Doing the SR-5 Gauge Cluster Swap... HOW TO with pictures. - Page 3

castrolSi · 01-25-2006, 08:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by L33T35T 4Runner

Great thread, this sould be made in to a review, but needs picture links to be updated

if only i could find an SR5 cluster

Dang... I figured this thread was long dead. I just started deleting some of the photos off of my server yesterday. It was getting too clustered.

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L33T35T 4Runner · 01-25-2006, 11:05 AM

well im glad to see some are back up

Jeffires · 01-31-2006, 11:05 PM

Don't delete them yet...I have just ordered a different cluster

**DeathCougar** · 02-02-2006, 11:38 PM

Well, since this thread has been re-born, i have some questions.

I have an 86 4Runner produced April 1986. My coil/ignitor assmbly has 3 green plugs coming off of it. One with 3 short wires that runs across the engine to the engine harness, one with 2 short wires that disappears into the body harness by the coil, and the third with two long wires that runs to the distributor. Can I swap in the SR5 cluster without adding any wires, and only changing the oil sending unit?

I have heard conflicting reports about a split in 86 or 87 with swapability, and i'd just like to clear it up once and for all. I do have access to a 4cyl 5spd SR5 Cluster btw, so I dont have to worry about V6 or automatic differences either.

**DeathCougar** · 02-04-2006, 11:04 AM

buuuuuuuuuuump

Hellbent · 02-14-2006, 12:28 AM

I just did this swap this week end. I changed the oil sending unit but the gauge still does not work and neither does the tach. any suggestions?

Jeffires · 02-14-2006, 12:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hellbent

I just did this swap this week end. I changed the oil sending unit but the gauge still does not work and neither does the tach. any suggestions?

Are you sure the oil sender works? I think there is a thread that tells how to independently test the sender and the gauge.

PirateFins · 02-14-2006, 06:25 AM

MODS: Why is this in the 95.5+ section? Can it be moved?

Nice Job on the write up and tech. I have wanted to do this for a long time but never got around to it. Now I'm not sure about "adding" to my truck as it might not be mine for long.

Oil Gauge and sending unit test procedure 93 FSM on pages 9 and 10 It also has the test procedures for the rest of the guages and senders. Still should work for the older units.

rudestar · 02-14-2006, 08:20 AM

Someone posted they used Teflon sealing tape on the oil pressure sender. That can cause low oil pressure readings as sender needs to ground to block.
Mileage changes are easy if you have strong hands. The ten and hundred thousand wheels are easy to force to any reading. Do the ten first then the hundred. Your looking for trouble rolling the thousand wheel.
Only hard part of this swap is the unhooking the speedometer cable. Unclip the Speedometer at the firewall ( engine side ) and push in an inch of slack.

**DeathCougar** · 02-14-2006, 08:35 PM

I just did this swap. Everything works but the Oil pressure. BOught a brand new gauge (in the cluster) from toyota ($96!) and it still doesn't work. And yes, I did swap in a gauge-style sensor. I did use one from a 1991 4runner V6 engine tho...so i wonder if those things read differently????

Jeffires · 02-17-2006, 05:44 PM

I just swapped in an SR5 cluster to my '91 truck. I am very particular about my truck, and wanted to keep the odometer setting accurate. Thanks to everyone who has posted information in these threads; there were definitely a few questions answered here. Sorry for the shoddy photography and lack of draw ins- I was in a hurry.

Here's my contribution concerning moving an odometer to a diff. cluster:

Preparing the SR5 cluster to install:
The clear sheild and black surrounds are removed:

The clear shield and black gauge surrounds removed for cleaning: The clear part snaps off of the surrounds, but I noticed it seemed to be held on with adhesive. I super glued it back on in a few spots.

I will now remove the odometer from my cluster, and install it into the SR5 cluster. The first step is removing the speedometer needle- this has been covered in other writeup, so I'll just say that I used the procedures from the writeup. The only additional info I have is this: notice exactly where the speedometer needle sits on the "0" before pulling it. When you replace it, the weight of the needle pulls itself down appx. 1/8". Set it about 1/8" higher and *lightly* press it on. Let it fall and see if you got it right. Once you insert the needle on the spindle, and it falls down to where it was before you removed it, carefully press it on.

Next, remove the two screws on the speedometer faceplate. Carefully remove the speedometer faceplate. Flip the cluster over and remove two gold screws that are diagonal to the speedo cable plug. Remove two silver screws to the right of the speedo cable plug. The odometer is now free:

This is the only difference in the odometer in an SR5 cluster and a standard cluster. There two plastic supports are included on the standard odometer to screw down the speedometer faceplate to. They are located on either side of the speedometer spring mechanism. To put a standard odometer into an SR5 speedometer, you must remove these two plastic supports. The SR5 assembly will not reqire them. I caught them with pliers and yanked them straight off.

My odometer installed in the SR5 cluster, using the same hardware. Press the speedometer needle back on after you replace all the screws.

The dash was dirty as hell, I cleaned it a little bit. Notice the Autometer Tach (with shift light) that has been there for about 8 years, since I put it on in high school.

The SR5 instrument cluster going into my truck:

This is the location of the oil pressure switch next to the oil filter. I will replace it with an oil sending unit. I already have my replacement part, but I will wait until I cange the oil next week.

The finished product- everything works perfectly except the oil pressure gauge that I did not have time to get to today. Speedometer checked with GPS- perfect; tachometer works, other gauges work. All warning lights were tested and came on.

I have been waiting to do this swap for a long time. The only thing I actually liked about my old cluster more was the larger fuel gauge.

Jeffires · 03-07-2006, 03:17 PM

Today I just swapped the oil pressure switch for an oil sending unit so my oil pressure gauge will work. This process is simplified on the 3.0 by removing the oil filter. As already posted in other writeups, I used a 1 1/16 socket to remove the oil pressure switch that came with the standard cluster. To install the new oil sending unit, I used some blue RTV sealant (because I heard teflon *might* cause grounding problems) and a 15mm wrench. With these tools, the switch is not hard.

darth brian · 03-14-2006, 11:52 PM

my donor truck was fuel injected and im carburated. both 4 cylinder. so i replace the oil pressure sending unit. is that all? do i just plug it in and will everthing work? if i have to run new wires which wires go where? thanks.

ohio · 09-05-2006, 03:32 PM

So I just did this swap. Was super easy mechanically... but now I have no turn signals. I click the turn stalk and there's no dash indicators or actual blinkers. Any ideas?

Also, I expected all the idiot lights to turn on momentarily at start-up, but they don't. Is this blown bulbs or is this normal? Brake light bulb isn't blown, but doesn't light on start-up.

ohio · 09-05-2006, 10:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ohio

So I just did this swap. Was super easy mechanically... but now I have no turn signals. I click the turn stalk and there's no dash indicators or actual blinkers. Any ideas?

Also, I expected all the idiot lights to turn on momentarily at start-up, but they don't. Is this blown bulbs or is this normal? Brake light bulb isn't blown, but doesn't light on start-up.

Turn signals magically started working after I tested the hazards. No idea why, but now you know if you have the same problem...

toyaholic · 09-05-2006, 10:35 PM

just did mine and i concur, super easy. of course there is one problem for me as well. my temp guage shoots strait to the middle as soon as the key is turned on first start of the day or any time for that matter. time to troubleshoot.

toyaholic · 09-05-2006, 10:37 PM

oh yeah, this thread is in the wrong section still. ????

Tool Pants · 12-29-2006, 06:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by castrolSi

Oh, by the way, I didn't realize that this was a v6 truck the cluster
came from until I took it apart. If you look at the top of the speedo, you will
see the number 18. If you look at the top of the tach, you will see the number
19. It is a little smaller than the speedo one. Just to the right of that 19 are
red letters that say 6cyl. Its hard to see in the photo, but its there.

Anyone know the redline on the 22RE?

I just bought an ebay cluster. I have a 1988 22R with carb, 5 speed. The seller said the donor cluster is from a 1988 4Runner, 4 cylinder. Befor I play around with it is there a way to tell for sure if the donor cluster is from a 4 cylinder?

Looks pretty.

Numbers on the top. No clue what they mean.

Looks like the cluster is made by Yazaki.

On the back there is a 6 with a line under it. I hope this does not mean 6 cylinder.

Wrecking yard yellow paint. On ebay the seller said 1988 but this has 1987 written on it. The VIN starts with JT4RN. I think the R in the VIN means it is a 4 cylinder, and if it is a 6 cylinder the R would be a V. But if this is true I do not know if I can trust the writing.

Cover off.

I have a 10 above the tach, not a 19. I do not see 6 cyl next to the 10 - there is nothing next to the 10.

Tool Pants · 12-29-2006, 06:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by castrolSi

Oh, by the way, I didn't realize that this was a v6 truck the cluster
came from until I took it apart. If you look at the top of the speedo, you will
see the number 18. If you look at the top of the tach, you will see the number
19. It is a little smaller than the speedo one. Just to the right of that 19 are
red letters that say 6cyl. Its hard to see in the photo, but its there.

I have put a yellow arrow to where I think castrolSi says there are red letters that say 6cyl. My donor cluster has nothing in that location.

Tool Pants · 12-29-2006, 07:11 PM

I put the SR5 ebay cluster in for a test run.

Tool Pants · 12-30-2006, 08:47 PM

Another test run.

I hooked up the tach wire and put in the sender.

Since I'm talking to myself, sure looks like the donor cluster is from a 4 cylinder..

Tool Pants · 12-31-2006, 11:33 PM

The ebay cluster has 4K more miles. I was going to just leave it alone. I did not want to play around with the odometer wheels. So off to the drill press. I think it is going to take a long time.

I did not have the socket for the old sender, so I used a pipe wrench.

The sender I used is a Niehoff OP76021.

The connector for the sender is designed so that it can plug in straight on the original sender, or sideways on the new sender. I was not able to screw the sender in all the way. In fact I'm not sure the old sender was in all the way. But since it is a tapered pipe thread it does not matter. 2 days of driving and no leaks.

Tool Pants · 12-31-2006, 11:50 PM

My original question was how to tell if the ebay cluster was 4 or 6 cylinders.

I pulled all the bulbs and shined a light from behind to see what idiot lights it had. There were T-Belt and Filter icons but there were no bulbs, and I could tell that there had never been bulbs for these 2 icons. I assume these 2 warning lights are used on the V6.

Elton · 01-01-2007, 12:43 AM

t-belt means its from a v6 it looks like its working fine wouldint worry about it to much

Tool Pants · 01-03-2007, 07:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 983141

just did mine and i concur, super easy. of course there is one problem for me as well. my temp guage shoots strait to the middle as soon as the key is turned on first start of the day or any time for that matter. time to troubleshoot.

For anyone who is still looking at this thread.....

I have been driving for a few days. My water temp gauge acts like what I would call a bit strange.

This is a few seconds after I start a cold engine in the morning on my driveway. The rpms are up because the choke is on and the engine is cold. Fast idle. The temp gauge is almost in the middle in a stone cold engine.

I drove for 7 minutes. Stopped at a traffic light, took this picture, and the gauge had moved down to where I would have expected it to be when I started it on the driveway. The rpms are down a bit because the engine has warmed up for 7 minutes.

Then I got on the freeway and drove to work for about 30 minutes. The gauge started moving up and looked like the first picture when the cold start picture was taken, when I arrived at work.

I have never seen a water temp gauge jump up on a cold engine, then down on a warm engine, then move up in a normal fashion as the engine warms up.

Is this way this gauge is supposed to act?

01-25-2006, 11:05 AM	#52 (permalink)
L33T35T 4Runner Contributing Member Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Fountain Valley, CA (so cali) Posts: 2,005	well im glad to see some are back up __________________ 95 4Runner SR5 3.0l. V6 2 wheel drive baby! 31" Bridgeston Dueler A/T Revos. Downey 1.5 Coils. Doetsch MV-12 Shocks. Brembo Rotors. Performance Friction Pads. Pioneer head unit with 1 12" Pioneer woofer. XM Radio. RB Headlight Harness w/ Sylvania SilverStars New to the family: 85 4Runner 22RE, 4x4, 5 spd, SFA. 31" BFG All Terrain T/A KOs, genuine Walmart seat covers, "Dual" stereo, XM Radio, RB Headlight Harness w/ Sylvania SilverStars. Onboard air. Has been seafoamed to hell

01-31-2006, 11:05 PM	#53 (permalink)
Jeffires Registered User Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: New Orleans, Louisiana Posts: 682	Don't delete them yet...I have just ordered a different cluster __________________ -Jeff- '91 4WD P/U 3VZE A340H , 197K K&N air ] Optima ] Flex-a-Lite fan ] FloPro exhaust ] ISR Mod ] Warn M8000 ] Powertrax lockers ] Swaybar Discos ] KC Lighting ] Premier MP3 - Pioneer highs/mids - RF DVC 12/ RF 360a² ] Garmin GPSMap60C Photo Album MySpace La Nouvelle-Orléans 'da Ragin Cajun

02-14-2006, 12:28 AM	#56 (permalink)
Hellbent Registered User Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Roseville, CA Posts: 30	I just did this swap this week end. I changed the oil sending unit but the gauge still does not work and neither does the tach. any suggestions? __________________ rolled 99 tacoma 86 toyota truck

02-17-2006, 05:44 PM	#61 (permalink)
Jeffires Registered User Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: New Orleans, Louisiana Posts: 682	Swapping odometers: how to I just swapped in an SR5 cluster to my '91 truck. I am very particular about my truck, and wanted to keep the odometer setting accurate. Thanks to everyone who has posted information in these threads; there were definitely a few questions answered here. Sorry for the shoddy photography and lack of draw ins- I was in a hurry. Here's my contribution concerning moving an odometer to a diff. cluster: Preparing the SR5 cluster to install: The clear sheild and black surrounds are removed: The clear shield and black gauge surrounds removed for cleaning: The clear part snaps off of the surrounds, but I noticed it seemed to be held on with adhesive. I super glued it back on in a few spots. I will now remove the odometer from my cluster, and install it into the SR5 cluster. The first step is removing the speedometer needle- this has been covered in other writeup, so I'll just say that I used the procedures from the writeup. The only additional info I have is this: notice exactly where the speedometer needle sits on the "0" before pulling it. When you replace it, the weight of the needle pulls itself down appx. 1/8". Set it about 1/8" higher and lightly press it on. Let it fall and see if you got it right. Once you insert the needle on the spindle, and it falls down to where it was before you removed it, carefully press it on. Next, remove the two screws on the speedometer faceplate. Carefully remove the speedometer faceplate. Flip the cluster over and remove two gold screws that are diagonal to the speedo cable plug. Remove two silver screws to the right of the speedo cable plug. The odometer is now free: This is the only difference in the odometer in an SR5 cluster and a standard cluster. There two plastic supports are included on the standard odometer to screw down the speedometer faceplate to. They are located on either side of the speedometer spring mechanism. To put a standard odometer into an SR5 speedometer, you must remove these two plastic supports. The SR5 assembly will not reqire them. I caught them with pliers and yanked them straight off. My odometer installed in the SR5 cluster, using the same hardware. Press the speedometer needle back on after you replace all the screws. The dash was dirty as hell, I cleaned it a little bit. Notice the Autometer Tach (with shift light) that has been there for about 8 years, since I put it on in high school. The SR5 instrument cluster going into my truck: This is the location of the oil pressure switch next to the oil filter. I will replace it with an oil sending unit. I already have my replacement part, but I will wait until I cange the oil next week. The finished product- everything works perfectly except the oil pressure gauge that I did not have time to get to today. Speedometer checked with GPS- perfect; tachometer works, other gauges work. All warning lights were tested and came on. I have been waiting to do this swap for a long time. The only thing I actually liked about my old cluster more was the larger fuel gauge. __________________ -Jeff- '91 4WD P/U 3VZE A340H , 197K K&N air ] Optima ] Flex-a-Lite fan ] FloPro exhaust ] ISR Mod ] Warn M8000 ] Powertrax lockers ] Swaybar Discos ] KC Lighting ] Premier MP3 - Pioneer highs/mids - RF DVC 12/ RF 360a² ] Garmin GPSMap60C Photo Album MySpace La Nouvelle-Orléans 'da Ragin Cajun

03-07-2006, 03:17 PM	#62 (permalink)
Jeffires Registered User Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: New Orleans, Louisiana Posts: 682	Today I just swapped the oil pressure switch for an oil sending unit so my oil pressure gauge will work. This process is simplified on the 3.0 by removing the oil filter. As already posted in other writeups, I used a 1 1/16 socket to remove the oil pressure switch that came with the standard cluster. To install the new oil sending unit, I used some blue RTV sealant (because I heard teflon might cause grounding problems) and a 15mm wrench. With these tools, the switch is not hard. __________________ -Jeff- '91 4WD P/U 3VZE A340H , 197K K&N air ] Optima ] Flex-a-Lite fan ] FloPro exhaust ] ISR Mod ] Warn M8000 ] Powertrax lockers ] Swaybar Discos ] KC Lighting ] Premier MP3 - Pioneer highs/mids - RF DVC 12/ RF 360a² ] Garmin GPSMap60C Photo Album MySpace La Nouvelle-Orléans 'da Ragin Cajun

02-14-2006, 08:20 AM	#59 (permalink)
rudestar Registered User Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Massatuchits / Cape Cod Posts: 57	Someone posted they used Teflon sealing tape on the oil pressure sender. That can cause low oil pressure readings as sender needs to ground to block. Mileage changes are easy if you have strong hands. The ten and hundred thousand wheels are easy to force to any reading. Do the ten first then the hundred. Your looking for trouble rolling the thousand wheel. Only hard part of this swap is the unhooking the speedometer cable. Unclip the Speedometer at the firewall ( engine side ) and push in an inch of slack.

03-14-2006, 11:52 PM	#63 (permalink)
darth brian Registered User Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Chino Hills, CA Posts: 296	my donor truck was fuel injected and im carburated. both 4 cylinder. so i replace the oil pressure sending unit. is that all? do i just plug it in and will everthing work? if i have to run new wires which wires go where? thanks. __________________ rest in pieces Flying Dutchman!

09-05-2006, 03:32 PM	#64 (permalink)
ohio Registered User Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: san francisco, CA Posts: 151	So I just did this swap. Was super easy mechanically... but now I have no turn signals. I click the turn stalk and there's no dash indicators or actual blinkers. Any ideas? Also, I expected all the idiot lights to turn on momentarily at start-up, but they don't. Is this blown bulbs or is this normal? Brake light bulb isn't blown, but doesn't light on start-up.

09-05-2006, 10:35 PM	#66 (permalink)
toyaholic Registered User Join Date: May 2005 Location: memphis, but los angeles temporarily Posts: 257	just did mine and i concur, super easy. of course there is one problem for me as well. my temp guage shoots strait to the middle as soon as the key is turned on first start of the day or any time for that matter. time to troubleshoot. __________________ -89 deluxe 4runner 22re/A340H -85 extended cab 4x4 with 22r/G52 -89 corolla 4af

09-05-2006, 10:37 PM	#67 (permalink)
toyaholic Registered User Join Date: May 2005 Location: memphis, but los angeles temporarily Posts: 257	oh yeah, this thread is in the wrong section still. ???? __________________ -89 deluxe 4runner 22re/A340H -85 extended cab 4x4 with 22r/G52 -89 corolla 4af

12-29-2006, 07:11 PM	#70 (permalink)
Tool Pants Registered User Join Date: Dec 2006 Posts: 139	I put the SR5 ebay cluster in for a test run.

12-30-2006, 08:47 PM	#71 (permalink)
Tool Pants Registered User Join Date: Dec 2006 Posts: 139	Another test run. I hooked up the tach wire and put in the sender. Since I'm talking to myself, sure looks like the donor cluster is from a 4 cylinder..

12-31-2006, 11:33 PM	#72 (permalink)
Tool Pants Registered User Join Date: Dec 2006 Posts: 139	The ebay cluster has 4K more miles. I was going to just leave it alone. I did not want to play around with the odometer wheels. So off to the drill press. I think it is going to take a long time. I did not have the socket for the old sender, so I used a pipe wrench. The sender I used is a Niehoff OP76021. The connector for the sender is designed so that it can plug in straight on the original sender, or sideways on the new sender. I was not able to screw the sender in all the way. In fact I'm not sure the old sender was in all the way. But since it is a tapered pipe thread it does not matter. 2 days of driving and no leaks.

12-31-2006, 11:50 PM	#73 (permalink)
Tool Pants Registered User Join Date: Dec 2006 Posts: 139	My original question was how to tell if the ebay cluster was 4 or 6 cylinders. I pulled all the bulbs and shined a light from behind to see what idiot lights it had. There were T-Belt and Filter icons but there were no bulbs, and I could tell that there had never been bulbs for these 2 icons. I assume these 2 warning lights are used on the V6.

01-01-2007, 12:43 AM	#74 (permalink)
Elton Contributing Member Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Siletz,Oregon Posts: 10,657	t-belt means its from a v6 it looks like its working fine wouldint worry about it to much __________________ My Truck 98 4runner SR5 3.4L 5spd 4x4 E-Locker Mods Mom 07 Tundra d-cab limited 5.7L 4x4 auto sister 92 pickup SR5 X-cab 3.0L 5spd 4x4 Papa 89 Pickup SR5 X-cab 4x4 3.0L 5spd/98 4runner SR5 4x4 auto 3.4L R.I.P 91 4runner SR5 4x4 3.0L 5spd Totaled 5/13/06 My Wreck

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