New to me 85 4runner
01-29-2015, 05:41 PM
#41
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Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Central PA
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Cab door window seals and windshields leak but never hard tops. I use a 4'x4' shower curtain with 3' long ratchet straps for bikini top. Measurements are approximate.
01-29-2015, 10:51 PM
#43
Dude this truck is so awesome!! Literally a dream rig. Well I have an 87 sr5 that I'm in love with but a factory solid axle, that just unbeatable. Do you plan to keep the original look?!
01-30-2015, 05:53 AM
#44
I am going to do a mild build. OME 2-3" lift, 33's, sliders and better bumpers w/winch, 4:88's with a Detroit in the rear and trutrac up front. Fender flares so I can cut out the rust to kill it. Same paint and decals. I might repaint it back to stock and then have the decals made and put on. Mild wheeler. Great hunting rig. That I can drive around town and not have my wife pisses at me for making it "big". But mainly a DD/hunting rig.
Edit and slow build. ($$$$$).
Edit and slow build. ($$$$$).
Last edited by thefishguy77; 01-30-2015 at 05:55 AM.
02-10-2015, 09:08 AM
#45
Sounds like a great plan! Don't trash that body or cherry interior!
02-10-2015, 02:49 PM
#46
Yea I want to keep the interior as perfect as possible. As for the body still trying to figure it out. Sliders am a new rear bumper should protect most of the rear for my wheeling purposes. I'm old now so not balls to the wall anymore. I want to cage it but don't want to eff up my interior. Kinda want to put a cage from B pillar back. Still can't figure that out. Good front bumper. Still to be determined might try to make one.
02-10-2015, 11:13 PM
#47
Gotcha. I don't know if I'd do a cage on a clean truck like yours cause you gotta cut the floor. Any updates otherwise?!
02-11-2015, 04:53 PM
#48
Not yet. Got some people interested in my 93 for sale. As soon as that's gone I am startin my motor build. I have a spare motor out of an 89. So I will use that crank and block. Maybe plenum and throttle body for the straight throttle body. Have the block and crank checked and cylinders honed. Then order my head and rebuild kit from engnbldr. Thinking about going with a 268 cam in it as well. With the supra AFM good cam and NWOR header w/2 1/4 cat back exhaust it should be a fun start. Then save for gears and lockers. Then suspension. Pretty sure I can get 33's under with out much help. Just won't be able to stuff them as they are already stuffed. Man if I can only sell this 93. I have a few firearms list locally for sale as well if those go then I start as well. Something got to give. But work has picked up so that good.
There is a set of 8" 4:88's for $600 locally but for that price since I will need set up kits anyways to add lockers I might just go new. It's the cost of the Detroits that's going to hurt. But don't want a lunchbox locker. So buy once cry once.
There is a set of 8" 4:88's for $600 locally but for that price since I will need set up kits anyways to add lockers I might just go new. It's the cost of the Detroits that's going to hurt. But don't want a lunchbox locker. So buy once cry once.
02-12-2015, 08:17 PM
#49
Registered User
02-13-2015, 02:30 PM
#51
E Brake help! Ok so I have had a clunk when I am in reverse and it felt like I was dragging a brake. I had some time today and figured it was probably due for shoes in the rear as the PO hardly did a thing to this rig. Get my breaks and new spring kit and begin to pull my breaks apart. The tires spin with a lot of resistance. Get the drums off both sides and the breaks are hardly worn at all. So I start looking at what might be causing the clunk. I find the on the passenger side the E Brake lever is seemingly pulled all the time and the drivers side is relaxed.
I pulled the pin for the cable and tried to move the lever on its own and it took a BFH and some time before I can get it to move freely. Now when I go to hook the cable back up I notice that the cable is only long enough to hook up if the lever is in the "E Brake Set" position. This also puts tension on the drivers side lever as well. Is this normal? Seems a bit odd. The spring on the drivers side will relax the E Brake as soon as the cable is loose but the passenger side is still not that loose so hey spring is more for looks. Any ideas or insight would be awesome.
Thanks in advance
FYI my spare tire mount unwound with out any trouble. Go figure.
I pulled the pin for the cable and tried to move the lever on its own and it took a BFH and some time before I can get it to move freely. Now when I go to hook the cable back up I notice that the cable is only long enough to hook up if the lever is in the "E Brake Set" position. This also puts tension on the drivers side lever as well. Is this normal? Seems a bit odd. The spring on the drivers side will relax the E Brake as soon as the cable is loose but the passenger side is still not that loose so hey spring is more for looks. Any ideas or insight would be awesome.
Thanks in advance
FYI my spare tire mount unwound with out any trouble. Go figure.
02-13-2015, 04:16 PM
#52
Update:
I kinda feel like Jeremy from top gear UK. After taking the rear breaks apart and finding nothing that looked wrong. I did the only logical thing I knew to do. I pounded on the E Break lever with a BFH (with the cable disconnected) till it moved freely ish. I then hooked it back up and took it for a test drive. Breaks great and no clunk in reverse. See hammers do fix a lot of problems. Just ask a Toyota owner.
Side note. I swapped my spare for a Toyota tire I had laying around. I figured since the date stamp was 1985 it probably wouldn't even take the weight of the truck. :-)
I kinda feel like Jeremy from top gear UK. After taking the rear breaks apart and finding nothing that looked wrong. I did the only logical thing I knew to do. I pounded on the E Break lever with a BFH (with the cable disconnected) till it moved freely ish. I then hooked it back up and took it for a test drive. Breaks great and no clunk in reverse. See hammers do fix a lot of problems. Just ask a Toyota owner.
Side note. I swapped my spare for a Toyota tire I had laying around. I figured since the date stamp was 1985 it probably wouldn't even take the weight of the truck. :-)
02-18-2015, 06:40 PM
#53
Well my rear window key switch started to not want to roll the window down. So I pulled the tailgate apart and popped the lock cylinder apart and put some dielectric grease where it looked like contact should be made. It seemed to work better. She doesn't seem to want to run smoothly some of the time. Almost like an air intake leak but intermittent. Hard to tell but I know it's almost certainly also partly related to my exhaust leak. I just am going to try and hope she lasts till I get my 93 pickup sold.
02-21-2015, 08:22 PM
#54
So I keep seeing an add from a company called Cores West in Seattle. They advertise on CL seem to have good prices for gears. Almost to good to be true. Anybody heard of them
http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/ptd/4900527752.html
http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/ptd/4900527752.html
Last edited by thefishguy77; 02-21-2015 at 08:24 PM.
02-21-2015, 09:05 PM
#55
I agree sounds too good. Some guys have the experience to look at a gear set and tell by quality if it is what the box says. Well I'm not that guy.
He mentioned in ad trailgear solid pinion spacers. Not accusing just say wonder what dealer price is for trailgear house brand gears.
He mentioned in ad trailgear solid pinion spacers. Not accusing just say wonder what dealer price is for trailgear house brand gears.
02-22-2015, 07:25 AM
#59
That's why I am conflicted on building it. Granted it's not going to be big or anything. It's just these rigs are getting more rare every day it seems. Oh well I looked forever and finally found one. Unless I hit the lotto or start making enough money to convince my wife to let me have 2of them in the driveway I will probably end up building this one. Still have to do a motor swap sooner rather than later.
