Strokedcoupe

Done a search but haven't seen any completed megasquirts

Mr_Random

I just upgraded to Toyota EFI, I had to Frankenstein a chopped up 87 harness with a super clean 95 (2wd) harness in order to run an 87 (4wd) computer for its' knock circuit (have an extra computer as a result).

Either way, along the way I have learned a TON about the stock EFI, and started reading into the MSII as my next major upgrade.

I'd recommend taking a later model 22re intake as a base for your injection (better flow, simpler tb design, etc), try to get all the injectors and sensors with it (at the very least they can make good spares). Fuel rail too!

Make sure you get high impedance injectors, that way you can run sequential injection on the MSII with only two drivers (if I remember correctly).

The Toyota stock harness is a good starting ground if you have one to modify, if not it still shouldn't be hard. Things you need to build the harness;

Sensors and Plugs w/pigtails
*4 injector plugs (duh)
*Coolant temp sensor
*Coolant temp sender
*Knock Sensor
*TPS
*Oil pressure sender
*02 sensor (wideband would be best, but costly!)

Chevy IAT sensor is needed, as you will be running a vac line to the MSII's MAP sensor, so no need for an AFM, which normally houses the 22re's IAT. Fortunately, the Cold Start Injector can be removed from the plenum (MSII doesn't need one), and that hole is directly tapped for 3/4" NPT (I believe) for that IAT.

Distributor and coil/igniter can be re-used, pretty sure you just need to provide an ignition on signal, power, and ground to the spark computer. MSII can, however, directly fire coils, so if you wanted to invest in say, two MSD Blasters (or Similar high-po coil) and the MSII additional coil driver, you could use the stock distributor to run a Wasted Spark system.

I'd figure a max 75ft of 16ga wire, but you would want multiple colors. You will need at least 10ft of 10ga for what ever fuel pump you decide to run (search around, there are plenty of external pumps, for Astro Vans and Celica's if I believe, that will work well).

Hoses, radiator upper and lower, some vacuum ones, high pressure fuel lines, etc.

FPR, integrated gauge preferable... stock 22re can be used, but if you are going to upgrade everything else, why not this part also?

2-4 relays, you can run one for ign-on for both the computer and the spark, and one for the fuel pump, but I would recommend one each for spark and computer. I also have an electric fan, so I have a fourth relay for that.

Mini fuse box, 4-10 fuse slots (I'm running an expandable four slot) for those relays.

Soldering Iron and other equipment (duh)

Lots of heat shrink and some good wire loom wrap.

Everything you need to know about everything 22re and MSII:
http://www.diyautotune.com/tech_arti...oyota_22re.htm

I will post more as I figure more out/plan my own upgrade. I used a stock harness, however, so when I make my MSII up, I'll only be modifying it with additional injector wires and installing the IAT stuff. I would, however, like to build a harness from scratch, with enough incentive ($$), I could make a second when done.

whitedevil666

I am going to be installing ms2 on my 94 4runner. It's got the 3vze so it will be a little different, but I have built and run megasquirt before. It's a great system if you have patients and are willing to learn. I'll post a link when I start the thread.

Mr_Random

Have you done this yet? I am about to put my engine back together and hopefully get it running this week, I'll try to remember pictures and stuff!

BTW I have already assembled my MSII and adapted the wiring harness to run 2-injector batch fire, while adding a GM IAT and stripping the old computer to use its' plug. I'll use the built in MAP and ignition controls.

gennro

ive done it and still running it.

Mr_Random

How was the Edis4 implemented? Is that a wasted spark arrangement?

gennro

Yes it is a wasted spark setup. I have the 36-1 wheel welded onto the back side of the crank pulley w/ VR sensor mounted on a bracket on the bottom side. I use a Dodge 420A 2.4L coil pack and plug wires. This allows me to eliminate the distributor and Toyota VAST ignition system for a much more reliable setup.

Mr_Random

FINALLY getting mine up and running today, no EDIS for me (although I want to in the future), but ironically enough, in order to use the stock VAST system, EDIS settings must be used in TunerStudio.

Tried it last night, but I think my spark output scheme was set wrong, plus it started raining and my starter is old and sapping my battery too quick.

I'll post results as soon as I have good ones!

I'm also wondering what mods might be needed for ethanol (e85) use? Once I go turbo I can take advantage of the lower detonation potential of e85, but it would still be nice to run it now as a zombie-apocalypse backup scenario (lol). I believe I'm 9.2:1 comp ratio right now, will probably dish the heads a little for more turbo-friendly compression once I get to that stage of the build, but from what I've read 9.2:1 is still a little low for full e85 friendliness?

Mandy Tuning

ford/dodge ignition system more reliable than toyota ? if im crossing a desert i trust more on a points sytle distributor and a pice of sandpaper than any ford or dodge ignition system LOL . on my toyota i ran mitsubishi eclipse igniter and coils,they are inmortals and $25 on ebay for my spare igniter on the glove box. also 2 toyota pickup coils into the distributor so i can run sequential inj and waste spark or direct fire if i wish with out the fear of hurting the trigger wheel/ vrsensor with mud and rocks on the harmonic balancer. by the way im running haltech sprint 500.

Mr_Random

Would cranking voltage drop mess up MS settings? Even with a .1uf capacitor over h1 boot jumper, my rpm will measure stable for about six pulses then shoot to like 3krpm, push Dwell and the VE table way up, then crash back down... I start to get combustion but it seems like only one cylinder every once in a while. Watching the injector LED confirms injection pulses for about six cycles, then crash also. I'll find a timing light tomorrow and charge the battery over night, make sure I have full CCAmps and try it all again...

I still don't know if I need to use EDIS as the coil charging scheme, or standard coil charge... at this point neither yielded anything good, but that probably just highlights some other underlying problem.

Also,gennro, I believe you sent me msq for a turbo, didn't you say you had a non-turbo one? I'll stick to calculated tables for now, but do appreciate any other tuning help...

Mr_Random

As an update, got mine running! Using Gennro's tables, it wouldn't idle stable, so I adjusted them up within the 800-1100 range and got a reasonable idle. Then my electric fan died and the engine got to op temp, so tomorrow I'll be swapping in my spare fan and having a go at driveability tuning.

I think my higher base compression (9.2:1) accounts for the need for higher ve and afr... can't wait to do some driving!

Also, confirmed that the starter was drawing too much amperage to get stable readings to the computer, bought a new one and after chasing a dumb vac leak (forgot to re-attach brake booster), she fired right up!

Oh and MAP sensor needed re-calibration, but that's just because the "help" section in TS lists mpx4115 at the top, leading me to assume it was the right one... a quick google search resolved that; the mpx4250 was the correct one, second on the list in the "help" section.

Once I get a new job, I'll start gathering parts for turbo :-)

jmswltn

ive been running ms2 extra with mine since november.
edis is super easy to implement once you get your trigger wheel mounted. unfortunately im still only getting 14.5 mpg with 31s and 4wd..

I went through the motions of making power with a 22r, researched as much as i could find. I weighed all the options and it just comes down to this; the 22r is an outdated design. to make good power with it you need to spend quite a bit of money and you'll still probably be disappointed maxing out around 275 horse with reliability issues. not saying its not fun to modify and have something different just think about the long term cost of it all before diving into turbo, e85, compression dropping additions to your project.

i gave up on the 22r and am pursuing 1uz dreams. same money, bigger power gains, cooler sound

sorry to flog your goals i was just were you are at 9 month ago

Mr_Random

Healthy, skeptical feedback, is better than none!

But 14.5?! I never got that horrible of mileage even with carb, 33's, and a tired motor!

Also, it helps that the majority of my engine costs were absorbed by other people; nearly every part I am using is second-hand (although most were never used, or very low mileage), and even though I would have done most of the work myself, I haven't paid a cent for machine work.

I have changed plans mid-project twice now, but even with the new parts I've had to buy, I'd estimate I'm under $2.5k, without accounting for cost offset from selling an offy intake and ported 20r head. I have more parts to sell, too.

I'm expecting roughly twice stock hp output (180ish), but torque and reliability are what I really care about, and once I put arp head studs, with or without turbo, it'll have everything short of dual row timing chain (which engnbldr said is negligible, and puts more stress on rotating assembly in the end) done to it.

That being said, if I didn't get the deals I did, I would have stopped with a mild 20r/22r hybrid with a weber and offy intake, and started saving for 1uz, or 1fz, 2jz... who knows! I'm thinking down the road (10years?) I'll find a wrecked land cruiser or lx450 and swap/rebuild everything from it. Turbo 1fz's get ridiculous!

Mr_Random

Figured I'd update;

Megasquirt was completed and installed a while ago, but I ran too much timing and 3 of the KB pistons that were in the engine blew their ringlands (common failure), then due to offset loads, two of them had skirts crack, one of which wasn't the blown one, but it popped the spiral clip and forced the pin into the cylinder wall... as a testament to 22r engineering, it still drove the 3 or 4 miles home!

So, yet again the truck has been down for months... this time I just put stock DNJ pistons in, with their nice fat ring land area and deep skirts, a little bowl work on the head, and a too-custom-to-talk-about-outside-of-build-thread block arrangement, I should be around 8.6:1, and have a far more reliable setup.

It runs, but I pulled the rear end apart to replace bearings and such, so as soon as I have it tuned I'll get back on here for complete deet's. I'll be updating my build thread soon with lots of pics, also.