22RE very high idle
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22RE very high idle
Ok, I replaced my engine with a 22reperformance engine and it had been running great...until one day I was driving it and it just stalled on me and I couldn't get it restarted. So I pulled off into a parking lot and started looking. Well, I noticed that my throttle body had fallen off my intake! So i bolted that back up and disconnected/reconnected the battery and was up and running again. Ran great for a couple days. Then, driving home from work yesterday I got on it a little bit, it was a Friday, and then when I was pulling into my neighborhood it began stumbling and dying again. So I thought it would be the throttle body again but it's tight.
So, I decided to re-adjust the TPS since I hadn't done that since replacing the motor. Took off the throttle body, adjusted the tps according to 4crawler, and put it all back together - still barely starts and runs extremely rough then dies. So I had my stock airbox and AFM and put that back in. Still running super rough and now it idles at like 2500rpm!
I'm at a loss and super frustrated. All my vacuum lines are new, new cooling lines, new everything and I can't figure this out. New injectors, fuel pump..... Also, when the key is in the run position and the engine is off it sounds like a vacuum leak under the hood! I don't recall ever hearing this but I don't think i've ever been under the hood with the key in the run position.
ANY advice would be appreciated....
Thanks, Christian
So, I decided to re-adjust the TPS since I hadn't done that since replacing the motor. Took off the throttle body, adjusted the tps according to 4crawler, and put it all back together - still barely starts and runs extremely rough then dies. So I had my stock airbox and AFM and put that back in. Still running super rough and now it idles at like 2500rpm!
I'm at a loss and super frustrated. All my vacuum lines are new, new cooling lines, new everything and I can't figure this out. New injectors, fuel pump..... Also, when the key is in the run position and the engine is off it sounds like a vacuum leak under the hood! I don't recall ever hearing this but I don't think i've ever been under the hood with the key in the run position.
ANY advice would be appreciated....
Thanks, Christian
#2
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Whoa, that's terrible to hear. Definitely call 22re performance and let them know the trouble you're having. They are good dudes and I imagine they fully stand behind their work. Also did you or a shop install it?
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I installed it myself. It has been running great for about 1000 miles. My fuel pressure gauge is reading 20 psi with the engine running so that maybe part of the problem? The fuel pump is new though. I guess it could be the regulator? How do I check that?
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I have seen the the bracket get loose and need to be fastened back down correctly like you mentioned earlier. Also look on the Throttle Body and where the Throttle Body comes back down to rest, it sits on the Dash Pot. It is a plunger like thing that can hold the throttle open some. I have seen them go bad and not go back down far enough to let the idle down as it should.
#5
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I have seen the the bracket get loose and need to be fastened back down correctly like you mentioned earlier. Also look on the Throttle Body and where the Throttle Body comes back down to rest, it sits on the Dash Pot. It is a plunger like thing that can hold the throttle open some. I have seen them go bad and not go back down far enough to let the idle down as it should.
Another thing to check that can cause high idle is the air valve (IACV). If you have the older style, it's under the intake manifold, with 2 small coolant hoses and 2 large air hoses up to the TB. I opened mine up and it was real dirty. Test it's heat coil with an ohm meter (39-59ohms). Open it up, clean it, seal back up with a little FIPG. Adjust its spring with a 7mm wrench if needed, should be less than half opened at room temp.
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Throttle linkage has all been gone through as I have a throttle body spacer and new throttle cable so that should be good.
Just readjusted the tps and dashpot according to 4crawler so that should be set. Going to call 22reperformance today and see what they have to say.
I checked the voltage at the fuel pump and its 12.3 so it's good. I still have a hiss when the key is in the run position and engine off. I felt around and it seems like it might be the fuel pressure regulator. As I was looking at it I guess I never hooked my vacuum line back to the regulator when I put the engine back in! Could that have damaged my injectors or anything? Fuel pressure was always in the 40s on my gauge so i don't know.
Thanks for the replies so far!!!
Just readjusted the tps and dashpot according to 4crawler so that should be set. Going to call 22reperformance today and see what they have to say.
I checked the voltage at the fuel pump and its 12.3 so it's good. I still have a hiss when the key is in the run position and engine off. I felt around and it seems like it might be the fuel pressure regulator. As I was looking at it I guess I never hooked my vacuum line back to the regulator when I put the engine back in! Could that have damaged my injectors or anything? Fuel pressure was always in the 40s on my gauge so i don't know.
Thanks for the replies so far!!!
This is good info. Also, if you have the earlier style intake and throttle body, you probably have it's overly-complex throttle cable linkage. Detach the cable and snap-on connector rod to check for binding at both springs. Clean it up while you're there. I had up to 1500rpm idle sometimes, especially after long drives. Another thing to check that can cause high idle is the air valve (IACV). If you have the older style, it's under the intake manifold, with 2 small coolant hoses and 2 large air hoses up to the TB. I opened mine up and it was real dirty. Test it's heat coil with an ohm meter (39-59ohms). Open it up, clean it, seal back up with a little FIPG. Adjust its spring with a 7mm wrench if needed, should be less than half opened at room temp.
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Leaving the Pressure Regulator vac line wont damage your injectors.
Here is a good test for the IACV
Here is a good test for the IACV
A small victory on the 4Runner today. Received the IACV that I traded some parts for.
First order of business, I wire brushed it and used a scotchbrite pad to clean it up a bit. Then I checked the resistance of the coil. The FSM says 39 to 59 Ohms, this replacement one measured around 51.
Then I thought I would check it's operation before installing it, so I threw it into the freezer for a couple of hours. Took it out and saw the air passage was opened up more:
Next I let it warm up and checked that the air passage closed up. The FSM says it should be slightly open at 68 deg. It was a tad warmer than that here today, passage looks slightly open:
Pulled my old one, swapped this one in. Immediately noticed that my truck now has a cold idle, it has NEVER had one before, so I'm thrilled. Took a look at my old one and noticed it was closed all the way, all the time. I believe the little tab that moves the cam is broken. Glad I changed it.
First order of business, I wire brushed it and used a scotchbrite pad to clean it up a bit. Then I checked the resistance of the coil. The FSM says 39 to 59 Ohms, this replacement one measured around 51.
Then I thought I would check it's operation before installing it, so I threw it into the freezer for a couple of hours. Took it out and saw the air passage was opened up more:
Next I let it warm up and checked that the air passage closed up. The FSM says it should be slightly open at 68 deg. It was a tad warmer than that here today, passage looks slightly open:
Pulled my old one, swapped this one in. Immediately noticed that my truck now has a cold idle, it has NEVER had one before, so I'm thrilled. Took a look at my old one and noticed it was closed all the way, all the time. I believe the little tab that moves the cam is broken. Glad I changed it.
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#8
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Running without the fpr vac hose won't have done any damage. I know because mine was unhooked for a good while without my knowing and it just made it harder to start. Got my injectors cleaned last week and the tech said they tested great. Fixing a vacuum leak and getting normal fuel pressure definitely won't hurt your situation though.
Glad you're giving in and calling 22re performance. They always give me tons of advice and I've only spent a few hundred with them.
Glad you're giving in and calling 22re performance. They always give me tons of advice and I've only spent a few hundred with them.
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So I called 22reperformance and went over everything. He thinks it's the fpr considering the pressure goes up into the 50s when I clamp the return line. They done sell the fpr and Toyota no longer makes it. I found one at lce and ordered it.
Fingers crossed this will fix my issues. I haven't taken off the iac yet but I did clean it when I installed the new motor. Anyway I will keep you all updated.
Thanks for all the help so far!!!
Fingers crossed this will fix my issues. I haven't taken off the iac yet but I did clean it when I installed the new motor. Anyway I will keep you all updated.
Thanks for all the help so far!!!
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ok so finally figured out what the problem was! this was after replacing my fpr and checking and rechecking everything to do with the fuel system. I still couldn't get it to run so I brought it to the toyota dealership thinking it was something bad. Turns out, when I replaced my power steering pump and no longer needed the vacuum lines, I plugged the one coming off the intake but I guess the vacuum nipple or whatever it's called rattled out and there was just a huge hole in the intake sucking in air. Capped it off and it's running great. There was also another small leak associated with the intake gasket so I'm going to install a new one. Always check the vacuum lines!!!! ugh thanks for all your help and suggestions
Last edited by Yont283; 08-14-2016 at 12:48 PM.
#11
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ok so finally figured out what the problem was! this was after replacing my fpr and checking and rechecking everything to do with the fuel system. I still couldn't get it to run so I brought it to the toyota dealership thinking it was something bad. Turns out, when I replaced my power steering pump and no longer needed the vacuum lines, I plugged the one coming off the intake but I guess the vacuum nipple or whatever it's called rattled out and there was just a huge hole in the intake sucking in air. Capped it off and it's running great. There was also another small leak associated with the intake gasket so I'm going to install a new one. Always check the vacuum lines!!!! ugh thanks for all your help and suggestions
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Whoa, yeah, a giant hole in the plenum would do it! Glad you got it sorted out, that's one of those problems that needs eyes in the engine bay rather than internet advice/guessing. I found many loose fittings and bolts when I began tinkering on my runner, but I'm surprised one that had just been assembled would do that. Especially by Putney's...
#13
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I'd consider blue locktite cause that area will never get over 300° and for easy disassembly in the future for cleaning/replacement. There's also a white high-temp locktite that is removable with hand tools if you expect up to 450°. I think the red stuff requires a torch to break it free, but correct me if I'm wrong.
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