hiluxhack

The carb must be completely ( or almost ) disassembled before soaking helps. Then you must blow it out with compressed air. I think once jap carbs go bad, it's time for a weber. I'm just sayin

insadj05

Ok guys, sorry this is soo long. Between life and wife this job is going on forever. Wiped off timing marks and assume I found timing mark on pulley. Cold the engine starts and idles. Let it run for 5 minutes and the valve cover is very warm? No sign of the timing mark on the pulley (I didn't mark it with white or yellow to see it either) pulled the vacuum lines to dist. and it wouldn't run long enough to do anything with.
Float window has gas a little past half way. There is a tooth looking piece of metal on the top and bottom of the float window and I'd say the gas is at the bottom of that tooth looking piece. Hopefully in the next couple of days I can pull the radiator and front off the engine and look at the timing mark compared to the keyway on the balance and see what that looks like. The inside of the dist looks good and everything seems to be moving ok. Just wondering if that gas is too high in the float window. The very warm valve cover is kinda weird isn't it?
Thanks again for your help.

insadj05

Finally got a helper to start the truck and hit the starter so I could check timing marks. Got it at tdc and dist is right on. Still won't run long enough to set timing and won't run at all with the vacuum lines pulled and plugged. So my helper gave it a little gas and it started while i played with the timing. It still backfired through the carb. Looked down after about 2 minutes and the header was bright red. I would say that the carb is dumping fuel?

insadj05

OK all. Finally getting time to look at this thing. Have photos if you need also.
Still backfiring on acceleration. barely idling. So I pulled the plugs and set timing at TDC. pulled dist cap and rotor is pointing to #1 plug. Pulled valve cover and timing mark is at the top of sprocket. Pulled balancer bolt and the keyway is inline with the timing mark at the top of the pulley. Checked clearance on valves. Going to check compression.

on the new carb. the site glass is over 1/2 way in the glass its about 1/8 of an inch higher. Carb company said this is because it's idling?! Told me to unhook the three top vacuum lines. Having trouble uploading any photos or movies so you can see the marks and hear the engine run.

insadj05

Compression test. Because the truck hasn't been running this test is done with a worn (not dead) battery and cold engine. Not sure how much difference that makes. #1 125, #2 125, #3 130, #4 125. Chilton manual says 171, like I said not new battery and cold engine. Not sure if that will make a difference or not. Does anyone have a clue.

insadj05

Hopefully someone can give a hand here. Timing is still good as far as I can tell. Timing mark is lined up with keyway on balancer pulley. Rotor is lined up with #1. Top sprocket on timing chain is right at pointer on block at top of engine. I did find my signal pickup on the dizzy was off a little so I adjusted it. I thought maybe the exhaust or cat was plugged so I unbolted the exhaust at the cat today and got it started and idling. Sprayed carb cleaner around the base of the carb and it ran better for a while then started running bad like it was sucking the cleaner in. Is this vacuum leak or the carb base gaskets? I replaced them with the carb. I have never heard of using any kind of sealer for carb because of the gasoline. Any other way to seal or just replace gaskets again. Or is it vacuum lines? Seems that it idle was up around the carb. Then it seemed like it was only at the front of the carb.
Thanks in advance for your help!