Doing the SR-5 Gauge Cluster Swap... HOW TO with pictures. - Page 5

Nughuffer · 03-10-2008, 04:25 PM

Anyone know the "mod" to get the tach from a 6 cyl cluster to work w/a 22re?

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deserthound · 03-21-2008, 12:48 PM

There are differences between the SR5 dash on a manual trans vs. auto trans vehicle. These are the changes I had to do to get a manual SR5 cluster to work in my DLX Auto 4runner dash. Both vehicles were 22RE, '86 models, mine a 4runner, donor a pickup.

The wire connectors come out of the socket easily using a small eyeglass type screwdriver to compress the lock tab.

Connector A
-----------
Bring in wire from coil neg terminal for tach
Cut wire on pin 6 and attach wire from coil to pin 6 stub
Tape end of cut-off wire from Pin 6
Remove Pin 5 connector and tape it. Not reused.
Move wire from pin 4 to pin 5
Move wire from pin 3 to pin 4
Move wire from pin 2 to pin 3
Move wire from pin 1 to pin 2

Connector B
-----------
No changes

Connector C
-----------
Move wire from pin 5 to pin 4
Move wire from pin 6 to pin 5

Put bulb and socket in cluster at AT Oil Temp location
On SR5 cluster follow A-2 to solder pad. Solder jumper across to pad
that goes to AT Oil Temp light location. About 3/4" between pads

Plug everything in and all should work except you won't have the ECT lights in the dash any longer.

Don't forget to change the oil sending unit before firing up the engine the 1st time after the swap or at least unplug the old one.

85 PICKUP · 03-27-2008, 04:55 AM

I purchased an SR5 cluster for my 85 for $50 locally with 138k (my truck has only 101k, but oh well) I had to hard wire the tach and it seems to work okay. The issues I'm having are:

The oil pressure gauge doesnt work at all, I think I fried it when I initially installed the cluster as I did not disconnect the sender.

The temp gauge will work intermittately (sp). The last time it quit I decided on repairing it with my fist and it worked again. I hard wired that gauge too, didnt make a difference. If it continues to cause me problems its new home will be in my garbage can!

Sounds like a gauge issue?

Instrument cluster swap is a little overrated, looks good but definately not plug n play. Maybe I bought a lemon????

Wardamneagle · 03-27-2008, 07:39 AM

Mine was plug and play; but I did change the oil pressure sender at the same time. You have definitely fried the oil pressure gauge. It seems that the trucks are less plug and play than the 4Runners.

Trustyrusty · 03-31-2008, 07:58 AM

My stock cluster has 164XXX.. the one I put in has 230XXX how can I roll the SR5 cluster's odometer back? I tried putting my odometer into the SR5 cluster, but I can't get my speedometer needle off on the stock cluster, I ended up breaking the needle off when I used vice grips to pull it off...

2manyyotas · 04-10-2008, 11:16 PM

What years came with the 85 miles per hour and 110mph?Also the grid pattern and witout?
So it the tbelt light hole is open its a 4cyl?Is there a better way to tell?

WHO KNOW THESE CLUSTERS?

mickeykreg · 09-17-2008, 05:06 PM

I just did this swap on my 85 4Runner and thought I'd add to some of whats been discussed about making the odometer reflect actual mileage. I began to take the speedo apart like Jeffires describes and I realized that I wouldn't be able to make the SR5 tripmeter work with my original odometer because the white (non SR5) housing doesn't have the worm gear that drives the tripmeter. I tore the speedo down this far:

I used the white housing from the SR5 cluster (thats the nonSR5 white housing in the pic). I used my original odometer, and the rest of the parts are all from the SR5 donor.

This all probably sounds confusing but it's really a pretty simple swap. Just tear into it, carefully because theres lots of fragile stuff in there, and it'll make sense as you go. I found it pretty satisfying too.

wrxnefx06 · 09-18-2008, 07:48 AM

scribed

83 · 09-18-2008, 09:14 AM

I just put in an SR5 cluster last night (delivered from Dirtoyboy, THANK YOU). No plug & play for my tach, unfortunately, but after reading this it makes sense, since I've got a carb. Hopefully the tach wire setup works the same in my '83 as on your trucks, I'm going to try it tonight or tomorrow.

I'm wondering if anyone knows...since the 79-83 SR5 clusters didn't have the oil or volt readings in the actual cluster (they were in a separate cluster down by the shift lever), and I only got the one cluster...do I need the SR5 oil sending unit? There's still an idiot light on the cluster, but I don't have the little seperate cluster with the gauge, so probably it doesn't matter? Either SR5 or non SR5 sending unit would work it?

XtraSlow_XtraCab · 09-18-2008, 10:22 AM

I would have to assume you're correct. Since you don't have the volts/oil press. cluster down at the floor, there's no oil gauge to plug into. And since there's no oil gauge to plug into, there's no oil gauge to ruin!

BTW, visit your local parts dismantler. Those volts/oil pressure gauge clusters are a dime a dozen. Unless that's just California luck, in which case I'd be happy to fetch you one and ship it... at your expense

83 · 09-18-2008, 11:35 AM

Hmm...We have no 1st Gen Pickups at any salvage yards around here. I did mention it to Dirtoyboy in my giant parts list I sent him, but I mentioned not being as concerned about that part as the other parts. Not sure if he didn't have one or just assumed I must not care enough to want it. Anyway, I'm not against paying to have one shipped if it's pretty cheap to begin with and you're actually serious! I'm definitely only interested in OEM ones for these vehicles specifically.

toyospearo · 09-18-2008, 12:10 PM

thats a great write up!!! I am going to do that. You made that straightforward enough for a dumbass like me to figure that out!!
awesome job!

83 · 09-18-2008, 01:35 PM

Now I've noticed: temp gauge isn't working. 4wd indicator is not working. charge light is always on. when I put it in 4wd the charge light dims a bit? Weird. I'd like for the 4wd light to work, but I must have the temp gauge working. I guess I'll pull it & make sure all the connections and bulbs are good.

83 · 09-19-2008, 07:21 AM

Anybody have advice for my cluster? The gas gauge was working fine, and the charge light was on. Then yesterday, no charge light, gas gauge went to half, and when I turned the headlights on there were NO lights on in the cluster at all. Completely dark. Today gas gauge is working again, charge light is on, but turns off if I turn on the headlights. Temp gauge still doesn't work. Short? How do I find what's up? My old cluster worked fine. Maybe I should make sure it still does to narrow things down.

ozziesironmanoffroad · 09-19-2008, 07:49 AM

lucky soab my oil pressure gauge doesnt work. i even replaced the oil pressure sending unit with the right one, and it just went up and now stays at the very top. yours looks awesome

ozziesironmanoffroad · 09-19-2008, 07:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Trustyrusty

My stock cluster has 164XXX.. the one I put in has 230XXX how can I roll the SR5 cluster's odometer back? I tried putting my odometer into the SR5 cluster, but I can't get my speedometer needle off on the stock cluster, I ended up breaking the needle off when I used vice grips to pull it off...

disconnect the end of the speedo cable from the tranny, take a powerdrill, open it (as if you're going to put a bit in there) and close it around the speedo cable. (the part that spins.) spin it either forward or backward. im only saying to do that in case yours is wrong, like mine is. i like having my info correct, so ill be setting mine from 155,000 to 270,000.

Tool Pants · 09-21-2008, 02:25 PM

I answered Trustyrusty here with some pictures. http://www.yotatech.com/f116/sr5-cluster-150980/

The drill runs forward to remove miles, and reverse to add. I remember this because I ended up using a drill press to rollback 4,000 miles because it was taking so long and my drill press only runs forward.

It took a very, very long time to take off just 4,000 miles at the highest speed setting, 3,000 rpms.

To advance the odometer 120,000 you are going to have a drill running at full speed for a year. Better off to open it up and move the dials.

matts65ss · 10-05-2008, 06:55 PM

alright guys i have two questions..
i have an 85 runner 22re 5speed..

i just got a sr5 cluster from a 85 2wd pickup 4cyl

now.. my new cluster is an 85 miles per hour and my stock cluster is a 110mph cluster does this matter..

and the less important question will it have a 4wd light

thanks
matt

89needsatranny · 11-20-2008, 07:14 PM

ughh...i probably over looked this but why do you have to change the oil pressure sending unit? whats wrong with old one?

85TurboRunner · 11-20-2008, 11:44 PM

Since this thread got brought up again it made me wanna stick my sr5 cluster in that I've had for a while. I tried it out once before and pretty much nothing worked. I just held it up to the light and I see (timing belt) as one of the trouble lights. So does this mean this cluster was from a V6 truck?

Tool Pants · 11-21-2008, 12:18 AM

I have a 22R and my SR5 cluster came from a 4Runner. It has a t-belt idiot lght. I also thought this meant it came from a V6. Guess not because the tach works fine.

85TurboRunner · 11-21-2008, 12:31 AM

Guess I'll have to try it out again then.

83 · 11-21-2008, 09:25 AM

The reason to switch out the sending unit is because...and forgive me but I'm going to throw out terms that may be a bit wrong but the basic idea is right, so...anyway the reason is that the idiot light sending unit is different volts or amps or some such thing and is not meant to run an actual gauge, and apparently it will fry your gauge if you plug it in. The SR5 sending unit is meant to be used with a gauge and will send the correct volts amps whatever and so it won't fry it. If you're going to do the swap before you can afford to swap out the unit or you're lazy, just unplug the sending unit at the engine block end, and wait until you replace the sending unit to plug it in and have a fully functioning cluster. I would want, especially on an older truck, to have that oil gauge working, though.

4Crawler · 11-21-2008, 09:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 83

The reason to switch out the sending unit is because...and forgive me but I'm going to throw out terms that may be a bit wrong but the basic idea is right, so...anyway the reason is that the idiot light sending unit is different volts or amps or some such thing and is not meant to run an actual gauge, and apparently it will fry your gauge if you plug it in. The SR5 sending unit is meant to be used with a gauge and will send the correct volts amps whatever and so it won't fry it. If you're going to do the swap before you can afford to swap out the unit or you're lazy, just unplug the sending unit at the engine block end, and wait until you replace the sending unit to plug it in and have a fully functioning cluster. I would want, especially on an older truck, to have that oil gauge working, though.

More correctly, the sender for the warning light is just a switch, so it closes when the oil pressure is too low and opens when the pressure is high enough. When closed the light turns on. For the gauge, you need a sender that has a variable resistance that changes with oil pressure. The way the gauge works is that it puts a known voltage across the resistance of the sender and that combination produces a current that varies with the oil pressure. The gauge needle moves up and down as that current increases and decreases.

The reason the warning light sender won't work is that when the switch is open (infinite resistance) you get 0 amps flowing and no reading on the gauge. The real problem though comes when you have low pressure (like when first starting the engine) and the switch is closed (0 resistance). By ohms law, V=I*R (volts = amps times resistance), or I = V/R. If R=0, I = really big and gauge goes boom!

Asha'man · 11-21-2008, 10:07 AM

The idiot light sender is essentially a digital output and the gauge sender is an analog output.

03-21-2008, 12:48 PM	#102 (permalink)
deserthound Registered User Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: SW New Mexico Posts: 96	SR5 Manual to Auto swap There are differences between the SR5 dash on a manual trans vs. auto trans vehicle. These are the changes I had to do to get a manual SR5 cluster to work in my DLX Auto 4runner dash. Both vehicles were 22RE, '86 models, mine a 4runner, donor a pickup. The wire connectors come out of the socket easily using a small eyeglass type screwdriver to compress the lock tab. Connector A ----------- Bring in wire from coil neg terminal for tach Cut wire on pin 6 and attach wire from coil to pin 6 stub Tape end of cut-off wire from Pin 6 Remove Pin 5 connector and tape it. Not reused. Move wire from pin 4 to pin 5 Move wire from pin 3 to pin 4 Move wire from pin 2 to pin 3 Move wire from pin 1 to pin 2 Connector B ----------- No changes Connector C ----------- Move wire from pin 5 to pin 4 Move wire from pin 6 to pin 5 Put bulb and socket in cluster at AT Oil Temp location On SR5 cluster follow A-2 to solder pad. Solder jumper across to pad that goes to AT Oil Temp light location. About 3/4" between pads Plug everything in and all should work except you won't have the ECT lights in the dash any longer. Don't forget to change the oil sending unit before firing up the engine the 1st time after the swap or at least unplug the old one. __________________ Dick 1986 4Runner 22RE Auto DLX DD 1988 Extended cab pickup 4x4, 22RE, 5 Speed

03-27-2008, 07:39 AM	#104 (permalink)
Wardamneagle Registered User Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: UK and Gulf Shores, AL Posts: 322	Mine was plug and play; but I did change the oil pressure sender at the same time. You have definitely fried the oil pressure gauge. It seems that the trucks are less plug and play than the 4Runners. __________________ 1985 4Runner 1997 FZJ 80 2007 HDJ100 - DD Last edited by Wardamneagle; 03-27-2008 at 07:40 AM.

03-31-2008, 07:58 AM	#105 (permalink)
Trustyrusty Registered User Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: (Rednecks Inbreed In) Kansas Posts: 1,349	My stock cluster has 164XXX.. the one I put in has 230XXX how can I roll the SR5 cluster's odometer back? I tried putting my odometer into the SR5 cluster, but I can't get my speedometer needle off on the stock cluster, I ended up breaking the needle off when I used vice grips to pull it off... __________________ 1995.5 Tacoma 4X4 3.4-Jardine Catback, 20% Tint, Cold Air Intake, Skid Plates etc... 1987 Toyota 4Runner 1986 Toyota 4X4-SOLD

09-17-2008, 05:06 PM	#107 (permalink)
mickeykreg Registered User Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: ogden, utah Posts: 21	I just did this swap on my 85 4Runner and thought I'd add to some of whats been discussed about making the odometer reflect actual mileage. I began to take the speedo apart like Jeffires describes and I realized that I wouldn't be able to make the SR5 tripmeter work with my original odometer because the white (non SR5) housing doesn't have the worm gear that drives the tripmeter. I tore the speedo down this far: I used the white housing from the SR5 cluster (thats the nonSR5 white housing in the pic). I used my original odometer, and the rest of the parts are all from the SR5 donor. This all probably sounds confusing but it's really a pretty simple swap. Just tear into it, carefully because theres lots of fragile stuff in there, and it'll make sense as you go. I found it pretty satisfying too. __________________ 85 4runner 33x9.50x15 BFG A/Ts, 2" OME Springs front and rear, downey shackles, V6 calipers/master/booster/FJ rotors http://mickeykreg.blogspot.com/

09-18-2008, 09:14 AM	#109 (permalink)
83 Registered User Join Date: May 2008 Location: Montana Posts: 1,694	I just put in an SR5 cluster last night (delivered from Dirtoyboy, THANK YOU). No plug & play for my tach, unfortunately, but after reading this it makes sense, since I've got a carb. Hopefully the tach wire setup works the same in my '83 as on your trucks, I'm going to try it tonight or tomorrow. I'm wondering if anyone knows...since the 79-83 SR5 clusters didn't have the oil or volt readings in the actual cluster (they were in a separate cluster down by the shift lever), and I only got the one cluster...do I need the SR5 oil sending unit? There's still an idiot light on the cluster, but I don't have the little seperate cluster with the gauge, so probably it doesn't matter? Either SR5 or non SR5 sending unit would work it? __________________ Zach '83 Shortbed 4x4 L52HD Rebuilt & Mostly Stock

03-27-2008, 04:55 AM	#103 (permalink)
85 PICKUP Registered User Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Gresham, Oregon Posts: 36	I purchased an SR5 cluster for my 85 for $50 locally with 138k (my truck has only 101k, but oh well) I had to hard wire the tach and it seems to work okay. The issues I'm having are: The oil pressure gauge doesnt work at all, I think I fried it when I initially installed the cluster as I did not disconnect the sender. The temp gauge will work intermittately (sp). The last time it quit I decided on repairing it with my fist and it worked again. I hard wired that gauge too, didnt make a difference. If it continues to cause me problems its new home will be in my garbage can! Sounds like a gauge issue? Instrument cluster swap is a little overrated, looks good but definately not plug n play. Maybe I bought a lemon????

04-10-2008, 11:16 PM	#106 (permalink)
2manyyotas Registered User Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: east indiana Posts: 23	What years came with the 85 miles per hour and 110mph?Also the grid pattern and witout? So it the tbelt light hole is open its a 4cyl?Is there a better way to tell? WHO KNOW THESE CLUSTERS?

09-18-2008, 07:48 AM	#108 (permalink)
wrxnefx06 Registered User Join Date: Mar 2007 Posts: 27	scribed

09-18-2008, 10:22 AM	#110 (permalink)
XtraSlow_XtraCab Registered User Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: California Posts: 467	I would have to assume you're correct. Since you don't have the volts/oil press. cluster down at the floor, there's no oil gauge to plug into. And since there's no oil gauge to plug into, there's no oil gauge to ruin! BTW, visit your local parts dismantler. Those volts/oil pressure gauge clusters are a dime a dozen. Unless that's just California luck, in which case I'd be happy to fetch you one and ship it... at your expense __________________ Download your Factory Service manual HERE! <I>I just finished BUILDING my own 4Runner because I'm too cheap to buy one... go ahead and call me crazy!</I> 1984 Toyota XtraCab 4x4 turned 4Runner in just ONE month.

09-18-2008, 11:35 AM	#111 (permalink)
83 Registered User Join Date: May 2008 Location: Montana Posts: 1,694	Hmm...We have no 1st Gen Pickups at any salvage yards around here. I did mention it to Dirtoyboy in my giant parts list I sent him, but I mentioned not being as concerned about that part as the other parts. Not sure if he didn't have one or just assumed I must not care enough to want it. Anyway, I'm not against paying to have one shipped if it's pretty cheap to begin with and you're actually serious! I'm definitely only interested in OEM ones for these vehicles specifically. __________________ Zach '83 Shortbed 4x4 L52HD Rebuilt & Mostly Stock

09-18-2008, 12:10 PM	#112 (permalink)
toyospearo Registered User Join Date: May 2008 Location: way way nor cal Posts: 1,589	thats a great write up!!! I am going to do that. You made that straightforward enough for a dumbass like me to figure that out!! awesome job! __________________ 94 Ext. cab 22re Aussied, 4.88's, SAS,ed, FLATBED, Old Man Emu rear leafs w/TG 5.5" shackles, TG sliders, LC Header, Marlin super HD clutch, 32's- Swamper TSL's- RC rims, Badland Bumper, lifted, lighted, LED'ed, Warned, alternatored (LC High ouput), Hammed, gusseted, trussed, etc, etc... My build thread http://www.yotatech.com/f152/great-w...ck-sas-164531/ My Flatbed build thread http://www.yotatech.com/f88/toyospea...-build-191787/

09-18-2008, 01:35 PM	#113 (permalink)
83 Registered User Join Date: May 2008 Location: Montana Posts: 1,694	Now I've noticed: temp gauge isn't working. 4wd indicator is not working. charge light is always on. when I put it in 4wd the charge light dims a bit? Weird. I'd like for the 4wd light to work, but I must have the temp gauge working. I guess I'll pull it & make sure all the connections and bulbs are good. __________________ Zach '83 Shortbed 4x4 L52HD Rebuilt & Mostly Stock

09-19-2008, 07:21 AM	#114 (permalink)
83 Registered User Join Date: May 2008 Location: Montana Posts: 1,694	Anybody have advice for my cluster? The gas gauge was working fine, and the charge light was on. Then yesterday, no charge light, gas gauge went to half, and when I turned the headlights on there were NO lights on in the cluster at all. Completely dark. Today gas gauge is working again, charge light is on, but turns off if I turn on the headlights. Temp gauge still doesn't work. Short? How do I find what's up? My old cluster worked fine. Maybe I should make sure it still does to narrow things down. __________________ Zach '83 Shortbed 4x4 L52HD Rebuilt & Mostly Stock

09-19-2008, 07:49 AM	#115 (permalink)
ozziesironmanoffroad Registered User Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: Spring Valley, CA Posts: 5,678	lucky soab my oil pressure gauge doesnt work. i even replaced the oil pressure sending unit with the right one, and it just went up and now stays at the very top. yours looks awesome __________________ The 22r series engines are made from the fires of hell, and will fight tooth and nail to not be sent back. 1988 Toyota P/U 4x4 22re, 1200 miles on the rebuild engine builder .268 cam pioneer CD deck 31x10.50x15 BFG A/T BAJA 100W lights on prerunner bumper KC Daylighters 100W rancho rs5000 MUD IS A VALID PAINT JOB! If not living life to the fullest, why live it? my trucks official buildup thread

09-21-2008, 02:25 PM	#117 (permalink)
Tool Pants Registered User Join Date: Dec 2006 Posts: 139	I answered Trustyrusty here with some pictures. http://www.yotatech.com/f116/sr5-cluster-150980/ The drill runs forward to remove miles, and reverse to add. I remember this because I ended up using a drill press to rollback 4,000 miles because it was taking so long and my drill press only runs forward. It took a very, very long time to take off just 4,000 miles at the highest speed setting, 3,000 rpms. To advance the odometer 120,000 you are going to have a drill running at full speed for a year. Better off to open it up and move the dials.

10-05-2008, 06:55 PM	#118 (permalink)
matts65ss Registered User Join Date: Aug 2008 Posts: 18	alright guys i have two questions.. i have an 85 runner 22re 5speed.. i just got a sr5 cluster from a 85 2wd pickup 4cyl now.. my new cluster is an 85 miles per hour and my stock cluster is a 110mph cluster does this matter.. and the less important question will it have a 4wd light thanks matt

11-20-2008, 11:44 PM	#120 (permalink)
85TurboRunner Registered User Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: Vancouver WA Posts: 1,067	Since this thread got brought up again it made me wanna stick my sr5 cluster in that I've had for a while. I tried it out once before and pretty much nothing worked. I just held it up to the light and I see (timing belt) as one of the trouble lights. So does this mean this cluster was from a V6 truck? __________________ 1985 4runner 22re 5spd.

11-21-2008, 12:18 AM	#121 (permalink)
Tool Pants Registered User Join Date: Dec 2006 Posts: 139	I have a 22R and my SR5 cluster came from a 4Runner. It has a t-belt idiot lght. I also thought this meant it came from a V6. Guess not because the tach works fine.

11-21-2008, 12:31 AM	#122 (permalink)
85TurboRunner Registered User Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: Vancouver WA Posts: 1,067	Guess I'll have to try it out again then. __________________ 1985 4runner 22re 5spd.

11-21-2008, 09:25 AM	#123 (permalink)
83 Registered User Join Date: May 2008 Location: Montana Posts: 1,694	The reason to switch out the sending unit is because...and forgive me but I'm going to throw out terms that may be a bit wrong but the basic idea is right, so...anyway the reason is that the idiot light sending unit is different volts or amps or some such thing and is not meant to run an actual gauge, and apparently it will fry your gauge if you plug it in. The SR5 sending unit is meant to be used with a gauge and will send the correct volts amps whatever and so it won't fry it. If you're going to do the swap before you can afford to swap out the unit or you're lazy, just unplug the sending unit at the engine block end, and wait until you replace the sending unit to plug it in and have a fully functioning cluster. I would want, especially on an older truck, to have that oil gauge working, though. __________________ Zach '83 Shortbed 4x4 L52HD Rebuilt & Mostly Stock

11-21-2008, 10:07 AM	#125 (permalink)
Asha'man Registered User Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Centennial, CO Posts: 871	The idiot light sender is essentially a digital output and the gauge sender is an analog output. __________________ --Brian Truck - 1986 4Runner SR5 - 22RE, 5spd, 265K, 3" OME/BJ spacer lift, 31x10.50 TrXus MT's, satin black AR steelies, homemade bikini top Car - 1995 Lexus SC400, red/black, 220K, coilovers, exhaust Pickup - 1985 Toyota Xtra cab pickup - 2wd, 22R, 5spd, 270K miles, 4Runner buckets, currently two colors

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