JunkFanatic

So I finally got everything put back together, filled it up with oil, and distilled water in the radiator, and fired it up. It took awhile (out of gas) but it finally coughed into action. It ran for a few minutes, but when it started blowing steam I shut it off. The steam is coming from behind the exhaust manifold, but there is no water that I can see, no wetness or drips. So I could just use any help thats out there, thanks a lot!

FrankTorres

If it idles good, run it...
You may have quite a bit of moisture in your exhaust and the steam might take a while to burn off.

Hope that helps.

JunkFanatic

Okay, thanks! I ran it a few more times, and the steaming has gone down quite a bit, so it probably is just burning some stuff off. But now I'm dealing with a really loud knocking sound, kind of makes the engine sound like a diesel, and an overheating problem which I think is just the fan clutch.

JunkFanatic

Well the steaming went away, but I still have the "overheating". Anyways, I got the cooling system burped and had the radiator filled, but the temp gauge just sits at 3/4-ish of the way up. At idle or while driving it'll stay right about 3/4 of the way up, maybe fluctuating just slightly up or down. So I took it to a mechanic, and they didn't see anything wrong, but told me to try a 180 degree thermostat. So I got the new tstat put in, and burped the system again just to make sure, but the temp gauge still holds at 3/4 of the way up. I have an infrared thermometer I used to check the thermostat hiusing, and it was tight at 180 degrees, but I'm not really sure if that means anything. I did replace the temp gauge sender a few months ago, but at this point I'm not really sure what to try next, or if there Eben is a problem. Oh, and also I did replace the fan clutch with a new aisin fan clutch, and although the mechanic said it's working fine, nit just still never seems to kick in.

FrankTorres

Your gauge must be off.

180* at the thermostat housing is a good temp.

Make sure your connection to your temp sender is intact and maybe think about installing a secondary digital or analytic temp gauge...

So what was the knocking?

JunkFanatic

Okay, well that's a relief! I'll take a look at the connection today. I was looking into the sunpro gauges, which looked good for the price, but it seems like they kind of get a bad reputation on the internet. Is there one that you would recommend? And with the knock, the mechanic said that it sounded like it was coming from the head area, and that he wouldn't worry about it. He also said that his friend has the same engine and makes the same noise, so hopefully it's nothing, but I'm still gonna keep an eye on it.

coyote jim

Use your infrared sensor on the left, right and center of your radiator to check for differences in temp. Your radiator might be partially plugged and is not cooling efficiently. This will cause your engine to run too hot especially during idle on hot days. This can be common after a blown head gasket or worn through timing chain cover.

Gizler00

iTrader: (1)

As everyone else stated, check the radiator, get a good working gauge,and check the sensors and wiring to that circuit.

As far as a knock.... Im not so sure that I would just not worry about it. The 22r/re have a distinct sewing machine sound when the valves are adjusted properly. I have had knocking sounds in the past from these engines and it was usually attributed to spark knock in the cylinders and or some piston slap from a worn out engine.

Have you done a compression test yet. Dry and wet? That can give you a good idea on the condition of the cylinders, and narrow the noise down to the head.