Joined the '85 SR5 4Runner club
09-30-2009, 11:00 AM
#61
Been to lazy to do a screen capture of the relief valve. But if you look at the oil pump, its the large nut/bolt on the top of the pump. If your pump is leaking, I would recomend replacing the front seal with one from Toyota as it sits further into the pump. Get a new Oring to go behind the pump, and check the relief valve is tight. The entire job can be done in 2 hours if you take your time and keep double checking things on the computer.
Also finally ordered up my new tires today, I'll post up pictures once I get them installed
09-30-2009, 08:09 PM
#62
Registered User
What size tire are you going with? I am going to get a set of spacers and then try out my 255/85/16's from my Taco on the 4runner and see how it runs/handles etc... It's hard to go down a size in tire, but its really only an inch total.
10-07-2009, 08:33 PM
#65
Registered User
Did you go with 1.5" spacers?
The new tires look great! I will be shopping for some new ones in the next year. Lots of decisions to make..and getting married is cutting into the fun fund.
The new tires look great! I will be shopping for some new ones in the next year. Lots of decisions to make..and getting married is cutting into the fun fund.
10-07-2009, 08:40 PM
#66
Yup, 1.5" spacers all around for now. I do plan on swapping in a IFS rear axle some time soon.
I was torn between the new MTR and the KM2 tires. From all the reading I did, the MTR's sounded like the better tire off road, and quieter on road as well. The only concern I have is tread life with the MTR's. I know the old ones were only good for around 25-30k. But one review said he put 6k on the new tires and they were down 1/32" so far.
I was torn between the new MTR and the KM2 tires. From all the reading I did, the MTR's sounded like the better tire off road, and quieter on road as well. The only concern I have is tread life with the MTR's. I know the old ones were only good for around 25-30k. But one review said he put 6k on the new tires and they were down 1/32" so far.
10-08-2009, 10:47 AM
#68
Yeah I was noticing that as well, still have the old fenders. Might cut those up first, see what i end up with. The weathers getting a little cold to paint the new certifit fenders. Might be best off putting the old ones back on for the winter and trim them a little.
This wasn't a problem until I put the 35's on
This wasn't a problem until I put the 35's on
11-02-2009, 04:57 AM
#70
I finally installed a cross over kit over the weekend I picked up a lightly used trail gear setup, and I have had a IFS box waiting in the garage for awhile now. The hardest part was probably removing the steering shaft from the firewall. Had one of my friends help me, it took us about 12 hours and 6 beers each. I took my time mocking things up, and tripple checking everything along the way.
On the road it has already made a huge improvement. My stock steering system was getting very sloppy. It would randomly swerve left or right, wandered around the road quite a bit. Also last time I was out wheeling I bent the tie rod pretty good.
I will try to snap some pics of it installed, never got around to it this weekend
I picked up a lightly used trail gear setup, and I have had a IFS box waiting in the garage for awhile now. The hardest part was probably removing the steering shaft from the firewall. Had one of my friends help me, it took us about 12 hours and 6 beers each. I took my time mocking things up, and tripple checking everything along the way.On the road it has already made a huge improvement. My stock steering system was getting very sloppy. It would randomly swerve left or right, wandered around the road quite a bit. Also last time I was out wheeling I bent the tie rod pretty good.
I will try to snap some pics of it installed, never got around to it this weekend
11-02-2009, 07:32 AM
#72
Registered User
After I did crossover steering, I started rubbing up front more than I had in the past. The gearbox I put in is almost shot, so my steering is just as bad now as it was before crossover 
. Now I am going to have to buy another IFS Box, but thanks to cash for clunkers, there are a few around
My brake calipers decided to take a poop on me, so I am going to put the V6 IFS calipers on now too. Its a never ending process.
What was the name of the place that had the 3D8 paint for our trucks?
. Now I am going to have to buy another IFS Box, but thanks to cash for clunkers, there are a few around My brake calipers decided to take a poop on me, so I am going to put the V6 IFS calipers on now too. Its a never ending process.
What was the name of the place that had the 3D8 paint for our trucks?
11-02-2009, 08:45 AM
#73
I ended up going to napa and having them mix up some paint for me, I haven't shot a drop of it yet though. I have that site book marked at home though, I will post it up tonight.
I was going to rebuild the IFS box before doing the crossover, but never got around to it. I might pick up another IFS box next year and rebuild it, just for peace of mind. At least replacing the IFS box is a pretty simple job
I was going to rebuild the IFS box before doing the crossover, but never got around to it. I might pick up another IFS box next year and rebuild it, just for peace of mind. At least replacing the IFS box is a pretty simple job
11-12-2009, 06:34 AM
#75
Gathering up parts do upgrade my brakes all around.... Was trying to do it on the cheap, but so far I have already spent about $350 on parts. And I need to drop at least another $300 
V6 calipers and LC vented rotors up front
New front wheel bearings
New front wheel studs
SA front rotors and calipers going on the rear axle
swapping in a IFS rear axle
Converting to a GM master cylinder
Going to need a rear brake proportioning valve
I'll try to take some pictures as I progress. I have a set of spare hubs I am going to strip down and paint. Then I can install the new wheel bearings and rotors on them before swapping everything over. This should save me some time on the swap. Planning on doing the front brakes on the 21st, the rear brakes will be at a later time. I still need to order more parts and rebuild the front calipers before I do the rear brakes.
V6 calipers and LC vented rotors up front
New front wheel bearings
New front wheel studs
SA front rotors and calipers going on the rear axle
swapping in a IFS rear axle
Converting to a GM master cylinder
Going to need a rear brake proportioning valve
I'll try to take some pictures as I progress. I have a set of spare hubs I am going to strip down and paint. Then I can install the new wheel bearings and rotors on them before swapping everything over. This should save me some time on the swap. Planning on doing the front brakes on the 21st, the rear brakes will be at a later time. I still need to order more parts and rebuild the front calipers before I do the rear brakes.
11-12-2009, 04:03 PM
#76
Registered User
Man, I am right behind you, but I am not doing the rears. I have read so many posts on the front IFS swap that the information and misinformation is driving me nuts. I was going to just do the calipers and rotors, but then I decided that I might as well pull the mc and booster to have a matched set. The calipers and rotors are new from Autozone and they ended up being about $120 after the core exchangem but I am going to the junkyard tomorrow for the MC and booster. I am going to run some all pro spacers all the way around in case I have any clearance issues with the wheels and so I can attempt to throw on the 255/85's for a long road trip.
I read about people having different issues with different parts so I figured the safest bet would be a matched set from the MC, Booster and at least the front calipers.
I am not looking forward to getting the studs out though.
I read about people having different issues with different parts so I figured the safest bet would be a matched set from the MC, Booster and at least the front calipers.
I am not looking forward to getting the studs out though.
11-12-2009, 06:26 PM
#77
I picked up a brass drift front harbor freight for $8, they call it a brass punch. That made getting the studs out very easy.
Tonight I stopped at a junk yard and plopped down $50 for used calipers, was going to rebuild them. Took them apart, and one of the 8 pistons was pitted. After seeing Autozone calipers were only $33 after the core charge, I jumped in the truck and dropped down another $70. I couldn't use my SA calipers as cores, since they will be going in the back.
$120 for front calipers
$20 brake pads
$80 new wheel bearings
$65 LC rotors
$30 new front wheel studs
Thats a total of $310 for the front brakes alone. I also ordered a set of rear disk brake brackets from Techtafab with a GM MC adapter for $125 shipped. His welds are to pretty to paint And to add to the cost of all this, I spent $50 for some tools and gloves to make this job easier.
Tonight I stopped at a junk yard and plopped down $50 for used calipers, was going to rebuild them. Took them apart, and one of the 8 pistons was pitted. After seeing Autozone calipers were only $33 after the core charge, I jumped in the truck and dropped down another $70. I couldn't use my SA calipers as cores, since they will be going in the back.
$120 for front calipers
$20 brake pads
$80 new wheel bearings
$65 LC rotors
$30 new front wheel studs
Thats a total of $310 for the front brakes alone. I also ordered a set of rear disk brake brackets from Techtafab with a GM MC adapter for $125 shipped. His welds are to pretty to paint
And to add to the cost of all this, I spent $50 for some tools and gloves to make this job easier.
11-12-2009, 08:08 PM
#78
Registered User
Yeah, my original plan was to pull calipers and rotors from this pick and pull that is full O' 90's Toyota thanks to cash for clunkers. The calipers were going to be $10 each, but then I found the ones at the zone and I went that route.
I just had one of my calipers take a crap on me while going to work and I had to replace it in the parking lot so the thought of having to do that again made me go for the Autozone ones.
However, I just looked at them and one of them is a S13wb or whatever the casting is for the bigger V6 brakes and the other one has completely different codes on it. Did companies like AC Delco make their own toyota replacement parts? I am going to trade it in for a matching one.
I just had one of my calipers take a crap on me while going to work and I had to replace it in the parking lot so the thought of having to do that again made me go for the Autozone ones.
However, I just looked at them and one of them is a S13wb or whatever the casting is for the bigger V6 brakes and the other one has completely different codes on it. Did companies like AC Delco make their own toyota replacement parts? I am going to trade it in for a matching one.
11-12-2009, 08:17 PM
#79
This thread needs more pictures again...
One of the calipers was complete with the pins and all, the other is not. No big deal, pins are cheap.
Pretty simple GM MC adapter
Rear disk brake brackets, welds are almost to pretty to cover up with paint.
I would have used my SA calipers for core's, but I am using them on the back. So even with buying the junk yard calipers, still made the autozone calipers cheaper on the core charge.
One of the calipers was complete with the pins and all, the other is not. No big deal, pins are cheap.
Pretty simple GM MC adapter
Rear disk brake brackets, welds are almost to pretty to cover up with paint.
I would have used my SA calipers for core's, but I am using them on the back. So even with buying the junk yard calipers, still made the autozone calipers cheaper on the core charge.
11-14-2009, 05:04 AM
#80
Brake upgrades are never cheap, but man oh man do they make your Toyota stop better.
Discs front and rear stop so much better when dialed in right than rear drums, especially in the mud and muck.
Discs front and rear stop so much better when dialed in right than rear drums, especially in the mud and muck.
