Yotaboy

It started out that the e brake was not holding and also the pedal was alittle spongy. Pulled the drums and found out that there is no lining (good reason). So I got some shoes and went to replace them and whem I started to pull the springs they where pretty rusty so I went back to Napa and got springs and wheel cylinders. Replaced it all and bled the system using the old jar and hose combo like ive done 100 times before. Now to the problem, the pedal goes to the floor only to engage the front brakes. Ive bled all five bleeder valves that I know of and have gone through 2 quarts of brake fluid. I get good fluid out of the front calipers and the proportioning valve. The rear cylinders are pumping out alot of air and turning the fluid white. Ive also tried to use a vacuum pump to bleed them also. What do yall think?

waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

Did you let the master cylinder go dry? If so, you need to bleed it first, refill and then rebleed the rest including the LSPV.

Yotaboy

The master cylinder never went dry.

waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

Then it sounds like you didn't set something back up right in the rear drums.

mehret

Is there any fluid coming from the wheel cylinders? I would try gravity bleeding them and also crawl under the truck and look for any leaks along the brake lines.

Yotaboy

There is fluid coming out but it has alot of air coming with it too. Like I said before, Ive gone through 2 qts of brake fluid when I was bleeding it. Ive also checked the lines for leaks. I was thinking it might be the master cylinder but im getting good fluid out of the LSPV. It might be the LSPV. I was just seeing what yall think it could be. Tomorrow Ill pull the drums again to see if something is misplaced but the e brake is working fine so that is why I was thinking it was something to do with the hydrolics.

My814x4

Did you adjust your brake shoes. An initial brake adjust is needed after installing shoes.

Yotaboy

yes i did

PirateFins

what order are you bleeding them in? DR, PR, PF, DF, LSPV?

Yotaboy

I first only bled the wheel cylinders. Then I bled them all by LF RF LSPV RR LR. Maybe that is whats wrong but I did it closest to furthest like the instructions said on my vacuum bleeder.

YotaJunky

I would have thought that one would bleed from the furthest to closest and then do the LSPV last. I also agree with a previous poster about bench bleeding the master before doing the lines. I went through 2 MC's before finally getting it right. I also used a pressure bleeder which sped up the process.

Troy

the_supernerd

Are you sure that the new wheel cylinders are good? I got one once that was missing a piston seal. It had the dust boot so I did not catch it right away and found out a few days later when I noticed brake fluid leaking on to the ground.

PirateFins

You should be bleeding furthest to closest. I would have a helper do it the old fashioned way of pumping and holding the pedal. Mas. Cyl. then DR, PR, PF, DF, LSPV is the proper order.

Yotaboy

Ive been driving it for about a week and no leaks that I can find.

I bled it LR RR RF LF yesterday and still doing the same thing. Ill do it again today once I get some help.

Thanks for all the info guys. I will post later today to let yall know what the deal is.

Yotaboy

Just replaced the master cylinder and brakes are working fine. Seems alittle funny that it went out at the same time that I replace the back brakes.

the_supernerd

I have heard that sometimes the master cylinder can go out after bleeding the brakes because corrosion builds up in it and then when the pedal is pushed to the floor the corrosion tears up the seals. This did not seem quite right when I read it, but it makes sense in your case. I just changed my rear cylinders also and my brakes do not feel quite right. I have checked everything and the only thing left that makes sense is the master cylinder.