Rears up Front
#2
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Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Northglenn, CO
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#3
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Here's how I did mine, probably one of the first rear->front swaps done in the US:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/4R_suspe...II.shtml#Front
If you have crossover steering, it is not too hard.
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/4R_suspe...II.shtml#Front
If you have crossover steering, it is not too hard.
#6
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Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Mississauga, Ontario, Canada
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Why spend the money?
IT's cheaper to do rears up front and chevys out back.
Even with a lift kit you have to weld in the mount of the steering box (IFS box) and most kits come with longer rear springs which means welding mounts in for those too.
IT's cheaper to do rears up front and chevys out back.
Even with a lift kit you have to weld in the mount of the steering box (IFS box) and most kits come with longer rear springs which means welding mounts in for those too.
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#12
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Lol you wont flex worth a damn... I had a friend say to me "why are you building a rockcrawler if you dont like rock crawling". My answer to him was that it was the right way.
Your gonna build a mall crawler.
Your gonna build a mall crawler.
#13
Don't let everyone tell you how to build your truck. Mine had some "lift kit" springs on it before I put the rears on. I thought they sucked and all that and I gave them to a buddy. He put them on his truck and pulled the torque arm and shocks off the front (too short) and I was really suprised at how well those pigs flexed. They were like 3 thick leaves too. I was amazed.
If you don't have big bucks to spend then lift kit springs are definately the way to go. It becomes very time and money consuming to put rears on your stock SA rig.
If you don't have big bucks to spend then lift kit springs are definately the way to go. It becomes very time and money consuming to put rears on your stock SA rig.
#15
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- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/...ftSpacer.shtml
or you could re-drill your spring perches and plates to move the axle back about 1.5" if so desired.
#17
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Probably best to measure your current drive shaft length now and then measure after installing the springs and see how much it changed. Be sure to check both compressed and extended lengths before and after since that will all change with the different springs.
Quick check on compressed length is to drive the passenger front up on a ramp, extended is easy, use a jack to lift the front tires off the ground.
Quick check on compressed length is to drive the passenger front up on a ramp, extended is easy, use a jack to lift the front tires off the ground.
#18
Probably best to measure your current drive shaft length now and then measure after installing the springs and see how much it changed. Be sure to check both compressed and extended lengths before and after since that will all change with the different springs.
Quick check on compressed length is to drive the passenger front up on a ramp, extended is easy, use a jack to lift the front tires off the ground.
Quick check on compressed length is to drive the passenger front up on a ramp, extended is easy, use a jack to lift the front tires off the ground.
#19
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You can probably get those spring hanger pins from Toyota or from some on-line shop or grab a set at a junkyard. Other option is to get some metal (like a thick flat washer) that fits inside the big hole, drill out the inside to fit your new bolt (likely 18mm) and then weld that washer into the hole and grind the wed smooth.
Or hack off the original hangers (they are prone to cracking on the early trucks anyway) and fab up a new hanger:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...ringHangerDrop
Or you can purchase a front hanger from any shop that sells solid axle swap kits.
Or hack off the original hangers (they are prone to cracking on the early trucks anyway) and fab up a new hanger:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...ringHangerDrop
Or you can purchase a front hanger from any shop that sells solid axle swap kits.