03-2009, 07:28 AM

I tried removing the old TRE on my stock steering this weekend while installing the crossover steering. I tried a pickle fork, hitting it from every angle with a hammer, and some heat. It did not budge, and I didn't feel like holding a torch to it for 10 minutes. So I just cut the tie rod

Etype R · 11-03-2009, 07:34 AM

I should add though, that I have removed some pretty bad TRE's with a lot of heat from a mapp gas torch and good hits from a mallet, just keep heating it up until it pops. Don't give up

live4soccer7 · 11-03-2009, 09:58 AM

I won't. Don't worry about that. It's about to snow hear any my other vehicle has summer performance tires with rear wheel drive and front engine. I've got to make progress or I'll be stranded. ha ha

TOYOTA 1 · 11-03-2009, 01:07 PM

you will never know unless you try

live4soccer7 · 11-03-2009, 01:46 PM

ha ha. you talking about the car? Here's an example. I have the slightest uphill grade on my driveway. I'm talking small. I had to back my car about 15 feet down to do something and there was snow on the ground. I could not even move it back forward. I had to have people push, otherwise it wouldn't even budge. Pretty sure if the snow flies before the truck gets done, I will be stranded. Almost guaranteed.

live4soccer7 · 11-03-2009, 07:37 PM

I've about had it with this damn thing!!!!!!! map torch did NOTHING! What else is there? I've got to get this thing off or I'm gonna burn my 4runner.

TOYOTA 1 · 11-03-2009, 07:38 PM

try a pickle fork yet?

lol sorry i had to

live4soccer7 · 11-03-2009, 08:00 PM

yes, not working. It almost looks like it's pulling the ball out of the joint instead of the arm coming off of the stud. That's how bad this is. I heated the freakin thing until it was red hot on my last try and still nothing. I'm smashing this thing with a 10lb sludge (a bfh). I need some sort of puller made for this so I can at least separate and use my knuckle arm again. I've already come to the conclusion that I'm getting new tre's. Anyone have input? Cause I'm in need of some. Thanks for all the support.

Is there something I'm missing? I removed the bolt on the top of the stud and I have the knuckle arm supported right next to the tre so that I can smash the hell out of it with a hammer causing the stud to go down (well that was the goal anyways).

Etype R · 11-03-2009, 08:03 PM

you have sprayed everything with PB blaster or something similar several times, right? If not start soaking it.

Any lift on this truck? High steer would fix it

10-26-2009, 10:21 PM	#4 (permalink)
Etype R Registered User Join Date: Oct 2005 Posts: 294	The TRE (Tie Rod End) has a tapered end that wedges into the arm, you need to either wack the TRE down with a hammer or use a pickle fork to seperate it. __________________ 1985 Toyota 4Runner - Full SR5 package - 4 inch lift - 35" tires

10-27-2009, 03:26 AM	#6 (permalink)
tmcorbin Registered User Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Eastern NC Posts: 148	If you have a propane(spelling) torch, heat up the threaded end of the TRE until the grease in the TRE knuckle starts to smoke. Then quickly hit the threaded end with a hammer to knock it out. Either use a brass bar, or leave the castle nut on the treads to protect them. If you have already banged up the threads dont worry, TRE's are farly cheap. __________________ 85 4runner 22re, 170K, clean and straight. Still working through 20 years of scheduled maint. Future plans, engbldr street RV head, cam and OS valves, engbldr over haul kit, Marlin Crawler trany rebuild kit, T-case rebuild, 2" lift, interior, repaint. Currently 20mpg, Sound great, using 1qt of oil every two days.

10-27-2009, 06:52 AM	#7 (permalink)
Etype R Registered User Join Date: Oct 2005 Posts: 294	You can get a pickle fork pretty cheap, $10-20. __________________ 1985 Toyota 4Runner - Full SR5 package - 4 inch lift - 35" tires

10-27-2009, 07:37 AM	#8 (permalink)
waskillywabbit Super Moderator-Sponsoring Member Staff Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: Tuscaloosa, AL Posts: 14,546	Pickle fork tends to ruin the boot on the TRE and the hammer method tends to mushroom the bolt end. I have a small pitman arm puller that pops them right off with a few hits from an impact. __________________ WabFab Off-Road, LLC MySpace Twitter Facebook 7th Annual South East 4Runner Jamboree, 2010 The toughest part of a Jeep is the chick driving it. WabFab Off-Road 4th Anniversary Sale

10-27-2009, 07:48 AM	#9 (permalink)
Etype R Registered User Join Date: Oct 2005 Posts: 294	Probably time for him to replace the TRE's anyways __________________ 1985 Toyota 4Runner - Full SR5 package - 4 inch lift - 35" tires

10-26-2009, 09:54 PM	#3 (permalink)
live4soccer7 Registered User Join Date: Nov 2008 Posts: 431	I think I've already taken the nut off. I'm fairly new to all the terminology, but I'm learning. You mean the nut that is on top of the knuckle arm on the end that isn't free in the pic? You can't really see, but it's off (if that's what you're referring to). Thanks for the help.

10-26-2009, 11:04 PM	#5 (permalink)
live4soccer7 Registered User Join Date: Nov 2008 Posts: 431	I don't have a pickle fork and I tried using something kind of similar, but it didn't work (just got some grease to ooze out of the joint. I've also tried beating on it a bit with a hammer and still no luck. I'll have to try more of the hammer method. Thanks for the tips.

10-27-2009, 08:08 AM	#10 (permalink)
4Crawler Contributing Member Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: SF Bay Area, CA Posts: 7,828	I have some tips on removing tie rod end type of joints below and X2 on the heating trick: - http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...ringStabilizer __________________ 1985 Toyota 4Runner SR-5, 22REC engine, dual t-cases, 4.88 gears, dual ARBs, 33x10.50 BFGs or 35x12.50 MTRs r.c.brown@ieee.org TruckEditor@tlca.org Project: 4Crawler 4Crawler OffRoad Gettin'Off 4WD Club

11-02-2009, 10:11 PM	#11 (permalink)
live4soccer7 Registered User Join Date: Nov 2008 Posts: 431	This is what happened to the pitman arm puller that I got today. I guess it's off to the torch. I do not have an oxy acetylene torch, but I have one of those smaller propane torches. Would something like that work? I've got to get this thing off now b/c the stud is ruined. Beat the hell out of it with a 10lb sludge hammer with now luck. Looks like I'll be replacing the tie rod ends after all. lol. It's not letting me upload any pics for some reason, but I'll try again in a couple minutes

11-02-2009, 10:13 PM	#12 (permalink)
live4soccer7 Registered User Join Date: Nov 2008 Posts: 431	well, there it is. It would come off so I tore it in half with my bare hands!!!!! JK, it broke while trying to remove the knuckle arm from the tie rod end. Attached Thumbnails

11-03-2009, 03:35 AM	#14 (permalink)
tmcorbin Registered User Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Eastern NC Posts: 148	I have used propane torches before, but yours really seems to be on there. Good luck __________________ 85 4runner 22re, 170K, clean and straight. Still working through 20 years of scheduled maint. Future plans, engbldr street RV head, cam and OS valves, engbldr over haul kit, Marlin Crawler trany rebuild kit, T-case rebuild, 2" lift, interior, repaint. Currently 20mpg, Sound great, using 1qt of oil every two days.

11-03-2009, 05:58 AM	#15 (permalink)
Etype R Registered User Join Date: Oct 2005 Posts: 294	I use mapp gas when I need heat, its worked well on TRE's in the past for me. Give it a few good wacks from the top with a 4lb mallet and it will pop right out, if you get it hot enough. __________________ 1985 Toyota 4Runner - Full SR5 package - 4 inch lift - 35" tires

11-03-2009, 07:15 AM	#16 (permalink)
live4soccer7 Registered User Join Date: Nov 2008 Posts: 431	I honestly do not think the pickle fork will work. This thing is on there and on there good. I was able to brace the knuckle arm right next to the tre and I could it it as hard as I wanted with a 10lb hammer and still nothing. As you can see, it thrashed the pitman arm puller. I'll try the propane today, it seems this is all I have left.

11-03-2009, 07:28 AM	#17 (permalink)
Etype R Registered User Join Date: Oct 2005 Posts: 294	I tried removing the old TRE on my stock steering this weekend while installing the crossover steering. I tried a pickle fork, hitting it from every angle with a hammer, and some heat. It did not budge, and I didn't feel like holding a torch to it for 10 minutes. So I just cut the tie rod __________________ 1985 Toyota 4Runner - Full SR5 package - 4 inch lift - 35" tires

11-03-2009, 07:34 AM	#18 (permalink)
Etype R Registered User Join Date: Oct 2005 Posts: 294	I should add though, that I have removed some pretty bad TRE's with a lot of heat from a mapp gas torch and good hits from a mallet, just keep heating it up until it pops. Don't give up __________________ 1985 Toyota 4Runner - Full SR5 package - 4 inch lift - 35" tires

11-03-2009, 09:58 AM	#19 (permalink)
live4soccer7 Registered User Join Date: Nov 2008 Posts: 431	I won't. Don't worry about that. It's about to snow hear any my other vehicle has summer performance tires with rear wheel drive and front engine. I've got to make progress or I'll be stranded. ha ha

11-03-2009, 01:46 PM	#21 (permalink)
live4soccer7 Registered User Join Date: Nov 2008 Posts: 431	ha ha. you talking about the car? Here's an example. I have the slightest uphill grade on my driveway. I'm talking small. I had to back my car about 15 feet down to do something and there was snow on the ground. I could not even move it back forward. I had to have people push, otherwise it wouldn't even budge. Pretty sure if the snow flies before the truck gets done, I will be stranded. Almost guaranteed.

11-03-2009, 07:37 PM	#22 (permalink)
live4soccer7 Registered User Join Date: Nov 2008 Posts: 431	I've about had it with this damn thing!!!!!!! map torch did NOTHING! What else is there? I've got to get this thing off or I'm gonna burn my 4runner.

11-03-2009, 08:00 PM	#24 (permalink)
live4soccer7 Registered User Join Date: Nov 2008 Posts: 431	yes, not working. It almost looks like it's pulling the ball out of the joint instead of the arm coming off of the stud. That's how bad this is. I heated the freakin thing until it was red hot on my last try and still nothing. I'm smashing this thing with a 10lb sludge (a bfh). I need some sort of puller made for this so I can at least separate and use my knuckle arm again. I've already come to the conclusion that I'm getting new tre's. Anyone have input? Cause I'm in need of some. Thanks for all the support. Is there something I'm missing? I removed the bolt on the top of the stud and I have the knuckle arm supported right next to the tre so that I can smash the hell out of it with a hammer causing the stud to go down (well that was the goal anyways). Last edited by live4soccer7; 11-03-2009 at 08:02 PM.

11-03-2009, 08:03 PM	#25 (permalink)
Etype R Registered User Join Date: Oct 2005 Posts: 294	you have sprayed everything with PB blaster or something similar several times, right? If not start soaking it. Any lift on this truck? High steer would fix it __________________ 1985 Toyota 4Runner - Full SR5 package - 4 inch lift - 35" tires

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