New Weber 32/36 DGEV and de-smog, oh so niceeee! - Page 4

maistroyoda · 10-30-2009, 02:35 PM

Your distributor vacuum is partially correct. The top one you have plugged which is correct. The bottom one that is cut should have a vacuum line running to the passenger side of the weber carb. There should be a copper tube on the that side of the weber to connect this vacuum line. Also, this should be the only vacuum line attached to the weber if it is a 32/36. Not really sure bout the 38.

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maistroyoda · 10-30-2009, 02:40 PM

You should be able to adjust your idle speed via your carb. I need to do this as well since mine is idling around 1100 rpm. Also I would highly recommend getting an inline fuel pressure regulator. I just got mine the other night at OReilly's for $30. Install took less than 5 minutes.

matthew5olson · 10-30-2009, 03:06 PM

the other 2 wires you mentioned at the end of your post, the ones that are hanging. Those are the wires underneath the throttle cable hookup? Or are you talking about the one underneath the intake manifold? Or you mean both sets?
And what about that green one with the red tracer. That one probably goes into your harness huh? Thanks for your help. I've been checking my email all day hoping someone would post on this. Its the last couple things I need done to finish my engine swap.

maistroyoda · 10-30-2009, 03:13 PM

maistroyoda · 10-30-2009, 03:14 PM

maistroyoda · 10-30-2009, 03:15 PM

maistroyoda · 10-30-2009, 03:16 PM

maistroyoda · 10-30-2009, 03:17 PM

maistroyoda · 10-30-2009, 03:17 PM

maistroyoda · 10-30-2009, 03:23 PM

3rd pic shows the electric choke connected to the stock wiring. Two extra wires seen are not used. They're connected to a greean stock connector located on the passenger side of the engine compartment. 4th pic shows the red electric chock, with the distributor vacuum line located right below it, and the brake booster vacuum located to the southwest of those two which goes from the manifold to the brake booster. I believe this was one of the ones in question for you. 5th and 6th pic show this brake booster vacuum line in better detail. Hope this helps.

matthew5olson · 10-30-2009, 03:26 PM

This was a big help I appreciate it. It looks like I had everything pretty much correct. I started it and let it run a bit (no exhaust) I think all the carb parts are sort of bound up from not being used.The throttle gets stuck wide open. I fiddled with it while it was running a bit and got it to idle good and I could rev it back up again. I have a rebuild kit I'm gonna have to use. I guess I'll take everything apart and soak it in gasoline overnight to try and free it all up.

maistroyoda · 10-30-2009, 06:37 PM

Sometimes the throttle sticks if the throttle shaft nut is on too tight. Loosen it up some and that might do it. Mine was stuck all the way in when I first installed the new carb and pressed the gas pedal. So I just loosened it a little at a time until it was just right. Just be sure to put the lock tak on this nut or else it will get loose and come off.

matthew5olson · 10-30-2009, 07:10 PM

any chance you got a pic of your throttle shaft nut. My throttle cable was for a fuel injection intake so I'm not sure if I can make it work. If I could see a carbed one that might give me a better idea of what to do.

maistroyoda · 11-03-2009, 08:34 PM

I'm having my truck painted right now so I can't get a pic. The throttle shaft nut is located on the rear of the weber carb. It holds in place a C bracket which is used to connect to your factory throttle. The throttle shaft nut does not go on tight at all as it needs to be somewhat loose to easily turn the throttle. It holds in place with a locking washer.

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10-30-2009, 02:40 PM	#77 (permalink)
maistroyoda Registered User Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: West Texas Posts: 71	You should be able to adjust your idle speed via your carb. I need to do this as well since mine is idling around 1100 rpm. Also I would highly recommend getting an inline fuel pressure regulator. I just got mine the other night at OReilly's for $30. Install took less than 5 minutes.

10-30-2009, 03:06 PM	#78 (permalink)
matthew5olson Registered User Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: pittsburgh pa Posts: 28	the other 2 wires you mentioned at the end of your post, the ones that are hanging. Those are the wires underneath the throttle cable hookup? Or are you talking about the one underneath the intake manifold? Or you mean both sets? And what about that green one with the red tracer. That one probably goes into your harness huh? Thanks for your help. I've been checking my email all day hoping someone would post on this. Its the last couple things I need done to finish my engine swap.

10-30-2009, 03:13 PM	#79 (permalink)
maistroyoda Registered User Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: West Texas Posts: 71

10-30-2009, 03:14 PM	#80 (permalink)
maistroyoda Registered User Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: West Texas Posts: 71

10-30-2009, 03:15 PM	#81 (permalink)
maistroyoda Registered User Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: West Texas Posts: 71

10-30-2009, 03:16 PM	#82 (permalink)
maistroyoda Registered User Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: West Texas Posts: 71

10-30-2009, 03:17 PM	#83 (permalink)
maistroyoda Registered User Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: West Texas Posts: 71

10-30-2009, 03:17 PM	#84 (permalink)
maistroyoda Registered User Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: West Texas Posts: 71

10-30-2009, 03:23 PM	#85 (permalink)
maistroyoda Registered User Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: West Texas Posts: 71	3rd pic shows the electric choke connected to the stock wiring. Two extra wires seen are not used. They're connected to a greean stock connector located on the passenger side of the engine compartment. 4th pic shows the red electric chock, with the distributor vacuum line located right below it, and the brake booster vacuum located to the southwest of those two which goes from the manifold to the brake booster. I believe this was one of the ones in question for you. 5th and 6th pic show this brake booster vacuum line in better detail. Hope this helps.

10-30-2009, 03:26 PM	#86 (permalink)
matthew5olson Registered User Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: pittsburgh pa Posts: 28	This was a big help I appreciate it. It looks like I had everything pretty much correct. I started it and let it run a bit (no exhaust) I think all the carb parts are sort of bound up from not being used.The throttle gets stuck wide open. I fiddled with it while it was running a bit and got it to idle good and I could rev it back up again. I have a rebuild kit I'm gonna have to use. I guess I'll take everything apart and soak it in gasoline overnight to try and free it all up.

10-30-2009, 06:37 PM	#87 (permalink)
maistroyoda Registered User Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: West Texas Posts: 71	Sometimes the throttle sticks if the throttle shaft nut is on too tight. Loosen it up some and that might do it. Mine was stuck all the way in when I first installed the new carb and pressed the gas pedal. So I just loosened it a little at a time until it was just right. Just be sure to put the lock tak on this nut or else it will get loose and come off.

10-30-2009, 07:10 PM	#88 (permalink)
matthew5olson Registered User Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: pittsburgh pa Posts: 28	any chance you got a pic of your throttle shaft nut. My throttle cable was for a fuel injection intake so I'm not sure if I can make it work. If I could see a carbed one that might give me a better idea of what to do.

11-03-2009, 08:34 PM	#89 (permalink)
maistroyoda Registered User Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: West Texas Posts: 71	I'm having my truck painted right now so I can't get a pic. The throttle shaft nut is located on the rear of the weber carb. It holds in place a C bracket which is used to connect to your factory throttle. The throttle shaft nut does not go on tight at all as it needs to be somewhat loose to easily turn the throttle. It holds in place with a locking washer.