84-85 Trucks & 4Runners 2nd gen pickups and 1st gen 4Runners with solid front axles

Do simple step-by-step instructions exist for NON mechanics on how to rebuild a 22R?

Old 12-22-2012, 05:26 PM
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Exclamation Do simple step-by-step instructions exist for NON mechanics on how to rebuild a 22R?

A couple questions please...

1) Do simple instructions exist for how to rebuild a 22R motor? I'm looking for super easy to understand step-by-step instructions with major hand holding geared towards the NON mechanic that has never rebuilt an engine before.

2) And do simple instructions exist for how to convert a 1984 22R into a 22RE?

Any information will be greatly appreciated!

Thank you.

Steve

EDIT: I just removed the words "brain dead" from my post.

Last edited by magentawave; 12-24-2012 at 04:49 PM.
Old 12-22-2012, 05:41 PM
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Yes and No

Building an engine is something that is only as hard as you make it. Meaning that it depends on your mechanical ability and your ability to plan a project. I used Superbleeder's build thread when I did my motor this summer. I backward planned the project and made sure that I had all the things I needed before getting started. As for the conversion of 22r to 22re I would say the simplest thing would be to find a 22re engine to build. I would get one with a wire harness and the intake in place. I believe that the head is the same on both engines because I know there are several people on here that have converted 22re engines to 22r just by changing the intake. I know the 22r came with a mechanical fuel pump and the 22re has an electric fuel pump. I personally pulled my engine labled everything and put parts in bags with their fasteners then I took the block and head to a machine shop and had them rebuild it. I took it home put the intake back on, waterpump, flywheel, and clutch along with all the other accessories and valve cover. I also deleted EGR and most of my vaccuum lines. It took me 30 minutes or so to get it hooked back up to the tranny with the help of a friend. It was not too bad. I think it took me two days to re-assemble everything and drop it in. Not too bad at all.
Old 12-23-2012, 12:55 PM
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Brain dead people need to pay a mechanic else their motor ends up dead too.

:wabbit2:
Old 12-23-2012, 02:22 PM
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Originally Posted by waskillywabbit
Brain dead people need to pay a mechanic else their motor ends up dead too.

:wabbit2:
There's 3 things you don't mess with lest you know what you're doing:

Driveline (engine/trans/differentials)
Suspension
Brakes

Pay someone if you need that level of instruction.
Old 12-23-2012, 03:49 PM
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Red face

Wow you should see the inspection licensed mechanics .

On a good day I need to make sure there air gun is set in the correct direction. After being told my never seized lug nuts were rusted fast.

It all depends it is one thing to not be a mechanic it is quite another to be so mechanically Inclined you pick things up rather quick.

Then there is the total opposite .

Most fall in the middle so if this a project and can sit when things get to be to much go for it . If your working under a deadline having to get things done it gets real uncomfortable.

we all for the most learned some how if not from older mentors or friends.

These things are not that hard once you understand the basics .

I have found the Factory Service Manuals very good for rebuilding engines and transmissions.
Old 12-23-2012, 05:07 PM
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a haynes manual is pretty simple to understand, that's what i used to learn how to rebuild my 3vze engine, i'm also pretty mechanically inclined, but it's pretty simple to read and understand
Old 12-23-2012, 05:37 PM
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I think I did pretty OK.

have 3 threads in my sig....1 original, one simplified rebuild (thread B) and my son's 4runner.

aaaaaand, I had no experience.
Old 12-23-2012, 09:37 PM
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I rebuilt my 22RE last summer. My first rebuild ever. I set no deadlines and made sure to take my time using shop manuals and the internet as my guides. Quite a bit of mechanical experience, but nothing like an engine rebuild.

Rebuilding an engine is no simple task. No matter how much hand-holding you get from any source, there *will* be hang ups you have to deal with that no book can easily answer. I suppose that's why this site is so valuable...lots of knowledge. Also, keep in mind you'll need lots of specialized tools that, if you purchase, you will rarely ever use again.

That said, if you're willing to just go for it, it's a great project. The 22RE is a great engine to learn on- robust and simple. Take your time- not a project you want to be rushing through. And you have to be okay knowing you just might make a mistake somewhere along the way...I definitely had a couple of those "learning experiences."

I have no clue about EFI conversions.
Old 12-24-2012, 12:24 PM
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I worked in the construction industry for many years as a custom cabinetmaker and finish carpenter and I've replaced parts on my vehicles and done tuneups. My point is that I am "handy" with tools but have never done anything as extensive as rebuilding an engine (I had a head surfaced and replaced a head gasket before though).

So based on the replies I got to this thread, can I assume no one knows of a single online source with step by step instructions on how to do this?

Thanks for your input.

Steve
Old 12-24-2012, 12:42 PM
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I think folks have given you some good advice.
The cliff notes read:

Factory Service Manual. FSM. Yes.

Haynes or Chiltons Manual. Yes.

Step by step instructions for the "braindead". No.

:wabbit2:
Old 12-24-2012, 01:31 PM
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Talking

The reason being almost every engine rebuild is different.

So there can be no step by step guide for every possible problem that one might find.

Then one gets into the whole machine work issue .

Does the head need new valves ?? Do I want to go with oversize valves???? Do I want the stiffer valve springs ??Is the head cracked ?? Do I need a new Head?? Do I need or want a better cam?? Can I do the Port and Polish of the head myself??

I am sure that may give you just a slight idea
Old 12-24-2012, 02:41 PM
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There's 3 things you don't mess with lest you know what you're doing:

Driveline (engine/trans/differentials)
Suspension
Brakes

Pay someone if you need that level of instruction.
__________________
Dont think its a good idea to do ANYTHING unless you know what your doing. Even changing a tire wrong can lead to an accident.
Old 12-24-2012, 02:52 PM
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give the guy some motivation, i do understand that if you really want something super simple then dont try it at all because that in itself explains that your not up to the task and your afraid of doing it. But if you really have the time and feel comfortable doing it just do it, but expect no brain dead manual on how to rebuild that engine.

On the side note my first engine rebuild I did was on a 92 toyota PU with a 22re it was a simple engine to rebuild and back then there wasnt so much internet help as there is now. You also got the helpfull people here and the thousands of threads of problems people came accross. For me the problem I got when i rebuilt mine was me and my stepdad didnt set the timing correctly (noob mistake) so it didnt start. Once we got our neighbor who had a race car hobby come look at it he told us the timing was off and we set it up right and fired on the first try.

If you decide to try it out then good luck to you and I hope it turns out good and you have a good learning experience if not then still a good thing.
Old 12-24-2012, 04:04 PM
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You can do it just say you can and do it.

Please look at SuperBleeders build. Tons of photos, tons of info, and lots of good advice. I had never pulled a motor by myself either. I had to go for it or I would not have my Toyota. When I took my block to the machine shop they had a block already built for a cirlce track car. I swapped my block out and had them build my head. Other than that I did everything else. I would reccomend the FSM out of all the manuals I looked at. The most confusing thing is the vaccuum lines, but if you label yours and take a few pictures you should have no problem at all. I am very happy with my truck now. It runs great. If you can install a lift kit or rebuild a solid axle you should be able to pull a 22re. Both the lift and the axle have a lot of parts and a lot of pieces. Take your time and do it the right way. Ask questions and expect to sometimes get told things you do not want to hear. Also if you ever think something might not be right go ahead an make it right before it gets expensive. You can do this all the rest of us on this thread have. I cannot think that we are just extra special and great mechanics with knowledge above your level of comprehesion. I would reccomend the list below before you get started. These are the things I used most. Sorry if this is too long winded but I want to help you.



  1. Engine Crane or hoist with load leveler.
  2. Zip lock bags 1 box quart size 1 box pint size (for parts and fastners, always put the fasteners with their parts).
  3. 2 black sharpie markers.
  4. White electrical tape and Yellow electrical tape (this is how we make our labels).
  5. At least one bright shop light.
  6. Flashlight.
  7. Telescopic magnet.
  8. Some type of spray lube I used CRC Breakfree.
  9. Antiseeze (for the exhaust studs)
  10. Large bottle of blue loctite and a tube of red locktite (for the flywheel bolts)
  11. New belts 2 or 3 if you have AC, and radiator hoses and Hose clamps.
  12. At least 3 meters of vacuum hose
  13. 10 quarts of oil, 2 filters and a bottle of Cam break in additive.
  14. 4 gallons of coolant 4 gallons of distilled water.
  15. One set of deep well metric sockets.
  16. One set of standard metric sockets.
  17. One set of metric wrenches.
  18. One very good torque wrench, not a cheap one from Harbor Freight, rent one if you have to.
  19. One multi-function screwdriver with the ability to be used as a nut driver.
  20. Enough studs to replace all the studs and bolts holding your header or exhaust manifold.
  21. Channel Lock and Needle Nose pliers (They just seem to do things that nothing else will, you will know when to use them)
  22. This is a nicety but not a must, I have a Dewalt 20volt impact gun made life very easy when I was taking everything apart.
  23. I reccomend replacing the clutch if you have not already.
  24. New fly wheel and pressure plate bolts.

Last edited by Stu Pidasso; 12-24-2012 at 04:25 PM. Reason: Needed to add information
Old 12-24-2012, 04:54 PM
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I just removed the words "brain dead" from my first post as I really only meant "simple" as in "do this" and "now do this" was more appropriate to the instructions I'm looking for...and ALL geared towards the individual that has never done this before.

Haynes and Chilton manuals are okay for some stuff but I'm hoping to find something with more hand holding.


Originally Posted by waskillywabbit
I think folks have given you some good advice.
The cliff notes read:

Factory Service Manual. FSM. Yes.

Haynes or Chiltons Manual. Yes.

Step by step instructions for the "braindead". No.

:wabbit2:
Old 12-24-2012, 04:59 PM
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I really appreciate you taking the time to post all of this! Thank you.


Originally Posted by Stu Pidasso
Please look at SuperBleeders build. Tons of photos, tons of info, and lots of good advice. I had never pulled a motor by myself either. I had to go for it or I would not have my Toyota. When I took my block to the machine shop they had a block already built for a cirlce track car. I swapped my block out and had them build my head. Other than that I did everything else. I would reccomend the FSM out of all the manuals I looked at. The most confusing thing is the vaccuum lines, but if you label yours and take a few pictures you should have no problem at all. I am very happy with my truck now. It runs great. If you can install a lift kit or rebuild a solid axle you should be able to pull a 22re. Both the lift and the axle have a lot of parts and a lot of pieces. Take your time and do it the right way. Ask questions and expect to sometimes get told things you do not want to hear. Also if you ever think something might not be right go ahead an make it right before it gets expensive. You can do this all the rest of us on this thread have. I cannot think that we are just extra special and great mechanics with knowledge above your level of comprehesion. I would reccomend the list below before you get started. These are the things I used most. Sorry if this is too long winded but I want to help you.



  1. Engine Crane or hoist with load leveler.
  2. Zip lock bags 1 box quart size 1 box pint size (for parts and fastners, always put the fasteners with their parts).
  3. 2 black sharpie markers.
  4. White electrical tape and Yellow electrical tape (this is how we make our labels).
  5. At least one bright shop light.
  6. Flashlight.
  7. Telescopic magnet.
  8. Some type of spray lube I used CRC Breakfree.
  9. Antiseeze (for the exhaust studs)
  10. Large bottle of blue loctite and a tube of red locktite (for the flywheel bolts)
  11. New belts 2 or 3 if you have AC, and radiator hoses and Hose clamps.
  12. At least 3 meters of vacuum hose
  13. 10 quarts of oil, 2 filters and a bottle of Cam break in additive.
  14. 4 gallons of coolant 4 gallons of distilled water.
  15. One set of deep well metric sockets.
  16. One set of standard metric sockets.
  17. One set of metric wrenches.
  18. One very good torque wrench, not a cheap one from Harbor Freight, rent one if you have to.
  19. One multi-function screwdriver with the ability to be used as a nut driver.
  20. Enough studs to replace all the studs and bolts holding your header or exhaust manifold.
  21. Channel Lock and Needle Nose pliers (They just seem to do things that nothing else will, you will know when to use them)
  22. This is a nicety but not a must, I have a Dewalt 20volt impact gun made life very easy when I was taking everything apart.
  23. I reccomend replacing the clutch if you have not already.
  24. New fly wheel and pressure plate bolts.
Old 12-24-2012, 05:09 PM
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Is this the post by iamsuperbleeder" that a couple of you recommended I follow? https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...ctures-181237/ He is rebuilding a 22RE but the engine that comes with this motorhome I might buy is a 22R (although I might convert it to a 22RE).

1) If I decide to keep it a 22R, would his thread still be worthwhile for me to go over?

2) Do you think its worthwhile to have a 22RE over a 22R? Is the fuel injection more reliable than the old carb? How much better MPG should I expect to get with fuel injection? (BTW: I plan on traveling extensively through Mexico and Central America.)

Thanks again.

Steve
Old 12-24-2012, 05:26 PM
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Does anyone know if this guys "How to rebuild a 22R motor" DVD and manual is any good? http://www.ebay.com/itm/370717285508...witem=&vxp=mtr
Old 12-24-2012, 05:29 PM
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The 22re is guaranteed about 15 more horsepower right out of the box in stock form. The 22re has less vaccuum stuff and once you get it right it is highly dependable. The trick for you will be getting the complete wiring harness for the fuel injection. You will also need the guage cluster/instrument panel. Now if you stick with the carbed version, which you totally can and have a great truck; I reccommend you grabbing a Weber Carbuerator for it. The Weber Carb with a 20r head on a 22r block is a very popular mod. The reason why so many people go with the 22re of the R is that the Carbed trucks do not like being leaned at akward angles. These type sittuations present themselves often in offroading. With you driving a motorhome I highly doubt you will trying to crawl any boulders. Bleeder's thread is still good because you can see the technique of his breakdown. Even though he and I run the same engine we both encountered our own unique circumstance. There is threads with the 20r/22r hybrid engines all over the place. Doing this setup is not any different than using a regular 22r head as far as assembly goes. The differences are in the size of the combustion chambers. Just look at what he did and get a feel for what you are about to do. The first step is to remove the hood, just a hint. Then remove the battery, then drain the oil, then drain the radiator and remove it. Then dive in head first.

Last edited by Stu Pidasso; 12-24-2012 at 05:30 PM.
Old 12-26-2012, 09:43 AM
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Thanks. I will go through his thread in the next day or so.

What is the performance and MPG difference between driving a 22R with a Weber carb and a 22R with the stock factory carb?

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