Double Cardan U-Joint Size
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Double Cardan U-Joint Size
So I was going to replace the u-joints on the front driveshaft Double Cardan joint today. Apparently, the original u-joints are slightly (20 thousandths give or take) smaller than the replacement u-joints. Does anyone have a workaround or the correct part numbers for replacement u-joints made specifically for the double cardan on an 84/85 front driveshaft?
Thanks...
Thanks...
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Local Parts Store... I actually went to 4 different stores today and measured them with a mic and none would fit. I measured 8 different ones. The guy at O'Reilly let me go back and try and match them up. Still no luck after breaking open the boxes on 40 plus u-joints.
The front joint works fine, while the two in the cardan are the issue. The actual holes in the yoke for the cardan are smaller than the holes in the yoke for the front joint.
Two dealers (parts counter) told me a few weeks ago that the part was not serviceable and I would have to buy a whole driveshaft. The tech at one of the the dealers told me that they were all the same size and what I would get at the local stores would work... Hmmmmmm... Someone missed the mark somewhere. I saw where several others have run into the same issue with the joints on the cardan and some have chosen to grind down the cups to fit the yoke holes or drill out the yokes so the new joints will fit. The dealer told them the same thing about the cardan joints being unserviceable.
I was just curious if anyone else had a more solid solution here. I may take mine over to a friend and have him drill the yokes to accommodate the new u-joints. This way, if the joints ever failed again, all I would have to do is go out and grab one that should pop right in.
The fun part of all this was watching the guy at the local parts store try to explain how to make this joint fit. "If you just keep pounding it with a hammer..." He just couldn't figure out why in the world I would insist on getting my money back for u-joints that were "pretty close" to the original size..."
Thanks
The front joint works fine, while the two in the cardan are the issue. The actual holes in the yoke for the cardan are smaller than the holes in the yoke for the front joint.
Two dealers (parts counter) told me a few weeks ago that the part was not serviceable and I would have to buy a whole driveshaft. The tech at one of the the dealers told me that they were all the same size and what I would get at the local stores would work... Hmmmmmm... Someone missed the mark somewhere. I saw where several others have run into the same issue with the joints on the cardan and some have chosen to grind down the cups to fit the yoke holes or drill out the yokes so the new joints will fit. The dealer told them the same thing about the cardan joints being unserviceable.
I was just curious if anyone else had a more solid solution here. I may take mine over to a friend and have him drill the yokes to accommodate the new u-joints. This way, if the joints ever failed again, all I would have to do is go out and grab one that should pop right in.
The fun part of all this was watching the guy at the local parts store try to explain how to make this joint fit. "If you just keep pounding it with a hammer..." He just couldn't figure out why in the world I would insist on getting my money back for u-joints that were "pretty close" to the original size..."
Thanks
Last edited by acicomp; 02-26-2011 at 03:01 PM.
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Thr managet at Auto Zone just called me and told me he had ordered two in that were specifically for the center and rear joint which should be the double cardan. Part number was 1-5800DL. I'll let you know by tomorrow afternoon if it fits.
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Well, I am back up and running after the crazy u-joint issues. Thankfully, the ball and needle bearings were in excellent condition, so the u-joints were all replaced and the vibration that started all this has now disappeared. Here is some info for those needing to know that may be searching this same topic later.
The part number for the u-joints in the double cardan are:
(Same part, just cross referenced the part numbers.)
Precision #513
Neapco #1-5800
Auto Zone #1-5800DL
Rockford #407-10
Spicer #5-2532X
The Ball Repair Kit (.470 ball) is:
(Same part, just cross referenced the part numbers.)
Precision #613
Spicer #211407X
Rockford #407-0
The standard u-joint for the front joint (Differential end of the u-joint) is pretty common and stocked at most parts stores. You may have to order the two needed for the double-cardan (CV Style), but they are available. The dealer will tell you that you have to buy a complete shaft, but you don't. The repair parts are readily available, just not from the dealer as OEM parts.
If you're ball is in good shape and the rubber seals are good and you only need to replace the u-joints, be real careful when you pull the assembly apart so you don't lose any of the needle bearings out of the center ball. If they fall out, make sure you put them back in. We used a little grease with a wire nut inserted to hold them in place while we were moving the shaft around to keep the bearings in place.
Hope this helps someone in the future.
The part number for the u-joints in the double cardan are:
(Same part, just cross referenced the part numbers.)
Precision #513
Neapco #1-5800
Auto Zone #1-5800DL
Rockford #407-10
Spicer #5-2532X
The Ball Repair Kit (.470 ball) is:
(Same part, just cross referenced the part numbers.)
Precision #613
Spicer #211407X
Rockford #407-0
The standard u-joint for the front joint (Differential end of the u-joint) is pretty common and stocked at most parts stores. You may have to order the two needed for the double-cardan (CV Style), but they are available. The dealer will tell you that you have to buy a complete shaft, but you don't. The repair parts are readily available, just not from the dealer as OEM parts.
If you're ball is in good shape and the rubber seals are good and you only need to replace the u-joints, be real careful when you pull the assembly apart so you don't lose any of the needle bearings out of the center ball. If they fall out, make sure you put them back in. We used a little grease with a wire nut inserted to hold them in place while we were moving the shaft around to keep the bearings in place.
Hope this helps someone in the future.
Last edited by acicomp; 02-28-2011 at 02:35 PM. Reason: Changed Wording
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Not sure on that one. I was thinking that the joint was there to help with the angle, but can't say for sure. I know it is stock on the front shaft like that. The 84/85 shafts are also called high flex shafts. I'm sure someone with more knowledge might chime in with more on this.
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After searching on the wen real quick, I found a good writeup on the shafts and CV (Double Cardan) It does limit the angle, however, reduces vibration.
Here is the article on driveline basics from 4x4wire.com
Hope this helps some.
Here is the article on driveline basics from 4x4wire.com
Hope this helps some.
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Opening up an old thread(sorry). My 81 calls for Precision #513s and they're maybie a thousandth off. Any opinions on honing out the yoke a little to accomodate the joints? This sucks.
#20
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geezz , I have no idea why they wouldnt fit , unless they were possably packaged wrong ? I have done quite a few of these shafts over the years and never run into that
http://rockforddriveline.com/ has new cages if ya cant find a good used one #486
.
http://rockforddriveline.com/ has new cages if ya cant find a good used one #486
.
Last edited by slacker; 02-18-2012 at 08:51 AM.